Wednesday, January 9, 2013


Bar Beauvau – 4 Rue Beauvau (at Grand Hotel Beauvau Marseille Vieux Port); 011-33-04-9154-9100;; overlooks Vieux Port.
L’Interdit – 9 Rue Moliere; 011-33-6-5077-6758; very dangerous location; insider “real Marseille” place.

La Plage des Corbieres – Route Rove (Les Riaux); where French Riviera starts.

Grand Hotel Beauvau Marseille Vieux Port – 4 Rue Beauvau; 011-33-04-9154-9100;; elegant 4-star establishment in city center; decorated with Provencal fabrics & Empire or Napoleon III furniture.
Hotel Le Corbusier – 280 Boulevard Michelet; 011-33-4-9116-7800;; not fancy but worth visiting; reservations necessary at restaurant or staff gets snooty.
InterContinental Marseille - Hotel Dieu – 1 Place Daviel; 011-33-04-1342-4242;; in stately building dating from 18th Century; sleek rooms offer free Wi-Fi & flat-screen TVs with satellite channels, plus minibars & coffeemakers; some upgraded rooms feature terraces & suites add floor-to-ceiling windows & living areas; room service is available; indoor pool, spa & fitness room.
Mama Shelter Marseille – 64 Rue de la Loubiere; 011-33-4-8435-2000;; 127 room; hotel nestled in charming stone house cluster in Dame-du-Mont neighborhood; short walk to old port and other sights; rooms are either patio view, street view, or roof view; roof views best but rooms, though comfortable, lack warmth; no room service.
New Hotel of Marseille-Le Pharo – 71 Boulevard Charles Livon; 011-33-4-9131-5315;; 100-room hotel with South Beach style; herb gardens supply kitchen; wood-decked pool; quiet residential location; June-July or September-October best weather; Superior Rooms with terraces, like #412, are best.
Le Petit Nice Passedat – 17 Rue des Braves (Anse de Maldorme); 011-33-4-9159-2592;; luxurious residence opened in 1917 when Passédat family joined 2 villas in secluded area below street paralleling beach; rooms in main house are modern and even avant-garde (4 units inspired by Cubism); spacious Marina Wing offers rooms decorated in antique style, opening onto sea views.
La Residence du Vieux Port – 18 Quai du Port; 011-33-04-9191-9122;; chic harborside hotel; modern rooms come with free WiFi, flat-screen TVs & minibars; upgraded rooms add vivid, 1950s-era decor & most have balconies with city or water views; some suites have 18th Century furnishings; bright, bistro-style restaurant with terrace.

L’Aromat – 49 Rue Sainte; 011-33-4-9155-0906;; makes bouillabaisse burger; worth special trip.
Chez Etienne – 43 Rue de Lorette; 011-33-4-9154-7633; city’s best pizza.
Fonfon – 140 Vallon des Auffes; 011-33-4-9152-1438;; seafood, especially bouillabaisse.
Le Grain de Sel – 39 Rue de la Paix-Marcel-Paul; 011-33-4-9154-4730; bistro; inventive.
L’Interdit – 9 Rue Moliere; 011-33-6-5077-6758; very dangerous location; insider “real Marseille” place.
Le Mas – 4 Rue de Lulli (Opera); 011-34-4-9133-2590; Marseille institution; Provencal cooking.
Le Miramar – 12 Quai du Port (Vieux Port); 011-33-4-9191-4109;; bouillabaisse aficionados flock to this classic quayside restaurant; Marseille bouillabaisse charter founding member (specifies exactly what goes into dish); actually, 2 dishes: (1) saffron-tinted soup followed by (2) fish poached in soup; eaten with une rouille (cayenne, egg yolk, garlic, olive oil, and red chilies); version served here involves lots of labor and just as much seafood; chef Christian Buffa holds course on how to make every 3rd Thursday.
Paule et Kopa – 42 Place aux Huiles; 011-33-4-9133-2603; excellent calamari, pizza but more inventive fare, as well; try lemon verbena liqueur.
Le Petit Nice Passedat – 17 Rue des Braves (Anse de Maldorme); 011-33-4-9159-2592;; down alley and behind big gate, home of city’s most opulent bouillabaisse; glass-enclosed restaurant has view over coastal rocky islands and shore; Marseille’s 1st restaurant to be awarded 3 Michelin stars; emphasis on freshest seafood, including line-caught bass, bream, and Breton lobster.
Une Table, au Sud – 2 Quai du Port; 011-33-4-9190-6353;; Michelin-starred chef Lionel Lévy serves some of city’s most creative cuisine in discreet restaurant overlooking Vieux Port; menu changes each month, depending seasonal ingredients; signature dish, Bouille-Abaisse, always available: milkshake-like soup inspired by fish dish.

Le Panier – Marseille’s oldest neighborhood.
Notre-Dame de la Garde – Rue Fort du Sanctuaire; 011-33-4-9113-4080;; basilica.
Old Fisherman’s Market – Quai des Belges (1st Arrondissement);; enthralling, small fish market daily; Cours Julien hosts Wednesday-morning organic fruit and vegetable market and Aladdin’s cave bric-a-brac market every 2nd Sunday.
Vallon des Auffes Calanque – Bouches-du-Rhône; small harbor for fishing; picturesque, traditional, and typical.

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