Wednesday, January 9, 2013


La Rotonde – 2A Place Jeanne d’Arc; 011-33-4-4291-6170;; pre-clubbing spot; cosmopolitans and mojitos.
Le Mistral – 3 Rue Frederic Mistral; 011-33-6-6746-8478;
Les Deux Garcons – 53 Cours Mirabeau; 011-33-4-4226-0051; Edith Piaf, Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, Jean Paul Sartre – all visited premises; dates back to 1792; shaded by tall plane trees; outdoor café.

28 a Aix – 28 Rue du 4 Septembre; 011-33-44-254-8201;; 4 bedroom guest house; exquisitely furnished and renovated, 17th Century mansion; little garden in back; very reasonable rates.
Hotel Cezanne – 40 Avenue Victor-Hugo; 011-33-44-291-1111;
Hotel de France – 63 Rue Espariat; 011-33-4-4227-9015;; 27 rooms with rustic touches.
Hotel du Globe – 74 Cours Sextius; 011-33-4-4226-0358;; 46 simple, clean rooms, friendly staff, good location (across street from city’s old center).
La Maison d’Aix – 25 Rue du 4 Septembre; 011-33-4-4253-7895;; 4-room hideaway; in historic center’s heart; impeccably designed; large, comfortable soaking tubs, huge windows; great breakfasts.
Villa Gallici – 18 Avenue de la Violette;; 011-33-44-223-2923; 18th Century former home; excellent accommodations and meals.

Chez Ferraud – 8 Rue du Puits Juif; 011-33-4-4263-0727; rustic dining room in ivy-draped building; try pistou soup, daube de boeuf, and other southern French classics; reasonably priced.
Le Passage – 10 Rue Villars; 011-33-4-4237-0900;; live music and great food; modern French-Mediterranean cuisine.
Pierre Reboul – 11 Petite Rue St.-Jean; 011-33-4-4220-5826;; very Bulli-esque; 1 Michelin star.
Thermes Sextius – 55 Avenue des Thermes; 011-33-4-4223-8182;; vast modern spa built atop ancient baths (still visible through glass panels).

La Compagnie de Provence – 63 Rue des Cordeliers; 011-33-4-4227-3741;; regional produce transformed into beauty products.
L’Esprit des Lieux en Provence – 10 Rue Gaston de Saporta; 011-33-4-4221-2074;; Provence-style home accoutrements.

Atelier Cezanne – 9 Avenue Paul Cézanne; 011-33-4-4221-0653;; Cezanne’s actual atelier.
Musee Granet – Place St. Jean de Malte; 011-33-4-4252-8832;; where Picasso and his wife, Jacqueline Roque (and her daughter) lived, practically in Cezanne’s backyard; collection contains works by both, as well as Giacometti, Leger, and Mondrian; also houses French and northern Italian works from 14th-18th Centuries; also, in basement, dEntremont, archaeological site with Celtic-Ligurian sculptures.
Place Richelme – morning market.
Chateau de Vauvenargues – group bookings only through Musee Granet (above).
Fondation Vasarely – 1 Avenue Marcel Pagnol; 011-33-4-4220-0109;; opened in ‘70s by Victor Vasarely, Hungarian-born mastermind of Op Art movement.

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