Wednesday, November 2, 2011


Sights & Sites
Rhode Island Coastal Birding Trail – 1401 Hope Street (Bristol, Audubon Environmental Education Center); 401-245-7500; or; stops include: Quonochontaug Breachway (Charlestown, best birding all seasons but Winter, follow Route 1 to West Beach Roadd. in Charlestown, take West Beach Road to terminus at dirt road that accesses to state operated Quonochontaug Breachway Boating & Fishing Area, park at far end dirt road near boat launch & explore from there; Burlingame State Park/Kimball Wildlife Refuge (Charlestown, best birding in Spring & Summer, from Route 1 Southbound take exit for Burlingame State Park Picnic Area (not Campground), will be on Prosser Trail, left at Picnic Area sign & go to parking lot); Ninigret National Wildlife Refuge/Ninigret Park (Charlestown, best birding in Spring & Fall, west refuge parking area reached from Route 1 in Charleston, northbound lanes, east area farther on in this discussion); Trustom Pond National Wildlife Refuge (South Kingstown, best birding is all seasons, from northbound Route 1 take Moonstone Beach Road Exit in South Kingstown, follow 1 mile to intersection with Matunuck Schoolhouse Road, turn right & look for entrance to visitor parking lot about 1 mile in on left); Charlestown Breachway (Charlestown, best birding all seasons, from Route 1 northbound take Downtown Charlestown exit (look for Tim Horton’s Restaurant beyond ramp), go to service road end & turn left on Post Road (Route 1A), take Post Road to 1st intersection & turn right on Narrow Lane, go to end of Narrow Lane & left on Matunuck Schoolhouse Road, 1st right on Charlestown Beach Road, 1 mile across bridge connecting Ninigret Pond & Green Hill Pond, continue to follow road as it takes sharp right turn & approaches breachway entrance & parking area (Kayaks can be rented Kayak Centre on Charlestown Beach Road by Ninigret-Green Hill Pond bridge)); Burlingame Management Area (Charlestown, best birding in Spring & Summer, take Route 1 South to Route 216, turn right & follow Route 216 North about 1.5 miles to Buckeye Brook Road, right & follow Buckeye Brook Road, through sharp left turn & across Buckeye Brook, after you cross brook & start uphill, watch for small parking lot on left); Carolina Management Area (Richmond, take Route 1 Northbound to Route 2 intersection, go north on Route 2 to Route 112, north on Route 112 through intersection with Route 91 in village of Carolina, after crossing river, take next left on Pine Hill Road, about 1 mile in on your left is small parking area for 1st of 2 trails that lead into Carolina Management Area.

Little Compton
Stone House – 122 Sakonnet Point Road; 401-635-2222;; lovely, historic seaside retreat; 13 guestrooms in mainhouse and barn; try to get Plover Suite in barn; idyllic.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Franklin Spa – 229 Spring Street; 401-847-3540; down-to-earth diner with red vinyl booths.
Bars & Nightclubs
5th Element – 111 Broadway Avenue; 401-619-2552;; dancing; nondescript lounge and restaurant is local hangout who come for quality pub food; on Friday nights, tables are moved and DJ performs.
Fluke – 41 Bowen’s Wharf; 401-849-7778;; nice place for sunset cocktail while watching boats slide under Newport Bridge; bar is in attic-like space on 3rd floor; try Fluke Sunset.
Pour Judgement – 32 Broadway; 401-619-2115;; impressive beer list; crowd includes officers from nearby Naval War College and traveling yacht crews.
White Horse Tavern – 26 Marlborough Street; 401-849-3600;; dark gray and maroon walls, low ceilings, oil lanterns, and wooden beams; built in 1673; self-proclaimed, oldest tavern in America; good food; try lobster macaroni and cheese.
1st (Easton’s) Beach – Memorial Boulevard; 401-846-1389; parking fees.
2nd (Sachuest) Beach – Purgatory Road; 401-849-2822; parking fee.
3rd Beach – east along 3rd Beach Road (Middletown); 401-849-2822; parking by permit.
Reject’s Beach – on corner of Bellevue and Ocean Drive (near Rough Point); no parking.
Admiral Fitzroy Inn – 398 Thames Street; 401-848-8000 or 866-848-8780;; former convent turned into 18-room inn.
Castle Hill Inn & Resort – 590 Ocean Drive; 401-849-3800 or 888-466-1355;; on 40-acre peninsula, at Newport’s Ocean Drive west end; consists of Agassiz Mansion, private Harbor Houses, Swiss-style Chalet with adjoining Terrace, and beach houses and cottages, all along coastline; also on property is lighthouse reached by secluded walking trail, which continues to private beach.
Chanler Hotel – 117 Memorial Boulevard; 401-847-1300;
Cliffside Inn – 2 Seaview Avenue; 401-847-1811 or 800-845-1811;
Forty-One Degrees North – 351 Thames Street; 401-846-8018;; marina complex resort; 28 rooms for savvy guests; guests issued iPad on checking in; 2 restaurants.
Francis Malbone House – 392 Thames Street; 401-846-0392 or 800-846-0392;
Vanderbilt Grace – 41 Mary Street; 401-846-6200 or 888-826-4255;; former Vanderbilt mansion; indoor and outdoor pools; 33 suites.
Asterisk Restaurant – 599 Thames Street; 401-841-8833;; contemporary French food.
Black Pearl – 10 West Pelham Street; 401-846-5264;; among Newport’s most popular restaurants; seafood.
Castle Hill – 590 Ocean Drive; 401-849-3800;; fine dining.
Cooke House – 26 Bannister’s Wharf; 401-849-2900;; legendary casual fare.
5th Element – 111 Broadway Avenue; 401-619-2552;; nondescript lounge and restaurant is local hangout who come for quality pub food; no dinner served on Friday nights.
Flo’s Clam Shack – 4 Wave Avenue;; New England classic looking over First Beach.
Fluke – 41 Bowen’s Wharf; 401-849-7778;
Franklin Spa – 229 Spring Street; 401-847-3540; down-to-earth diner with red vinyl booths; great lobster benedict.
Mooring – 1 Sayer’s Wharf; 401-846-2260;; former “Station 6” clubhouse for New York Yacht Club; try brown paper bag of crab, lobster, and shrimp doughnuts.
Ocean Breeze Café – 580 Thames Street; 401-849-1750; casual food.
Perro Salado – 19 Charles Street; 401-619-4777;; Mexican food; surprisingly good.
Salvation Café – 140 Broadway; 401-847-2620;; back patio, tiki bar, and great desserts.
Scales & Shells – 527 Thames Street; 401-846-3474;; seafood; dinner only.
Tallulah on Thames – 464 Thames Street; 401-849-2433;; reservations necessary; unpretentious, 10-table dining room with creative and homey cooking and feel.
Tucker’s Bistro – 150 Broadway; 401-846-3449;; dimly lit gem of romantic restaurant.
22 Bown’s Wine Bar & Grill – Bowen’s Wharf; 401-841-8884;; chops and steaks.
White Horse Tavern – 26 Marlborough Street; 401-849-3600;; open since 1673; typical Newport colonial-style structure.
Yesterdays and The Place – 28 Washington Square; 401-847-0116;; brewpub.
Classic Cruises – Bannister’s Wharf; 401-847-0298;; bay tours in former rum-smuggling yacht and/or 72' schooner.
Ten Speed Spokes – 18 Elm Street; 401-847-5609;; bicycle rentals.
Clarke Cooke House Candy Store – 26 Bannister’s Wharf; 401-849-2900;
La Maison de Coco – 28 Bellevue Avenue; 401-845-2626;; high-end, tea-enfused truffles, and other chocolates.
Newport Chocolates – 82 Williams Street; 401-841-8975;
Newport Wine Cellar – 24 Bellevue Avenue; 401-619-3966;
Le Petit Gourmet – 26 Bellevue Avenue; 401-619-3882; artisanal cheeses and local Aquidneck honey.
Sights & Sites
Belcourt Castle – 657 Bellevue Avenue; 401-846-0669;; Oliver Hazard Perry Belmont’s (Belmont Stakes founder’s son) former summer cottage, constructed 1891-94; in Gilded Age, noted for extensive carriage and stable areas; Belmont, still bachelor during construction, desired this 50K' square, 60 room summer villa to be based on Louis XIII hunting lodge at Versailles; Belcourt Castle is 3rd largest mansion in Newport, after Breakers and Ochre Court.
Bellevue Avenue – notable for ornamental landscaping; can ride bike along to Atlantic Ocean and visit Rough Point.
Breakers – 44 Ochre Point Avenue; 401-847-1000;; grandest Newport summer “cottages” and symbol of Vanderbilt family’s financial and social preeminence during turn of century America.
Fort Adams State Park – Eisenhower House, 1 Lincoln Drive; 401-841-0707;; make sure to visit Yachting Museum.
Green Animals Topiary Garden – Cory’s Lane (Portsmouth); 401-683-1267;
Marble House – 596 Bellevue Avenue; 401-847-1000;; built between 1888-1892 for William K. Vanderbilt (Commodore’s grandson and Cornelius II’s brother) as summer “cottage.”
Newport Distilling Company (Coastal Extreme Brewing Co.) – 293 J.T. Connell Road; 401-849-5232;; in 1769, with 22 distilleries, Newport was world’s rum capital; by 1869, last distillery had closed; this is 1st to open since; offers tours.
Norman Bird Sanctuary – 583 3rd Beach Road (Middletown); 401-846-2577;; hike trail to “Hanging Rock”; check out “Barn Museum” for excellent taxidermy.
Jane Pickens Theater – 49 Touro Street; 401-846-5252;; films.
Rough Point – 680 Bellevue Avenue; 401-849-7300;; in 1894, Vanderbilts begin renting Rough Point to summer guests; “Tinplate King” William Bateman Leeds, Sr., rents in 1904-1905; he purchases 10-acre estate in 1906; after he dies in 1910, his wife, Nancy Leeds remains owner until 1922; their son, William Bateman Leeds, Jr., marries Russia Princess Xenia Georgievna and sells house to James Buchanan Duke, electric power and tobacco entrepreneur and his 2nd wife Nanaline; James died in 1925, bequeathing estate to only child, 12-year-old Doris Duke; Rough Point becomes 1 of her prize properties; spends her summers there but after 1938 New England Hurricane (that devastates RI) and WWII, her visits less frequent; in 1950s, she empties Rough Point of all furnishings; in 1962, after Nanaline’s death, she again becomes frequent visitor; Rough Point reopened in 1962; in 1966, most controversial event in her entire life occurred at estate; she and her interior designer, Eduardo Tirella, leaving Rough Point by station wagon; when Tirella left car to open front gates, she slid over to driver’s seat to pull car out gates and wait for Tirella to close them; accelerating station wagon, Duke caught Tirella and dragged him across street where crushed against tree, instantly killing him; death recorded as accident; during Hurricane Bob in 1991, solarium serves as shelter for Princess and Baby, Duke’s 2 pet Bactrian camels (gifts from billionaire Saudi arms-dealer and businessman Adnan Khashoggi.
Thames Street – Newport’s main tourist strip with bars, boutiques, and restaurants.

Village Haven Restaurant – 90 School Street; 401-762-4242;; open for 30 years; ordinary in appearance; good comfort food; try roast chicken.

Wright’s Farm Restaurant – 84 Inman Road; 401-769-2856;; feels like theme park; large motel or conference center atmosphere; excellent chicken dinners and comfort food.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Seven Stars Bakery – 820 Hope Street; 401-521-2200;; award-winning, artisan bakery.
Seven Stars Bakery – 342 Broadway; 401-521-2200;; award-winning, artisan bakery.
White Electric Coffee – 711 Westminster Street; 401-453-3007;; has pastries, as well as “potent” coffee.
Bars & Nightclubs
AS220 FOO(d) – 115 Empire Street; 401-831-3663;; restaurant run by non-profit, AS220; art studio, bar, gallery, music venue, and restaurant; try house-infused vodkas (apricot sage and maple-pumpkin).
Avery – 18 Luongo Memorial Square (Federal Hill, on side street and easy to miss because no sign); 401-351-5492;; dimly lit, art nouveau “vixen” pictures; looks like yacht interior.
Cook & Brown Public House – 959 Hope Street; 401-273-7275;; much-hyped craft cocktail venue.
Dorrance – 60 Dorrance Street; 401-521-6000;; architecturally splendid (stained glass windows, gilded candelabra, and elaborate, cake-frosting moulding); cocktails.
E&O Tap – 289 Knight Street (Federal Hill, on side street); 401-454-4827;; raucous dive bar with 16 tap beers.
Salon – 57 Eddy Street; 401-865-6330;; pinball, ping-pong, and 80s music, along with dance floor.
Tini – 200 Washington Street; 401-383-2400;; good bar food.
Dean Hotel – 122 Fountain Street; 401-455-3326;; 52 rooms in former brothel; close to RISD and Brown; boutique.
Renaissance Providence Hotel – 5 Avenue of Arts; 401-919-5000;; former 1920s Masonic temple with contemporary interior; some rooms overlook Rhode Island Statehouse; affordable.
Abyssinia – 333 Wickenden Street; 401-454-1412;; Ethiopian food; offers take-out.
AS220 FOO(d) – 115 Empire Street; 401-831-3663;; restaurant run by non-profit, AS220; art studio, bar, gallery, music venue, and restaurant.
Chez Pascal – 960 Hope Street; 401-421-4422;; French; neighborhood brasserie.
Classic Café – 865 Westminster Street; 401-273-0707;; for breakfast, especially; can order half portions, which is advisable; old-fashioned breakfast joint.
Dorrance – 60 Dorrance Street; 401-521-6000;; architecturally splendid (stained glass windows, gilded candelabra, and elaborate, cake-frosting moulding); excellent, inventive food.
Farmstead & La Laiterie – 186 Wayland Avenue (Foxpoint); 401-274-7177;; notable for cheese offerings; fresh, often home-canned products; cramped dining area.
Flan y Ajo – 225A Westminster Street; 401-432-6656;; BYOB tapas bar in small space (stools only, no tables); can buy liquor next door at Eno Fine Wines.
Gracie’s – 194 Washington Street; 401-272-7811;; grows much of own produce; New American cuisine.
Julian’s – 318 Broadway; 401-861-1770;; for breakfast, especially; includes vegan items; but, at carnivore spectrum end, try braised short rib eggs Benedict.
Ken’s Ramen – 69 Washington Street; 401-859-1998;
AS220 FOO(d) – 115 Empire Street; 401-831-3663;; restaurant run by non-profit, AS220; art studio, bar, gallery, music venue, and restaurant.
Craftland – 235 Westminster Street; 401-272-4285;; gewgaw emporium.
Eno Fine Wines – 225 Westminster Street; 401-521-2000;; liquor and wine, including regional craft beers.
Farmstead & La Laiterie – 186 Wayland Avenue (Foxpoint); 401-274-7177;; notable for cheese offerings; fresh, often home-canned products.
Queen of Hearts – 222 Westminster Street; 401-421-1471;; women’s boutique.
Wharf – 212 Westminster Street; 401-272-1231;; nautically themed men’s store.
Sights & Sites
AS220 FOO(d) – 115 Empire Street; 401-831-3663;; restaurant run by non-profit, AS220; art studio, bar, gallery, music venue, and restaurant.
Big Nazo Lab – 60 Eddy Street; 401-831-9652;; art studio; alien creatures and monsters peer from storefronts.
Blackstone Boulevard Walking Path – Blackstone Boulevard & Hope Street;; begins at Blackstone Park (at Angell Street and River Road intersection) and cuts through beautiful, historic neighborhood.
Cable Car Cinema & Cafe – 204 South Main Street; 401-272-3970;; for glass of wine while watching little known, feature art film.
Chace Center – 20 North Main Street; 401-454-6500;; branch of Museum of Art at Rhode Island School of Design; exhibition space.
India Point Park – India Street (Fox Point);; can get take out from Abyssinia and picnic here.
Museum of Art at Rhode Island School of Design – 224 Benefit Street; 401-454-6500;; Manet’s Le Repos (Berthe Morisot portrait); also, important American decorative arts collection.

Bocce Club Restaurant – 226 St. Louis Avenue; 401-767-2000; open since 1930s; Italian and Portuguese; try roast chicken; not much to look at.

Watch Hill
Ocean House – 1 Bluff Avenue; 401-315-5599;; yellow clapboard, rambling porticos, and salvaged original fixtures.

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