Wednesday, January 9, 2013

AIX-EN-PROVENCE

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
La Rotonde – 2A Place Jeanne d’Arc; 011-33-4-4291-6170; larotonde-aix.com; pre-clubbing spot; cosmopolitans and mojitos.
Le Mistral – 3 Rue Frederic Mistral; 011-33-6-6746-8478; mistral-club.fr.
Les Deux Garcons – 53 Cours Mirabeau; 011-33-4-4226-0051; Edith Piaf, Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, Jean Paul Sartre – all visited premises; dates back to 1792; shaded by tall plane trees; outdoor café.



HOTELS
28 a Aix – 28 Rue du 4 Septembre; 011-33-44-254-8201; 28aaix.com; 4 bedroom guest house; exquisitely furnished and renovated, 17th Century mansion; little garden in back; very reasonable rates.
Hotel Cezanne – 40 Avenue Victor-Hugo; 011-33-44-291-1111; cezanne.hotelaix.com.
Hotel de France – 63 Rue Espariat; 011-33-4-4227-9015; hoteldefrance-aix.com; 27 rooms with rustic touches.
Hotel du Globe – 74 Cours Sextius; 011-33-4-4226-0358; hotelduglobe.com; 46 simple, clean rooms, friendly staff, good location (across street from city’s old center).
La Maison d’Aix – 25 Rue du 4 Septembre; 011-33-4-4253-7895; lamaisondaix.com; 4-room hideaway; in historic center’s heart; impeccably designed; large, comfortable soaking tubs, huge windows; great breakfasts.
Villa Gallici – 18 Avenue de la Violette; villagallici.com; 011-33-44-223-2923; 18th Century former home; excellent accommodations and meals.



RESTAURANTS
Chez Ferraud – 8 Rue du Puits Juif; 011-33-4-4263-0727; rustic dining room in ivy-draped building; try pistou soup, daube de boeuf, and other southern French classics; reasonably priced.
Le Passage – 10 Rue Villars; 011-33-4-4237-0900; le-passage.fr; live music and great food; modern French-Mediterranean cuisine.
Pierre Reboul – 11 Petite Rue St.-Jean; 011-33-4-4220-5826; restaurant-pierre-reboul.com; very Bulli-esque; 1 Michelin star.
Services
Thermes Sextius – 55 Avenue des Thermes; 011-33-4-4223-8182; thermes-sextius.com; vast modern spa built atop ancient baths (still visible through glass panels).



SHOPPING
La Compagnie de Provence – 63 Rue des Cordeliers; 011-33-4-4227-3741; lcdpmarseille.com; regional produce transformed into beauty products.
L’Esprit des Lieux en Provence – 10 Rue Gaston de Saporta; 011-33-4-4221-2074; el-decoration.com; Provence-style home accoutrements.



SIGHTS & SITES
Atelier Cezanne – 9 Avenue Paul Cézanne; 011-33-4-4221-0653; atelier-cezanne.com; Cezanne’s actual atelier.
Musee Granet – Place St. Jean de Malte; 011-33-4-4252-8832; museegranet-aixenprovence.com; where Picasso and his wife, Jacqueline Roque (and her daughter) lived, practically in Cezanne’s backyard; collection contains works by both, as well as Giacometti, Leger, and Mondrian; also houses French and northern Italian works from 14th-18th Centuries; also, in basement, dEntremont, archaeological site with Celtic-Ligurian sculptures.
Place Richelme – morning market.
Chateau de Vauvenargues – group bookings only through Musee Granet (above).
Fondation Vasarely – 1 Avenue Marcel Pagnol; 011-33-4-4220-0109; fondationvasarely.fr; opened in ‘70s by Victor Vasarely, Hungarian-born mastermind of Op Art movement.

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