Wednesday, November 2, 2011


(does not include Seattle)

Great Washington State Birding Trail – 5902 Lake Washington Boulevard South (Seattle, Audubon Washington); 206-652-2444, ext. 101;‎; 6 routes include Cascade, Palouse to Pines, Coulee Corridor, Southwest Loop, Olympic Loop, Sun & Sage Loop & Puget Loop.

Neah Bay
Sights & Sites
Cape Flattery – 1880 Bayview Avenue (Makah Cultural & Research Center); 360-645-2711 (same);; managed by Makah Indian Nation; known for its sunsets, nature sanctuary where Strait of Juan de Fuca meets Pacific Ocean; seabirds (guillemots, murres, oyster-catchers & puffins), whales & sea lions, too; well-maintained trail leads through wet areas, along coastal cliffs & across boardwalks; start through mist-drenched forest of Sitka spruce, utilizing boardwalks & steps, drop to promontory series that provides great vistas of rugged Cape Flattery; at .75 mile mark is viewing platform from which can see Cape Flattery lighthouse on Tatoosh Island; sea otters in protected coves & whales farther out; area often draped in fog (receives over 100" annual rainfall); directly offshore, Tatoosh Island named for onetime Makah chief; now only sea lions, seals & seabirds live on Tatoosh.

Port Angeles (includes Forks, Neah Bay, Olympic Park & Quinault)
Kalaloch Lodge – 1571 Highway 101 (Forks); 360-962-3391 or 866-875-8456;; national park system’s only oceanfront accommodations; cabin cluster and cedar-shingled lodge perched on grassy bluff above Pacific Ocean; wide sand beaches stretch north and south from lodge; rooms in old lodge least expensive and oceanview bluff cabins most in demand; log cabins across street from bluff cabins don’t have knockout views; make reservations 4-11 months in advance.
Lake Crescent Lodge – 416 Lake Crescent Road; 360-928-3211 or 800-562-6672;; built in 1916; basic.
Lake Quinault Lodge – 345 South Shore Road (Quinault); 360-288-2900 or 800-562-6672;; on Lake Quinault’s shores in park’s southwest corner; imposing; huge, old cedars and firs; Adirondack chairs on deck command lawn view; small rooms in historic main lodge; modern rooms with TVs and small balconies, as well as rooms with fireplaces recently renovated (as are many Lakeside rooms); annex rooms are least attractive, but have large bathtubs; creative dining room; lodge offers lawn games and rainforest tours.

Sights & Sites
Makah Museum – 1880 Bayview Avenue (Neah Bay); 360-645-2711;; artifacts from Makah village partly buried by mudslide at Lake Ozette around 1750, providing snapshot of pre-contact tribal life; includes replica long house, canoes, basketry, and whaling and fishing gear; to see site itself, go to Olympic National Park’s Ozette campground and follow 3.5 mile trail (mostly boardwalk) that leads to Cape Alava beach; less than mile north of trail end is reproduction longhouse that marks excavation site; on beach, about mile south of trail end, petroglyphs.
Olympic National Park – 600 East Park Avenue (Port Angeles); 360-565-3130;; start in mountains (Hurricane Ridge & Deer Park can be reached by car), which offer terrific Olympic Range views; make sure to see Sol Duc Falls.

Port Townsend
Fat Smitty’s – 282624 US 101; 360-385-4099; serves as outdoor carved statue gallery (giant multi-tiered burger, claymation California Raisin, lady on pie slice); burger joint.

Copalis Beach (includes Copalis Crossing)
Iron Springs Resort – 3707 Washington 109; 360-276-4230;; for over 60 years, where families pack up dog, kids, and supplies for week away from it all; wake up each morning to foggy mess, head down to beach to clam, fish, or just wander, or stay up on hillside amid windblown trees with book, view, and sometimes fire; in 2010, massive renovation has brought cabins into 21st Century, while retaining original charm; upside-down boat ushers guests in from highway upon arrival; cinnamon rolls prepared by Seattle’s Parisian-style bakery, Belle Epicurean, in resort’s store for you to bake fresh in morning; 24 cabins perched on hillside overlooking Pacific Ocean; interiors characterized by natural palette and reclaimed materials; environment is comfortable, cozy, and well-suited to surroundings; unfinished wood floors, textured reclaimed paneling, chairs upholstered with vintage Pendelton wool blankets, and tables created from property-sourced fallen wood; ample windows; lithographs from 60s-70s by local artists, Walton Butts and Elton Bennett in almost every cabin (unsung heros who recorded Pacific Northwest beauty).

Green Lantern Tavern – 3119 Washington 109; 360-289-2297;; great hamburgers and fried clams.

Voss Acres – 1683 Ocean Beach Road (Copalis Crossing); 360-591-1287;; produce market.

Whidbey Island
Inn at Langley – 400 1st Street; 360-221-3033; innatlangley; luxury accommodations; cedar Craftsman inn on bluff above Puget Sound; watch whales and bald eagles; zen-inspired rooms with whirlpools.

Willows Lodge – 14580 Northeast 145th Street; 425-424-3900 or 877-424-3930;; in wine country; rustic and sumptuous; 2 distinguished restaurants within walking distance; enormous fireplaces and huge sunken tubs.

Barking Frog – 14580 Northeast 145th Street (at Willows Lodge); 425-424-2999;; northwest cuisine.
Herbfarm – 14590 Northeast 145th Street; 425-485-5300;; northwest cuisine.

Bainbridge Island
Fuurin-Oka – 12580 Vista Drive, NE; 360-319-5083;; private cottage that has authentic ryokan details and retreat-like perks.

Sights & Sites
Bloedel Reserve – 7571 Northeast Dolphin Drive; 206-842-7631;; bird refuge, gardens, and woods.

Cedar Creek Treehouse – Nisqually River Valley (10 miles from Nisqually River entrance to Mount Rainier National Park); 360-569-2991;; earth-friendly, privately owned and operated, mountain retreat, located 10 miles (by car, 1 mile as crow flies) from Nisqually River entrance to Mount Rainier National Park, and bordering Gifford Pinchot National Forest; unique treehouse vacation rental lodging with in “bed & breakfast” cottage 50' up 200-year old western Red Cedar tree; Treehouse Observatory has spectacular mountain views 100' high in nearby fir tree.

San Juan Islands (includes Puget Sound)
Lopez Island
Sights & Sites
Watmough Bay Preserve –; dramatic cliffs and towering old growth Douglas firs frame stunning south end; 70' beach section insures public access; spectacular trail.

Lummi Island
Willows Inn – 2579 West Shore Drive; 360-758-2620 or 888-294-2620;; historic Bed-&-Breakfast retreat; among most sought after agritourism destinations in San Juan islands; like European auberge planted amid stunning marine views; easily reached by 6-minute ferry ride.

Willows Inn – 2579 West Shore Drive; 360-758-2620;; authentic, organic farm-to-table dining; chef Blaine Wetzel is from Copenhagen’s Noma.

Orcas Island
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Brown Bear Baking – 29 North Beach Road (Eastsound); 360-855-7456;; kouign-amann.
Roses Bakery & Cafe – 382 Prune Alley (Eastsound); 360-376-4292;; island institution since 1991, now in old fire station (next to Library Park); artisan breads baked in-house.

Bars & Nightclubs
Barnacle – 249 Prune Alley (Eastsound); 206-679-5683;; best cocktails on island.

Inn at Ship Bay – 326 Olga Road (Ship Bay, 1 mile out of Eastsound); 360-376-5886 or 877-276-7296;; 11 rooms at bluff top with unobstructed southern views over Ship Bay waters; built around 1869 farmhouse & set amidst heirloom apple, pear & plum orchards.
Rosario Resort & Spa – 1400 Rosario Road (Eastsound); 360-376-2222;; book recently renovated Residences at Rosario.
Turtleback Farm Inn – 1981 Crow Valley Road (Eastsound); 360-376-4914;; 1800s farmhouse & barnlike lodging offering antiques-furnished rooms, valley views & breakfast.
West Beach Resort – 190 Waterfront Way (Eastsound); 360-376-2240;; 21 rustic cottages, constructed literally on pebble beach.

Hogstone’s Wood Oven – 460 Main Street (Eastsound); 360-376-4647;; pizza.
Inn at Ship Bay – 326 Olga Road (Ship Bay, 1 mile out of Eastsound); 360-376-5886;; locavore eatery serving creative, sustainable seafood fare in upscale setting with water views.
Roses Bakery & Cafe – 382 Prune Alley (Eastsound); 360-376-4292;; full selection cheeses & fine wines, gourmet groceries, kitchenware, chocolates & more.

Shearwater Kayaks – 138 North Beach Road (Eastsound); 360-376-4699;

Black Dog Farm – 1725 Mt. Baker Road (Eastsound; also produce stand off Enchanted Forest Road); 360-376-4073;; organic farm.
Buck Bay Shellfish Farm – 117 E.J. Young Road (Olga); 360-376-5280;; gourmet shellfish & other food products.
Girl Meets Dirt – Minnow Creek Lane (Eastsound);; fruit preserves.
Roses Bakery & Cafe – 382 Prune Alley (Eastsound); 360-376-4292;; island institution since 1991, now in old fire station (next to Library Park); fresh seasonal local produce, baked goods, soups, salads, and sandwiches.

Sights & Sites
Coffelt Farm – 1071 Crow Valley Road (Eastsound); 360-376-3410;; spans northern reach of Orcas Island’s scenic Crow Valley; 185-acre mosaic of pasture & marshland fringed with mature conifer forest extends to lower slopes of Turtleback Mountain Preserve, creating among most beloved vistas in San Juan County; after 60 years of farming this land, Vern and Sidney Coffelt sold to San Juan County Land Bank, accomplishing important element of Land Bank’s mandate to preserve working agricultural lands; in January 2011, operation of farm transferred to small, Orcas Island-based non-profit, Coffelt Farm Stewards (CFS); mission is to demonstrate sustainable, island-scale agricultural practices, promote environmental stewardship, and provide opportunities for education & research, while honoring Orcas Island’s rural heritage.
Moran State Park – 3572 Olga Road (Olga); 360-376-6173;; encompassing over 5K acres of forest (much of it old growth) with some 30 miles hiking trails; largest public recreation area in San Juan Islands; boating, hiking, biking, horse riding & camping; Mount Constitution (elevation 2.5K' is focal point; view from top considered to be among best panoramic views in world; road & hiking trails lead to top; observation tower, built in 1930s, patterned after 12th Century Caucasian towers.
Obstruction Pass State Park – 3572 Olga Road (Olga); 360-902-8844;; absolutely beautiful & worth special trip.

Puget Sound
Hood Canal.

San Juan Island
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Cafe Demeter – 80 Nichols Street (Friday Harbor); 360-370-5443;; try twice-baked almond croissant with your coffee.

Bars & Nightclubs
Cask & Schooner – 1 Front Street (Friday Harbor); 360-378-2922;
San Juan Island Brewery – 410 A Street (Friday Harbor); 360-378-2017;

Bird Rock Hotel – 35 1st Street (Friday Harbor); 360-378-5848;; only 3-minute walk from Friday Harbor Ferry Dock, this refined hotel has polished quarters ranging from snug rooms with shared bathrooms to suites with private patios, whirlpool tubs, gas fireplaces & en suite facilities; all feature luxe bedding, free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs & iPod docks; many offer harbor views; continental breakfast with homemade scones, as well as freshly baked afternoon cookies & loaner bikes; courtyard patio with shaded tables; guests have access to nearby fitness center with heated indoor pool, whirlpool tub & sauna.

Coho Restaurant – 120 Nichols Street (Friday Harbor); 360-378-6330;; set in historic Craftsman House; Pacific cuisine with Mediterranean flair.
Westcott Bay Shellfish Co. – 904 Westcott Drive (Friday Harbor); 360-378-2489;; barbecued oysters out on water.

Maya’s Legacy Whale Watching – 1997 Mitchell Bay Road (Friday Harbor); 360-378-7996;; personalized eco-adventures from best location to experience orca whales in wild; recreational, engaging & informative; family owned.

Griffin Bay Bookstore – 155 Spring Street (Friday Harbor); 360-378-5511;; well-curated, independent book emporium.

Sights & Sites
Lime Kiln Point State Park – 1567 Westside Road (Friday Harbor); 360-378-2044;; 36-acre, day-use park set on Island’s west side; considered among best places in world to view whales from land-based facility.
Pelindaba Lavender Farm – 45 Hawthorne Lane (Friday Harbor); 360-378-4248;; worth visit for scent alone.
San Juan Island National Park – 360-378-2240;; make sure to visit “Mitchell Hill,” newly acquired acreage; made up of British and US army camps dating to Pig Wars; these camps set up in 1859 in response to border dispute triggered by pig killing; camps occupied for 12 years, until Treaty of Washington, negotiated by German Kaiser Wilhelm I; British abandoned their camp in November 1872; American camp disbanded in July 1874; British Camp is only US national park portion commemorating British military site and only 1 that flies British Union flag.
Whale Museum – 62 1st Street (Friday Harbor); 360-378-4710;

Skagit Valley (includes Arlington, Bellingham, Bow, Darrington, Edison, Mount Vernon & Samish Bay)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Breadfarm – 5766 Cains Court (Edison); 360-766-4065;; handcrafted rustic breads and unforgettable cookies.

Bars & Nightclubs
Old Edison Tavern – 5829 Cains Court (Edison); 360-766-6266;; popular dive bar.

Edison Café – 5797 Main Street (Bow); 360-766-6960; try French toast.
Old Edison Tavern – 5829 Cains Court (Edison); 360-766-6266;; dive bar with good food.
Rhododendron Cafe – 5521 Chuckanut Drive (Bow); 360-766-6667;; locally-sourced, excellent food; try grilled filet mignon with brandy mustard sauce.

Snow Goose Produce – 15170 Fir Island Road (Mount Vernon); 360-445-6908;; organic produce.
Slough Food – 5766 Cains Court, Suite B (Edison); 360-766-4458;; gourmet market.
Taylor Shellfish Farms – 2182 Chuckanut Drive (Bow); 360-766-6002;; open to public.
Yarmuth Farm Cheese – 39911 East Whitehorse Drive (Arlington); 360-436-0727;; famous for goat cheese.

Sights & Sites
Larrabee State Park – 245 Chuckanut Drive (Bellingham); 888-226-7688; 2 fresh water lakes, coves, and tidal pools.

Whoopemup Hollow Cafe – 120 Main Street; 509-337-9000; home-cooking; must try Aunt Luella’s Chocolate Coca-Cola Cake.

Walla Walla (includes LaCrosse & Snoqualmie)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Coffee Perk – 4 South 1st Avenue; 509-526-0636;
Colville Street Patisserie – 40 South Colville Street; 509-301-7289;

Abeja – 2014 Mill Creek Road; 509-526-1234;; inn and highly-regarded winery in old farmhouse.
Salish Lodge & Spa – 6501 Railroad Avenue (Snoqualmie); 425-888-2556 or 800-272-5474;; 30 minutes east of downtown Seattle; located above 270' falls; rafting on nearby river; tremendous views.

26Brix Restaurant – 207 West Main Street; 509-526-4075; seafood emphasis; top-trained chef.
Creektown Cafe – 1129 South Avenue; 509-522-4777; arbor-shaded patio; burgers, quiche, and peach pie.
Saffron Mediterranean – 125 West Alder Street; 509-525-2112; tapas; faultless Mediterranean food.
Whitehouse-Crawford – 55 West Cherry Street; 509-525-2222; in 1904 planing mill with original brick and red-fir floor; try anything with peanut mole sauce.

Sights & Sights
City Library – 238 East Alder Street; 509-527-4550;; in front is statue, Matilda on Her Way to Market (2003) by Nano Lopez, Bogotá native; truly extraordinary work of art with beautiful & odd details, both large & tiny.
Palouse Fallas – Palouse Falls Road (LaCrosse); 360-902-8844;; Washington’s highest falls with circular, deep pool at bottom.

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