HAMBURG

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Café Gnosa – 93 Lange Reihe (St. George); 011-49-40-243-034; gnosa.de; for breakfast; try “ethereal” cheesecake.
●Messmer Momentum – 10 Am Kaiserkai; 011-49-40-7367-9000; messmer-momentum.de; teahouse; sleek; overlooks canal.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Le Lion – 3 Rathausstrasse; 011-49-40-3347-5378; lelion.net; cozy, stylish lounge near Colln’s, concealed behind ambiguously marked entrance; contemporary cocktails; make reservation well in advance.
●20Up – 97 Bernhard-Nocht-Strasse, 20th Floor (at Empire Riverside Hotel); 011-49-40-311-190; empire-riverside.de; tremendous view overlooking Elbe River; from northeast corner, can see Reeperbahn (city’s redlight district).



HOTELS
●Empire Riverside Hotel – 97 Bernhard-Nocht-Strasse; 011-49-40-311-190; empire-riverside.de.
●Hotel Atlantic Kempinski – 72-79 An der Alster; 011-49-40-288-8817; kempinski.atlantic.de; short walk from train station; lake views; both contemporary and historic touches.
●East Hotel – 31 Simon-von-Utrecht-Strasse; 011-49-40-309-930; east-hamburg.de; colorful style mash-up, making use of former iron foundry; 103 rooms, 4 bars, spa.
●Hotel Hafen Hamburg – 9 Seewartenstrasse (St. Pauli); 011-49-40-311-130; hotel-hafen-hamburg.de; prime harborfront location; many rooms; affordable and comfortable.
●25 Hours Hotel Hafencity – 5 Uberseeallee (Docklands); 011-49-40-2262-29590; 25hours-hotels.com; affordable; bland, red-brick façade masks quirky interior.



RESTAURANTS
●Bullerei – 34b Lagerstrasse; 011-49-40-3344-2110; bullerei.com; festive atmosphere, handsome crowd, meat-heavy menu (some fish); industrial chic atmosphere.
●Colln’s – 1-5 Brodschrangen; 011-49-40-364-153; coelln-restaurant.de; Hamburg institution with colorful, tile floors, immaculately painted wainscoting, and timy rooms with only 1-3 tables each and doors that shut tightly between servers’ visits; you have button to buzz help; caviar and vodka are required; old-fashioned dining experience; great oysters and Dover sole.
●Nil – 5-6 Neuer Pferdemarkt; 011-49-40-439-7823; restaurant-nil.de; slow-food kitchen serving regional organic produce.
●Schanzenstern – 12 Bartelsstrasse; 011-49-40-439-8441; schanzenstern.de; eco-conscious food.



SHOPPING
●fairliebt.com – 19b Gauss Strasse; 011-49-40-1814-9236; fairliebt.com; organic cotton tees and fashion.
●Kingdrips – 27 Wohlwillstrasse; 011-49-40-5302-2655; kingdrips.com; locally-designed, cotton tees.
●Krauterhaus – 70 Lange Reihe; 011-49-40-249-356; kraeuterhaus.net; inadvertantly hilarious, New Age “redoubt”; spices and teas.
●So Pure – 58 Schulterblatt; 011-49-40-4145-9383; sopurefashion.com; office wear.
●Julia Starp – Stoffsuchtig, 83 Rothenbaumchaussee; 011-49-40-6364-4714; www.juliastarp.de; organic silk dresses.



SIGHTS & SITES
●Alsterarkaden – hamburg.de/mellin-passage; Venetian-style café and shops arcade.
●Fischmarkt – at Elbe River and Grosse Elbstrasse; open-air, Sunday morning market.
●Hafencity – urban construction project; 15 blocks repurposed docklands; now, stunning contemporary architecture; make sure to see shiplike Unilever building (1 Strandkai) and Elbphilharmonie, at Am Kaiserkai’s westernmost point (deliberately lopsided, wavy monument of what seems to be frosted glass).
●Jungfernstieg – majestic thoroughfare that faces city’s central lake, Binnenalster.
●Lange Reihe – St. George; more ethnically diverse, scruffier, cafe and shopping district.
●Messmer Momentum – 10 Am Kaiserkai; 011-49-40-7367-9000; messmer-momentum.de; tea museum; overlooks canal.
●Miniatur Wunderland – 2-4 Kehrwieder; 011-49-40-300-6800; miniatur-wunderland.com; eccentric museum; model train scenes.
●Neuer Wall – neuerwall-hamburg.de; exclusive shopping street.
●Rathaus – Rathausmarkt 1; 011-40-42-831-2409; hamburg.de/rathaus; city’s architectural centerpiece; walk north from here to Jungfernstieg.
●St. Michaelis Church – 1 Englische Planke; 011-49-40-376-780; st-michaelis.de; Baroque gem; rebuilt after WWII; colossal pipe organs; make sure to visit viewing platform in tower.