Wednesday, November 2, 2011


(does not include Aspen or Denver)

Sights & Sites
Colorado Birding Trail –; 219 accessible sites throughoutstate; Eastern Plains (Shortgrass Prairie),; Rocky Mountain (High Altitude Habitats),; Western Colorado (Red Rock Country),
Highway 285 – from New Mexico border (near Texas) to Denver;; US 285 runs for few miles through Denver metro area (as Hampden Avenue) then begins to climb into Rocky Mountains, mostly following original narrow gauge transcontinental railroad route, skirting Mount Evans massif’s south side; once west of Mount Evans, winds over Kenosha Pass, into its South Park basin; partway across South Park, serves Como, which still houses narrow gauge roundhouse; old transcontinental railroad breaks away from US 285 at this point, going northwest over Boreas Pass en route to Breckenridge; US 285, meanwhile, continues across valley to southwest, leaving South Park basin as it climbs over Trout Creek Pass, and then drops into Upper Arkansas River Valley, with Mount Princeton view; once highway hits Arkansas River Valley floor, turns sharply south, just missing Buena Vista to north; as US 285 turns south, it brushes Salida, climbs over Poncha Pass, then enters San Luis Valley’s northern end.

Zapata Ranch – 5305 Colorado 150; 719-378-2356 or 888-592-7282;; working ranch; must have horseback experience; accommodations are in 19th Century wooden bunkhouse or 1970s Nature Conservancy house; excellent meals.

Downslope Distilling – 6770 South Dawson Circle, Suite 400; 303-693-4300;; mad scientist's lab with tasting counter.

Pagosa Springs
Springs Resort & Spa – 165 Hot Springs Boulevard; 970-264-4168;; simple hotel in complex 3-building complex, situated above Great Pagosa Hot Springs; classic, simply furnished rooms have free WiFi & coffeemakers; deluxe rooms & suites add kitchenettes with microwaves & mini-fridges (some suites also have private patios); hotel guests receive free admission to 23 hot springs soaking pools, including geothermal pool & hot tub; other amenities include complimentary coffee, tea & juice in lobby and communal microwave, plus limited free parking.
Healing Waters Spa – 317 Hot Springs Boulevard; 970-264-5910;; year-round heated outdoor swimming pool, as well as men’s and women’s indoor hot baths.
Overlook Mineral Springs Spa – 432 Pagosa Street; 970-264-4040;; indoor tubs & rooftop pools.

Boulder (includes Louisville)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Sweet Cow – 637 Front Street; 303-666-4269;; handmade ice cream.
Bars & Nightclubs
Amante – 4580 Broadway; 303-448-9999;; bar and café; also, custom-roasted coffee.
Bitter Bar – 835 Walnut Street; 303-442-3050;; “revelatory” cocktails.
Mateo – 1837 Pearl Street; 303-443-7766;; unusual cocktails.
303 Vodka – 2500 47th Street, #10 (at Boulder Distillery); 303-442-1244;; lively bar scene on weekends.
Oak at 14th – 1400 Pearl Street; 303-444-3622;; try hot drink, “Pearl Street Toddy,” ginger liqueur, bourbon, chartreuse, honey, lemon, grated nutmeg, and hot water.
Alps – 38619 Boulder Canyon Drive; 303-444-5445 or 800-414-2577;; historic log lodge from 1800s on mountainside 7 minutes west of downtown; Arts and Crafts and Mission furnishings; ideal if planning to split time between Boulder and outlying areas; all rooms have functional fireplaces and individual thermostats; many have private porches; shared spaces include gardens, lounge with huge rock fireplace, and patio; entrance is original log cabin built in 1870s.
Boulder Outlook – 800 28th Street; 303-443-3322 or 800-542-0304;; former Ramada and Holidome, yet definitively Boulder; unique perks include 2 bouldering rocks, fenced 4K-square-foot dog run, and ecologically conscious approach and comprehensive recycling program; brightly painted motel has 40 rooms that have outdoor entrance; rest accessed indoors; indoor pool superb, complete with waterfall and cloud-speckled sky mural; bar and grill.
St. Julien Hotel & Spa – 900 Walnut Street; 720-406-9696;; 1st new hotel in downtown since 1909; flagstone and Norman brick exterior (patina copper and red roof tile accents); linens and premium bath amenities; artistic Boulder photographs, honeyed tones, and French doors accent guest rooms; perks include guided hikes on weekends ($10 for about 3 hr.), 2-lane lap pool, and spa that offers “indigenous therapies” using local minerals and plants.
Amante – 4580 Broadway; 303-448-9999;; bar and café; also, custom-roasted coffee.
Bacco Trattoria & Mozarella Bar – 1200A Yarmouth Avenue; 303-442-3899;; housemade and imported cheeses, among other delicacies.
Frasca Food & Wine – 1738 Pearl Street; 303-442-6966;; Italian; try risotto made with Indonesian lemon vinegar and musque de Provence from Red Wagon Farm, local grower.
Kitchen – 1039 Pearl Street; 303-544-5973;; neighborhood bistro; food is organic and free-range; crisp white interiors, chalkboard menus, and rustic tables; patrons come for high-concept comfort foods like pork chops and burgers made from hormone-free lamb.
Mateo – 1837 Pearl Street; 303-443-7766;; French; Mediterranean-influenced; features local ingredients.
Oak at 14th – 1400 Pearl Street; 303-444-3622;; try cacao-braised boar.
Tangerine – 2777 Iris Avenue; 303-443-2333;; great breakfasts & brunches.
Absolute Vinyl Records & Stereo – 4474 Broadway; 303-955-1519; impeccably organized LPs, emphasizing esoteric, pre-WWII jazz.
Boulder Distillery – 2500 47th Street, #10 (at Boulder Distillery); 303-442-1244;
I Love to Grow – 4715 Broadway; 303-736-9508;; hippie-vibe garden center with periodic art exhibits and live music.
Sights & Sites
Celestial Seasonings – 4600 Sleepytime Drive; 303-581-1266;; step inside peppermint room to clear your sinuses.
Roundhouse Spirits – 5311 Western Avenue, Suite 180; 303-819-5598;; distillery that offers weekend tours.

Nathrop (includes Buena Vista)
Antero Hot Springs Cabins – 16120 Colorado Road; 719-539-8204;; right inside San Isabel National Forest (along Chalk Creek); 3 cabins, each with own hot-springs-fed pools & spectacular mountain views; schedule visit with massage therapist & sign up for hot herbal wrap or private yoga instruction.
Cottonwood Hot Springs Inn & Spa – 18999 County Road 306 (Buena Vista); 719-395-6434;; stay on site in Cottonwood Creek-side cabin or lodge right in Collegiate Peaks mountains or just come for day; several pools range in temperature from 94-110°; spa services are available, as are sounds of creek rushing by.
Creekside Hot Springs Cabin – 15654 County Road 289A (Buena Vista); 719-207-2100;; private hot-spring tub next to burbling Chalk Creek; cozy 3-bedroom vacation rental is as peaceful as it gets.
Sights & Sites
Alpine Hotsprings Hideaway – 16185 Colorado Road 162; 719-530-1112;; nestled amid Collegiate Peaks mountains; hot springs come with 3-bedroom home that can accommodate 12 people for private enjoyment of mineral-rich waters.
Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort – 15870 Colorado Road; 719-395-2447;; luxurious mountain resort boasts numerous geothermal springs; 30 small pools located right in Chalk Creek, which runs alongside property & adds super-natural feel to your soak.

Sights & Sites
Salida Hot Springs Aquatic Center – 410 West Rainbow Boulevard; 719-539-6738;; publicly-operated, indoor pool with room for laps, fitness classes, arthritis pool therapy, water slide & other activities; private soaking pools, which can be reserved in advance.

Idaho Springs
Sights & Sites
Indian Springs Resort – 302 Soda Creek Road; 303-989-6666;; hot springs, mineral baths, mud baths & massages; lodging is also available.

Antonito (includes Buena Vista)
Sights & Sites
Cano’s Castle – State Street & East 10th Avenue;; can only drive by; 4 gleaming towers, built single-handedly by Donald “Cano” Espinoza, Native American Vietnam vet; built largely out of beer cans & other metal refuse, for Espinoza, serves as thanks for having his life spared during Vietnam; actually 4 separate structures: “King”, “Queen”, “Palace” & “Rook”; “King,” covered in gleaming beer cans & hubcaps, is crowning architectural achievement; Cano says main influences for Castle are “Vitamin Mary Jane” & Jesus.

Bars & Nightclubs
Bart & Yeti’s – 551 East Lionshead Circle; 970-476-2754;; sports bar; rustic here means no-frills.
Garfinkel’s – 536 East Lionshead Circle; 970-476-3789;; longtime, down-at-heels, apres-ski bar.
Arrabelle – 675 Lionshead Place; 970-754-7777 or 888-688-8055;
Four Seasons Vail – 1 Vail Road; 970-477-8600 or 800-819-5053;; 121 rooms; Alpine-looking with wooden balconies and peaked roofs; many rooms feature gas fireplaces; at fireside lobby, sushi service at après-ski hour.
Lodge at Vail – 174 East Gore Creek Drive; 970-476-5011 or 877-528-7625;
Sebastian – 16 Vail Road; 970-949-5511 or 877-888-1540;; completely renovated boutique hotel.
Tivoli Lodge – 386 Hanson Ranch Road; 970-476-5615 or 800-451-4756;
Block 16 – 16 Vail Road (at Sebastian Hotel); 970-949-5511;
Campo de Fiori – 100 East Meadow Drive, #24; 970-476-8994;; best Italian in town; great cheeses and cured meats; Italian-focused wine list; homemade pasta.
Left Bank – 183 Gore Creek Drive; 970-476-3696;; old-world French charm; predominantly French wine cellar.
Restaurant Kelly Liken – 12 Vail Road, #100; 970-479-0175;; seasonal American cuisine; game.
Mountain Standard – 193 Gore Creek Drive; 970-476-0123;; chops, fresh produce, and steaks; open for lunch.
Sweet Basil – 193 Gore Creek Drive, #201; 970-476-0125;; hometown favorite since 1977; New American menu; always packed.
Vendetta’s – 291 Bridge Street; 970-476-5070;; Italian, primarily for pizza.
Axel’s – 201 Gore Creek Drive; 866-655-2935;; western clothing and jewelry.
DeMott Gallery – 183 Gore Creek Drive; 970-476-8948;; art.
Gorsuch – 263 East Gore Creek Drive; 970-476-2294;; clothing.
J. Cotter Gallery – 234 East Wall Street; 970-476-3131;; art.
Kemo Sabe – 230 Bridge Street; 970-479-7474;; clothing.
Squash Blossom – 198 Gore Creek Drive; 800-323-2339;; clothing and jewelry.

Colorado Springs
Bars & Nightclubs
Blue Star – 1645 South Tejon Street; 719-632-1086;; serves locally made, Distillery 291 spirits.
Broadmoor – 1 Lake Avenue; 719-634-7711 or 866-837-9520;; storied resort keeps itself on luxury forefront; originally opened in 1918; 1st names entered on guest register were those of John D. Rockefeller, Jr. and his party; enormous resort complex of historic pink Mediterranean-style buildings with modern additions, set at Cheyenne Mountain’s foot; on magnificently landscaped 3K-acre grounds about 3.5 miles southwest of downtown; original Italian Renaissance-style main building features marble staircase, chandeliers, Italian tile, hand-painted beams and ceilings, and carved-marble fountain; priceless art collection with original work by Toulouse-Lautrec and Ming dynasty ceramicists; behind main building is Cheyenne Lake; swimming pool almost seamlessly attached to west end, looking like part of lake; swimming complex is like oceanside beach resort, with water slides, 2 outdoor hot tubs, 13 cabanas, and outdoor café; guest rooms occupy separate buildings centered on lake and pool area; many rooms contain large soaking tubs and separate marble showers; hotel averages 2 employees for every guest.
Cheyenne Mountain Resort – 3225 Broadmoor Valley Road; 719-538-4000 or 800-428-8886;; set at Cheyenne Mountain’s foot; built at preexisting country club with Pete Dye-designed golf course in 1985; less expensive alternative to swank Broadmoor, just few miles uphill; stunning view of mountain from lobby; top-notch recreational facilities; rooms are rich and masculine and have either 1 king or 2 queens (or both in some suites); bathrooms are cut above, with granite counters and tub/shower combos, as well as jetted soakers in executive suites; all rooms have private balcony, and most of them have great views.
Cliff House at Pikes Peak – 306 Cañon Ave (at Manitou Springs); 719-685-3000 or 888-212-7000;; built in 1874; designated National Historic Landmark in 1980; hosted Theodore Roosevelt, Clark Gable, and Thomas Edison; massive reconstruction in 1997; lovely, uniquely decorated accommodations vary in size and personality, although overall decor is Queen Anne-Victorian; units range from average-size, relatively simple studios to large, luxurious celebrity suites named for former guests; some units have gas fireplaces, 2-person spas, steam showers, and terrific mountains views; excellent room is Clark Gable Suite ($475 double in summer), decorated in leopard-print wallpaper with shower for 2, jetted tub, wet bar and refrigerator, 2 TVs, gas fireplace, and photos of Clark, who stayed at hotel in early 1940s.
Adam’s Mountain Café – 110 Cañon Avenue (Manitou Springs); 719-685-1430;; American food; not strictly vegetarian, Adam’s Mountain Cafe among area’s best restaurants for those seeking vegetarian or health food; exposed brick and stone, antique tables and chairs, fresh flowers, and original works by local artist create country appearance; menu includes grilled items, fresh fish, and many Mediterranean-style entrees; breakfast specialties include orange-almond French toast and P.W. Busboy Special, consisting of 2 whole-grain pancakes, 2 scrambled eggs, and fresh fruit slices; lunch offerings include sandwiches, soups, salads, fresh pasta, and Southwestern plates; dinner includes harvest crepes, packed with roasted butternut squash and finished with vegetarian red chili and Caribbean jerked chicken.
Craftwood Inn – 404 El Paso Boulevard (Manitou Springs); 719-685-9000; American regional food; in English Tudor building with beamed ceilings, stained-glass windows, and copper-hooded fireplace; casually elegant; built in 1912; originally coppersmith’s shop; specializes in regional game and also offers steak, seafood, and vegetarian dishes; extensive selection of game – elk, venison, pheasant, quail, caribou, antelope, wild boar, ostrich, and buffalo; try grilled Rocky Mountain elk steak, marinated in herb and smoke-infused oil, and served with cabernet sauvignon hunter’s sauce; somewhat unusual desserts, such as jalapeño white-chocolate mousse with raspberry sauce or prickly pear sorbet; outdoor patio provides wonderful Pikes Peak views.
Summit – 19 Lake Circle (at Broadmoor Hotel); 719-577-5896;; expensive and over-top.
Sights & Sites
Garden of Gods – 1805 North 30th Street; 719/634-6666;; 1 of American West’s unique geological sites; 1.3K acres; giant rock garden composed of spectacular red sandstone formations sculpted by rain and wind over Ms of years; located where several life zones and ecosystems converge; park harbors animal and plant communities; oldest survivors are ancient, twisted junipers, some 1K years-old; strangest animals are honey ants, which gorge themselves on honey in summer and fall, becoming living honey pots to feed their colonies during winter hibernation; park has numerous hiking trails – mostly easy to moderate (that offer great scenery); get trail maps for park at Visitor Center; also in park is Rock Ledge Ranch Historic Site.

Restaurant Six89 – 689 Main Street; 970-963-6890;; reservations recommended; considered among best restaurants in valley.
Village Smithy – 26 South 3rd Street; 970-963-9990;; outstanding breakfast menu, with specials changing daily; famous for blueberry corncakes.
Sights & Sites
Penny Hot Springs – east side of Highway 133 (few 100' north of mile marker 55);; tucked along Crystal River banks; primitive spot is short hike from Colorado Highway 133; about 12 people can fit in pool, which is sectioned off from river by large rocks.

Glenwood Springs
Hotel Colorado – 526 Pine Street; 970-945-6511;
Glenwood Hot Springs Lodge, Pool & Spa – 415 East 6th Street; 970-945-6571;
Hotel Colorado – 526 Pine Street; 970-945-6511;
Glenwood Hot Springs Lodge, Pool & Spa – 415 East 6th Street; 970-945-6571;
Sights & Sites
Glenwood Hot Springs Lodge, Pool & Spa – 415 East 6th Street; 970-945-6571;; world’s largest hot springs pool; water slides, mini golf, athletic club & spectacular Spa of Rockies.
Hanging Lake – 51871 Colorado Highway 6; 970-319-2670 or 970-948-1894 (both numbers for White River National Forest);; spectacularly beautiful lake; reached via trailhead located along Glenwood Canyon Bike & Pedestrian Path (runs along IH-70 north side in canyon bottom); trail follows Dead Horse Creek, Colorado River tributary; ascends 1K' over 1.2 miles from trailhead to lake.
Iron Mountain Hot Springs – 281 Centennial Street; 970-433-5838;; located at historic Iron Springs Spa on Colorado River banks; operated by Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park; 40'-X-60' mineral hot springs pool & 4 smaller relaxation pools will feature natural designs that complement the scenic hillside landscape next to river.
White River National Forest – 900 Grand Avenue; 970-319-2670 or 970-948-1894;

Hot Sulphur Springs
Sights & Sites
Hot Sulphur Springs Resort – 5609 Spring Road; 970-725-3306;; resort’s waters, which run in town, have been flowing from 7 natural springs for 100s years & used for healing by Ute Indians; hop from pool to pool to try out different temperatures & views.

Crested Butte
Bars & Nightclubs
Dogwood Cocktail Cabin – 309 3rd Street; 970-349-6338;
Dogwood Cocktail Cabin – 309 3rd Street; 970-349-6338;
Crested Butte Mountain Resort Zipline Tour – 500 Gothic Avenue; 970-349-2222;; 5-line zip system interspersed with other challenges, such as wooden suspension bridge and 40' net to climb.

Gunnison (includes Almont)
Almont Resort – 10209 Colorado Highway 135 (Almont); 970-641-4009;; sits where East and Taylor Rivers join to form Gunnison River; functioning resort since 1893; 15 cabins and 4 vacation homes on 90 acres; family-oriented; Spartan.
Sights & Sites
Waunita Hot Springs Ranch – 8007 Colorado Rd 887; 970-641-1266;; famous hot springs; ranch offers riding from flowered meadows to snow-ridged mountains, fishing, cookouts, square dancing, Western music shows.

Chief Hosa Lodge & Campground – 27661 Genesee Drive; 303-526-1324;
Sights & Sites
Lariat Loop Road – runs between Routes 40 and 6, south of Golden.

Sights & Sites
Dinosaur Ridge – 16831 West Alameda Parkway; 303-697-3466;; dinosaur fossils & tracks on display along 2 mountain trails, plus guided tours & exhibit hall.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Raiders Ridge Cafe – 509 East 8th Avenue; 970-375-9727;; gourmet breakfast and lunch wraps, generous salads, homemade soups, whole fruit smoothies, fresh baked treats; at base of popular biking & hiking trail.
Bars & Nightclubs
Office Spiritorium – 699 Main Avenue (at Strater Hotel); 970-375-7260;
Blue Lake Ranch – 16000 Highway 140 (Hesperus); 970-385-4537 or 888-258-3525;
Leland House Bed & Breakfast Suites – 721 East 2nd Avenue; 970-385-1920 or 800-664-1920;; built in 1927; intriguing mix of lodging types in comfortable inn with early-20th Century décor; 6 suites with sitting rooms and full kitchens, plus 4 studios with kitchenettes; all have private bathrooms with showers (no tubs) and are decorated with compatible combination of good-quality beds, antiques, near-antiques, and contemporary furniture.
Rochester Hotel – 726 East 2nd Avenue; 970-385-1920 or 800-664-1920;; among favorite places to stay in Durango; built in 1892; high ceilings, original trim and hardware, antiques, historic photos and original Western art, and 1890s-style furnishings; completely renovated in mid-1990s; 15 spacious rooms, each with its own bathroom (2 have whirlpool tubs with showers, and rest have large walk-in showers); rooms have queen or king beds; 1 unit has king bed and kitchen and another, king and separate living room; run more like large bed-and-breakfast inn, with innkeeper on hand to act as concierge; wonderful breakfasts include fresh-baked muffins, scones, or breads; fruit selection; oatmeal; cold cereals; yogurt; and beverages; plus hot entree such as havarti-dill scrambled eggs with potato-chive cake; fresh-baked cookies and other refreshments provided in evening; within easy walking distance of Durango’s downtown.
Strater Hotel – 699 Main Avenue; 970-375-7260 or 800-247-4431;
Cyprus Café – 725 East 2nd Avenue; 970-385-6884;; Mediterranean; tiny restaurant 1 block from Durango’s busy Main Avenue offers alternative to basic American and Southwestern cuisine; simple cafe atmosphere, with 10 wood tables, stained-glass window, and few pieces of original art; in summer, outdoor patio seating, which more than doubles restaurant’s capacity; emphasis on freshness, with produce from local farms when available.
Durango Diner – 957 Main Avenue; 970-247-9889;; locally famous for good basic grub at reasonable prices; open since 1965; serves breakfast and lunch only; skinny storefront with long counter and table or 2 looking out on busy Main Avenue.
Mahogany Grille – 699 Main Avenue; 970-247-4433;; fun, upscale restaurant, attached to Strater Hotel; lively spot serving cutting-edge dishes; dinner only; new American cuisine with definite international influences.
Raiders Ridge Cafe – 509 East 8th Avenue; 970-375-9727;; gourmet breakfast and lunch wraps, generous salads, homemade soups, whole fruit smoothies, fresh baked treats; at base of popular biking & hiking trail.
Tacos Nayarit – 2525 Main Avenue; 970-385-1595;
James Ranch – 33800 US 550; 970-385-9143;; artisanal food products.
Sights & Sites
Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad – 479 Main Avenue; 970-247-2733 or 888-872-4607;; Colorado’s most famous train; in continual operation since 1881; in all that time, route has never varied: up Río de las Animas Perdidas (Lost Souls River), through 45 miles of mountain and San Juan National Forest wilderness to historic mining town (Silverton) and back; coal-fired steam locomotives pull strings of gold-colored Victorian coaches on 3K' climb, past mining and railroad activity relics from last century; summer trip takes 3.25 hours each way, with 2-hour stopover in Silverton before return trip; can also overnight in Silverton and return to Durango following day.
Trimble Spa & Natural Hot Springs – 6475 Colorado Road 203; 970-247-0111;; relax in sauna, swim laps in massive, naturally-heated, mineral pool, picnic & sunbathe poolside and soothe body and soul with massage treatments.

Estes Park (includes Glen Haven)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Glen Haven General Store – 7499 County Road 43 (Glen Haven, Devils Gulch Road); 970-586-2560;; known for its cinnamon rolls.
Stanley Hotel – 333 Wonderview Avenue; 970-577-4000 or 800-976-1377;; known for architecture, magnificent setting, and famous visitors; best known for inspirational role in Stephen King’s Shining [Note: actual hotel in film is Timberline Lodge, Mt. Hood, Oregon.]; “Lodge” is recently renovated annex with 40 quainter, quieter rooms; opened in 1909 by F.O. Stanley (Stanley Steamer); many original buildings remain in use; on remaining 55 acres; gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park; Room 217 is where Stephen King was “haunted.”
YMCA of Rockies – 2525 Tunnel Road; 970-586-4444 or 800-777-9622;; on 860 acres; rustic cabins, vacation homes, and hotel-style lodge rooms; stables, basketball courts, crafts center, roller-skating rink, tennis courts, and 18-hole miniature-golf course.
Cascades – 333 Wonderview Avenue (at Stanley Hotel); 970-577-4000;; locally sourced lamb and ribeye.
Ed’s Cantina & Grill – 390 East Elkhorn Avenue; 970-586-2919;
New Venture Cycling – 2050 Big Thompson Avenue; 970-231-2736;; bicycle rentals and tours.
Sights & Sites
Rocky Mountain National Park – 1000 US Highway 36; 970-586-1206;; 5 visitor centers; headquarters, Beaver Meadows Visitor Center, is National Historic Landmark, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture at Taliesin West; mountain views, wildlife, varied climates and environments (from wooded forests to mountain tundra), and easy access to back-country trails and campsites; one worthwhile hike would be to Chasm Lake (4.2 miles from Longs Peak Trailhead).

Sights & Sites
Dinosaur National Monument – 4545 US 40 (Colorado-Utah border); 435-781-7700;; located on Uinta Mountains’ southeast flank, at Green & Yampa Rivers’ confluence; most monument area in Moffat County, Colorado, but Dinosaur Quarry is in Utah just north of Jensen, Utah; dinosaur fossils on view include Allosaurus, Abydosaurus & various long-neck, long-tail sauropods.

Sights & Sites
Hovenweep National Monument – McElmo Route; 970-562-4282;
Mesa Verde National Park – Highway 160 (near Four Corners); 970-529-4465;; largest archaeological preserve in U.S.; created in 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt to protect cliff dwellings (1st, and still only, cultural National Park set aside by National Park System; occupies 81.4 square miles; features numerous ruins built by Ancestral Puebloan people, sometimes called Anasazi; over 4K archaeological sites & over 600 cliff dwellings; Anasazi inhabited Mesa Verde 600-1300 CE, though evidence they left before 15th Century.

Cresto Ranch – 52068 West Fork Road 38; 970-882-4800 or 877-228-4674;; sister property to Dunton Hot Springs; boutique, tented camp; fly-fishing, horseback riding, mountain-biking, soaking in hot springs, etc.
Dunton Hot Springs – 52068 West Fork Road 38; 970-882-4800 or 877-228-4674;; private cabins near Telluride; hot springs.
Sights & Sites
Dunton Hot Springs – 52068 Colorado Road 38; 970-882-4800;; all-inclusive resort set in restored ghost town; features private log cabins, mineral-rich hot springs & long-table dinners held in 1800s saloon; enjoy soaking pool inside restored 19th Century bathhouse or venture to Colorado’s only geyser, which is located nearby.

Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs – 45 3rd Avenue; 970-325-4981;; situated in peaceful courtyard beneath scenic mountainside with 360° views; hot-springs tubs are available only to overnight guests; frequent guests recommend taking in San Juan sunrise on bench swings.
Twin Peaks Lodge & Hot Springs – 125 3rd Avenue; 970-325-4427;; mountain-view outdoor pool & 2 soaking tubs (1 indoors, adults-only, & 1 outdoors); spectacular breakfast, tiki bar & easy access to Jeep rentals; perfect Ouray retreat.
Sights & Sites
Box Cañon Park – County Road 361 (off highway 550, just south of Ouray); 970-325-7080 or 970-325-7065;; Box Canon Falls is Canyon Creek’s narrowing, spilling Ks gallons water per minute over falls; spectacular geological formation (285' waterfall plummets into narrow quartzite canyon); 3 interpretive trails; recognized by National Audubon Society as birding hot-spot (home to significant Black Swift colony; dogs not allowed within park.
Ouray Colorado Hot Springs Pool – 1230 Main Street; 970-325-7073;; famous, sulfur-free hot springs; surrounded by towering mountains & lush forests; natural, crystal clear hot springs swimming pool great place to bring whole family; kid-approved amenities, such as large slide, diving area, shallow section for young swimmers & water volleyball area.

Sights & Sites
Orvis Hot Springs – 1585 Colorado Road 3; 970-626-5324; 7 pools in this San Juan Mountain, clothing optional paradise range from 98° to very steamy (up to 114°); unique gravel-bottom “pond” known for Mount Sneffels vistas & massaging waterfalls.

Avalanche Ranch – 12863 Colorado Highway 133; 970-963-2846;; charming & rustic log cabins with 24-hour access to 3 secluded hot springs pools; pastoral 36-acre ranch also features hiking trails, stocked fishing pond & private riverfront access.
Sights & Sites
Avalanche Ranch – 12863 Colorado Highway 133; 970-963-2846;; 3 secluded hot springs pools; pastoral 36-acre ranch also features hiking trails, stocked fishing pond & private riverfront access.

Steamboat Springs (includes Clark & Kremmling)
Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Freshie’s – 595 South Lincoln Avenue; 970-879-8099;; cinnamon rolls.
MountainBrew – 427 Oak Street; 970-879-7846;; relaxed cafe with scones and smoothies.
Winona’s – 617 Lincoln Avenue; 970-879-2483; homey spot for cinnamon rolls.
Bars & Nightclubs
Carl’s Tavern – 700 Yampa Avenue; 970-761-2060;; pot roast by day and parties at night.
Ghost Ranch Steamboat – 56 7th Street; 970-879-9898;; Wild West atmosphere; looks like set from Deadwood.
Laundry – 127 11th Street; 970-870-0681;; gastro-pub with vintage feel; inventive cocktails.
Sweetwater Grill – 811 Yampa Street; 970-879-9500;; fire-pit-equipped back deck overlooks Howelsen Hill; cozy lounge in front.
T-Bar – 2045 Ski Time Square Drive; 970-879-652; in former ski patrol trailer; down-at-heels look (plastic chairs, etc.) belies tempting treats, drinks and panini (peanut butter & bacon, for example).
Home Ranch – 54880 County Road 129 (Clark); 970-879-1780;; 20 minutes outside Steamboat Springs; 8 cozy cabins, all with private hot tubs, surrounded by fields and forests; rustic, family style dining room.
One Steamboat Place – 2250 Apres Ski Way; 970-870-5100 or 866-599-4626;; rivals anything in Aspen or Vail.
Trailhead Lodge – 1175 Bangtail Way; 970-879-9000;; roomy suites with fireplaces and kitchenettes, near mountain, with own gondolas.
Vista Verde Ranch – 58000 Cowboy Way (Clark); 970-879-3858 or 800-526-7433;
Bistro C.V. – 345 Lincoln Avenue; 970-879-4197;; industrial chic décor; wagyu-beef burgers with foie gras and chicken in maple syrup.
Café Diva – 1855 Ski Time Square Drive; 970-871-0508;; for many years, Steamboat Springs’ main fine dining establishment.
Carl’s Tavern – 700 Yampa Avenue; 970-761-2060;; pot roast by day and parties at night.
Laundry – 127 11th Street; 970-870-0681;; gastro-pub with vintage feel; small plates.
Paramount – 1865 Ski Time Square Drive; 970-879-1170;; unassuming spot with great – great – bacon, egg & cheese sandwich.
Sweetwater Grill – 811 Yampa Street; 970-879-9500;; fire-pit-equipped back deck overlooks Howelsen Hill; cozy lounge in front.
T-Bar – 2045 Ski Time Square Drive; 970-879-652; in former ski patrol trailer; down-at-heels look (plastic chairs, etc.) belies tempting treats, drinks and panini (peanut butter & bacon, for example).
F.M. Light & Sons – 830 Lincoln Avenue; 970-879-1822;; opened in 1905; sells Stetsons made from real buffalo; various other western items, plus John Wayne shrine.
Sights & Sites
Latigo Ranch – 201 Country Road 1911 (Kremmling); 970-724-9008;; 65 kms of backcountry trails, open to public for fee; sweeping Continental Divide views.
Old Town Hot Springs – 136 Lincoln Avenue; 970-879-1828;; 8 hot spring-fed pools, waterslides, fitness classes & on-site child care.
Strawberry Park Hot Springs – 44200 County Road 36; 970-879-0342;; secluded retreat nestled in hills just outside of town; cold and hot natural plunge pools carved along ridge; to avoid crowds, slip into stone huts for soothing massage; then snag spot in steaming-hot mineral bath, where can gaze up at stars.

Sights & Sites
Joyful Journey Hot Springs Spa – 28640 Colorado Road 58Ee; 719-256-4328;; San Luis Valley gem pulls 140° artesian mineral waters from beneath Sangre de Cristo mountains; pools are gravity-fed & cooled to comfortable, relaxing 98–110°; find unique lodging options in tiny tipi village & yurt.

Villa Grove
Valley View Hot Springs – 64393 East County Road; 719-256-4315;; non-profit, clothing-optional, off-grid spot; several, all-natural soaking ponds found along wilderness trails; hot tub and sauna heated geothermically and hydroelectrically; reservations strongly recommended.

Redwood Llamas – 1708 Green Street; 970-560-2926;; rend llamas for backpacking, June through September; mid-July through mid-August best for wildflowers.
Handlebars Food & Saloon – 117 13th Street; 970-387-5395; good burgers and interesting collection stuffed wildlife.
Sights & Sites
Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad – 479 Main Avenue (Durango); 970-247-2733 or 888-872-4607;
Mining Heritage Museum – 1569 Greene Street; 970-387-5838;
Old Hundred Gold Mine – County Road 4-A; 970-387-5444 or 800-872-3009;; includes gold panning.

Telluride (& Mountain Village)
Bars & Nightclubs
Bubble Lounge – 200 West Colorado Avenue; 970-728-9653;; grungy bar that serves beer, champagne, and oxygen (scented); oxygen shots look like something out of mad scientist’s lab.
New Sheridan – 233 West Colorado Avenue; 970-728-9100;; crackling fire and carved mahogany bar; billiards and poker.
Allred’s – just off midstation on free gondola between Mountain Village and Telluride; 970-728-7474;; rustic-chic lodge with craft beers; grab window seat for great sunsets or sit by stone fireplace.
Hotel Madeline – 568 Mountain Village Boulevard; 970-369-8944;; rustic-style elegance.
Lumiere – 118 Lost Creek Lane (Mountain Village); 970-369-0400 or 866-530-9466;; modern boutique; 20 units with steam showers and some with balconies; breathtaking mountain views.
Manitou Lodge – 333 South Fir Street; 970-728-4011;
New Sheridan – 233 West Colorado Avenue; 970-728-4351;; 26 Victorian rooms.
Allred’s – just off midstation on free gondola between Mountain Village and Telluride; 970-728-7474;; rustic-chic lodge; grab window seat for great sunsets or sit by stone fireplace.
Alpino Vino – just off Gold Hill Express lift; sleek, with cherry wood tables and roaring fireplace; Italian wines; cheese and cured meat plates; fills up fast so arrive by noon.
Brasserie M – 568 Mountain Village Boulevard (at Hotel Madeline); 970-369-8944;
Chop House Restaurant – 233 West Colorado Avenue; 970-728-9100;; plush booths, crystal chandaliers, and large steaks; after dinner, sneak through secret passage in back to bar.
Fat Alley BBQ – 122 South Oak Street; 970-728-3985; no frills joint.
Maggie’s Bakery – 300 West Colorado Avenue; 970-728-3334; red-checkered tablecloths and folksy service; place for breakfast, in particular.
New Sheridan – 233 West Colorado Avenue; 970-728-4351;; excellent, American fare.
Palmyra – 136 Country Club Drive (Mountain Village); 970-728-6800;; glass-walled with dazzling fire features and romantic valley views.
Ashley Boling – 970-728-6639; self-appointed guide who offers encyclopedic tours.
Eco Adventures – 565 Mountain Village Boulevard (Mountain Village, just off lift 10); 970-728-7300; guided snowshoe tours.
Gondola – free gondola links Telluride with Mountain Village.
Sights & Sites
Sheridan Opera House – 110 North Oak Street; 970-728-6363;; 1913, former Vaudeville-Grand Ole Opry house.

T-Bar – Peak 8 (base, at One Ski Hill Place); 970-547-8800;; try locally brewed Avalanche Ale.
Crystal Peak Lodge – 1891 Ski Hill Road; 970-547-8900 or 888-677-3356;
Great Divide Lodge – 550 Village Road; 970-547-5550 or 888-400-9590;
Grand Lodge on Peak 7 – 1979 Ski Hill Road; 970-453-3330 or 866-664-9782;
Mountain Thunder Lodge – 50 Mountain Thunder Drive; 970-547-5650 or 888-400-9590;
One Ski Hill Place – Peak 8 (base); 970-547-8800 or 888-652-9120;; 88 rooms; 2 indoor pools; 3 restaurants.
River Mountain Lodge – 100 Park Avenue South; 970-453-4711 or 800-661-7604;
T-Bar – Peak 8 (base, at One Ski Hill Place); 970-547-8800;; try elk tacos.

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