Wednesday, November 2, 2011

TUNISIA

DJERBA ISLAND
Hotels
Dar Dhiafa – Erriadh; 011-216-75-671-166; hoteldardhiafa.com; Tunisia’s 1st proper boutique hotel; 1-story, white & buttercream walls, with honeysuckle vines pouring out of terra cotta pots; 14 rooms around 5 courtyards (all with beamed ceilings); stone platform beds; 2 plunge pools flanked by shady loggias and quiet alcoves; ask for Suite Calife.

EL JEM
Sights & Sites
Roman Amphitheater – El Mahdia; whc.unesco.org/en/list/38; UNESCO World Heritage Site; best preserved Roman site in Africa; 3rd largest in Roman world.

METLAOUI
Sights & Sites
Lezard Rouge – historic Tunisian train, once Tunis Bey's property, now used by tourists; runs from Metlaoui to Redeyef and passes through Selja Gorge, taking some 40 minutes.

SFAX
Restaurants
Restaurant Baghdad – 63 Avenue Farhat Hached; for brik.
Shopping
Patisserie Masmoudi – Rue Dr. Ahmed Sekelli; 011-216-74-405-330; www.masmoudi.com; for baklava.
Sights & Sites
Archaeology Museum – Avenue Habib Bourguiba (Hotel de Ville, ground floor); exhibits include Punic, Roman, and Byzantine antiquities; also animal, hunting, and marine mosaics from Thaenae, Taparura, and La Skhira, including Daniel in Lions' Den (5th-6th Century) and Ennius Surrounded by Muses (3rd Century).

SIDI BOU SAID (includes La Marsa)
Hotels
Dar Said – Rue Toumi; 011-216-71-729-666; darsaid.com/tn; beautiful and luxurious.
Shopping
Galerie Marsa – 2 Place El Saf (La Marsa); 011-216-71-740-572; www.galerielmarsa.com; art gallery.
Librairie Espace d'Art Mille Feuilles – 99 Avenue Bourguiba; 011-216-71-744-229; bookstore (1st floor) and art gallery (2nd floor); dynamic place that holds literary meetings, cultural debates, and books signing sessions.

SOUSSE
Restaurants
Café des Nomades – Rue Ibn Rachik (Medina); roof terrace.
Sights & Sites
Dar Essid – 65 Rue du Remparts Nord (Medina); 011-216-73-220-529; small, private museum in quiet medina part, occupying beautiful old home, furnished in well-to-do 19th Century style; plaque in courtyard reveals that house built in 928, making it among oldest in medina; Andalusian tiled façades and items ranging from European antique furniture to traditional perfume bottles; upstairs area is old servant's quarters; pleasant café with splendid panoramic views.

TOZEUR
Hotels
Dar Hi Hotel – Quartier Essaouia (Nefta); 011-216-76-432-779; dar-hi.net; small eco-hotel whose rooms have stone turrets, caves, and hamman fed by under-ground spring.

TUNIS
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
La Brasserie – Rue du Lac Turkana; 011-216-71-961-951; for coffee and pastries.
Hotels
Dar el Medina – 64 Rue Sidi Ben Arous; 011-216-71-563-022; darelmedina.com; comfortable and gorgeous 12-room house; 1st choice hotel in Tunis.
Tunisia Palace Hotel – 13 Avenue de France; 011-216-71-242-700; goldenyasmin.com; impeccably restored bank building.
Residence Tunis – Les Côtes de Carthage; 011-216-71-910-101; theresidence.com/tunis.
Restaurants
Le Bouef sur Le Toit – Avenue Fattouma Bourguiba; 011-216-71-764-807; leboeufsurletoit.com; bar-restaurant.
La Brasserie – Rue du Lac Turkana; 011-216-71-961-951; for coffee and pastries.
Dar El Jeld – 5-10 Rue Dar El Jeld; 011-216-71-560-916; dareljeld.tourism.tn.
Le Rest’o – Rue Mendes, Villa Didon (Carthage Byrsa); 011-216-71-733-433; resto-tunisie.com.
Neptune – 2 Rue ibn Chabbat (Carthage); 011-216-71-731-456; open-air dining; kosher.

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