Wednesday, January 9, 2013


Café Gnosa – 93 Lange Reihe (St. George); 011-49-40-243-034;; for breakfast; try “ethereal” cheesecake.
Messmer Momentum – 10 Am Kaiserkai; 011-49-40-7367-9000;; teahouse; sleek; overlooks canal.

Le Lion – 3 Rathausstrasse; 011-49-40-3347-5378;; cozy, stylish lounge near Colln’s, concealed behind ambiguously marked entrance; contemporary cocktails; make reservation well in advance.
20Up – 97 Bernhard-Nocht-Strasse, 20th Floor (at Empire Riverside Hotel); 011-49-40-311-190;; tremendous view overlooking Elbe River; from northeast corner, can see Reeperbahn (city’s redlight district).

Empire Riverside Hotel – 97 Bernhard-Nocht-Strasse; 011-49-40-311-190;
Hotel Atlantic Kempinski – 72-79 An der Alster; 011-49-40-288-8817;; short walk from train station; lake views; both contemporary and historic touches.
East Hotel – 31 Simon-von-Utrecht-Strasse; 011-49-40-309-930;; colorful style mash-up, making use of former iron foundry; 103 rooms, 4 bars, spa.
Hotel Hafen Hamburg – 9 Seewartenstrasse (St. Pauli); 011-49-40-311-130;; prime harborfront location; many rooms; affordable and comfortable.
25 Hours Hotel Hafencity – 5 Uberseeallee (Docklands); 011-49-40-2262-29590;; affordable; bland, red-brick façade masks quirky interior.

Bullerei – 34b Lagerstrasse; 011-49-40-3344-2110;; festive atmosphere, handsome crowd, meat-heavy menu (some fish); industrial chic atmosphere.
Colln’s – 1-5 Brodschrangen; 011-49-40-364-153;; Hamburg institution with colorful, tile floors, immaculately painted wainscoting, and timy rooms with only 1-3 tables each and doors that shut tightly between servers’ visits; you have button to buzz help; caviar and vodka are required; old-fashioned dining experience; great oysters and Dover sole.
Nil – 5-6 Neuer Pferdemarkt; 011-49-40-439-7823;; slow-food kitchen serving regional organic produce.
Schanzenstern – 12 Bartelsstrasse; 011-49-40-439-8441;; eco-conscious food.

SHOPPING – 19b Gauss Strasse; 011-49-40-1814-9236;; organic cotton tees and fashion.
Kingdrips – 27 Wohlwillstrasse; 011-49-40-5302-2655;; locally-designed, cotton tees.
Krauterhaus – 70 Lange Reihe; 011-49-40-249-356;; inadvertantly hilarious, New Age “redoubt”; spices and teas.
So Pure – 58 Schulterblatt; 011-49-40-4145-9383;; office wear.
Julia Starp – Stoffsuchtig, 83 Rothenbaumchaussee; 011-49-40-6364-4714;; organic silk dresses.

Alsterarkaden –; Venetian-style café and shops arcade.
Fischmarkt – at Elbe River and Grosse Elbstrasse; open-air, Sunday morning market.
Hafencity – urban construction project; 15 blocks repurposed docklands; now, stunning contemporary architecture; make sure to see shiplike Unilever building (1 Strandkai) and Elbphilharmonie, at Am Kaiserkai’s westernmost point (deliberately lopsided, wavy monument of what seems to be frosted glass).
Jungfernstieg – majestic thoroughfare that faces city’s central lake, Binnenalster.
Lange Reihe – St. George; more ethnically diverse, scruffier, cafe and shopping district.
Messmer Momentum – 10 Am Kaiserkai; 011-49-40-7367-9000;; tea museum; overlooks canal.
Miniatur Wunderland – 2-4 Kehrwieder; 011-49-40-300-6800;; eccentric museum; model train scenes.
Neuer Wall –; exclusive shopping street.
Rathaus – Rathausmarkt 1; 011-40-42-831-2409;; city’s architectural centerpiece; walk north from here to Jungfernstieg.
St. Michaelis Church – 1 Englische Planke; 011-49-40-376-780;; Baroque gem; rebuilt after WWII; colossal pipe organs; make sure to visit viewing platform in tower.

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