Tuesday, June 14, 2011

CAPE TOWN

(includes Bantry Bay, Bishop’s Court, Bo-Kaap (Cape Malay Quarter), Camps Bay, Clareinch, Claremont Constantia, Darling, Gardens, Granger Bay, Green Point, Higgovale, Kalk Bay, Lakeside, Noordhoek, Simonstown, Tamboerskloof, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Woodstock & Wynberg)

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
Cafe Puka – 2 Brunswick Road (Tamboerskloof); 011-27-021-423-6715; cafepuka.co.za; breakfast & coffee.
Dinkel Bakery – 91 Kloofneck Road (Tamboerskloof); 011-27-021-424-3217; dinkeldinkel.com; German bakery.
Escape Caffe – 130 Bree Street (CBD, at Manhattan Place, almost Bree & Wale Streets corner); 011-27-021-422-1325; escapecaffe.co.za; run by Nobel peace prize winner.
Olympia Café Bakery – 134 Main Road (Kalk Bay); 011-27-021-788-6396.
Giovanni’s Deliworld – 103 Main Road (Green Point, across from Cape Town Stadium, built in 2009 for World Cup); 011-27-21-434-6893; best place for espresso & people watching.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
Asoka – 68 Kloof Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-422-0909; asokabar.co.za; intimate, stylish bar; music and yummy cocktails; in restored Victorian house.
Baraza – Promenade, Victoria Road (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-438-1758; terrific oceanfront location; get seat on balcony.
Cafe Caprice – 37 Victoria Road (Camps Bay, on Promenade); 011-27-021-438-8315; cafecaprice.co.za; outdoor bar.
Darling Station Cabaret – Arcadia Street (Darling); 011-27-022-41-3145; evita.co.za; Pieter-Dirk Uys’s hilarious example of rapidly evolving Afrikaaner mores; country’s best-known satirist, cross-dressing Afrikaner based in tiny dairy town, Darling, about 40 miles north of Cape Town; town’s former railroad station is cabaret; 1-man show’s highpoint is Evita Bezuidenhout, his most famous character (iron-spined Afrikaner auntie who is combination Margaret Thatcher, Eva Braun, Alexis Carrington Colby, and Imelda Marcos).
Fiction DJ Bar & Lounge – 226 Long Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-5709; fictionbar.com; dancing and music.
Grand Cafe & Bar – 35 Victoria Road (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-438-4253; thegrand.co.za.
Harvey’s – 221 Beach Road (Sea Point, at Winchester Mansions Hotel); 011-27-021-434-2351; winchester.co.za; clean, elegant, gay-friendly; terrace overlooks seawall; you feel as if you are in Graham Greene-land, updated to modern sensibilities; American-style cocktails, plus South African after-dinner standbys, like Dom Pedros.
Jo’Burg – 218 Long Street; 011-27-021-422-0142 (CBD); like east Village hangout.
Il Leone Mastrantonio – 22 Cobern Street (Green Point); 011-27-021-421-0071; mastrantonio.com; Israeli chef makes Italian food, grilled calamari, extra-thin carpaccio, etc.; enormous wine list.
Manolo – 30 Kloof Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-422-4747; in elegant Victorian house; fusion bar and restaurant (European and South African); Ferran Adria-influenced.
Marco's Africa Place – 15 Rose Lane (Bo-Kaap); 011-27-021-423-5412; marcosafricanplace.co.za; live, local music.
Le Med – Victory Road Glen, Country Club (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-438-5600; lemed.co.za; overlooks Clifton and Atlantic Ocean; serves pizza.
Orphanage – 227 Bree Street (Gardens, at Orphan Street); 011-27-021-424-2004; theorphanage.co.za; cocktail emporium.
Perseverance – 83 Buitenkant Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-461-2440; perseverancetavern.co.za; 200 year-old pub.
Power & Glory – 13B Kloof Nek Road (Gardens, at Burnside Road); 011-27-021-422-2108; facebook.com/pages/The-Power-and-the-Glory/129092450488495; international hotel & restaurant designer, Adam Whiteman’s latest venture; hip bar-slash-bistro; impressive micro-brews, like Darling Brew Slow Lager; vintage metal chairs, Gauguin-esque birds prints, faded posters, and flat copper menus fastened to walls; front counter offers sour-dough bread, saucisson sec (cured sausage), and brownies; attached to this room is bar called “Black Ram,” whose shuttered doors swing open at 5; spare menu.
Rhodes House – 60 Queen Victoria Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-424-8844; rhodeshouse.com; doesn’t open until 10; courtyard; upscale.
Rose Bar – Alphen Drive (Constantia, at Alphen Hotel); 011-27-021-795-6300; alphen.co.za; in mid-1700s in Cape Dutch style, former manor house; terrace.
Salt – 34 Victory Road (Bantry Bay, at Ambassador Hotel); 011-27-021-439-7258; saltrestaurant.co.za; scene-y bar-restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Bantry Bay.
Space – Boyes and Main Roads corner (Kalk Bay); 011-27-021-788-2056; on waterfront.
St. Yves – Victoria Road (Camps Bay, on Promenade); 011-27-021-438-0826; styves.co.za; upscale, upstairs club; for late-night dancing and people-watching; outdoor seating area looks over beach and ocean.
Woodstock Lounge & Bar – 70 Roodebloem Road (Woodstock); 011-27-021-448-4448; woodstocklounge.co.za; media professional hangout; good margaritas.
Zula Sound Bar – 98 Long Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-2442; sulabar.co.za; dancing and music.



HOTELS
Alphen Hotel – Alphen Drive (Constantia); 011-27-021-795-6300; alphen.co.za; built in mid-1700s in Cape Dutch style; former manor house now national monument; owned by Cloete family descendants; health-&-wellness center; luxury rooms with air-conditioning, many recently updated; bar has huge, wood-burning fireplace, leather club chairs, and historic mementos.
Bay Hotel – 69 Victoria Road (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-438-4444; thebayhotel.accommodationsouthafrica.co.za; white-painted, Malibu-style pavilions; fashion-shoot and film-crew favorite; rooms are comfortable but feel like up-market motel; large but unheated pool; 15 minutes from downtown.
Bingley Place – 105 Victoria Road (Camps Bay); 011-27-083-326-2878; bingleyplace.co.za; majestic villa nestled just above sea with exclusive Barley Bay beach directly below; among last remaining original residences, built in 1920; vistas over Cape Town’s famous Table Mountain, 12 Apostles, and Atlantic Ocean, from every room; externally, house restored to former glory; internally, complete make-over from kitchens and bathrooms to travertine floors and pool; elegant, double-storied house rentable as 5-bedroom, self-catering but fully serviced villa with pool, or as 2 separate self-contained homes (no internal access between 2 floors, each having own entrance); upper level has 3 bedrooms, 2 main having king-sized beds, ocean views, and large baths opening up into bedrooms (3rd bedroom (2 singles) has private patio with mountain and sea views, as well as secluded outdoor Victorian bath in garden); fully equipped kitchen looks through sitting room with fireplace, to glass enclosed balcony that can be opened completely; elegant dining room with beautiful 8-seat Victorian table; from dining room you step out onto pool patio, which overlooks sea (30m away); downstairs unit features 2 bedrooms with showers (1 with king-sized bed and other with twin beds), fully equipped kitchen, and combined sitting and dining room that spills out onto private patio, outdoor private Victorian bath, antiques, original artworks, and beautiful vintage furniture from 1920s.
Bishop’s Court – 18 Upper Hillwood Avenue (Bishop’s Court); 011-27-021-794-6561; thebishopscourt.com; 5 room villa, each room looking out on Table Mountain; heated pool; tennis courts.
Camps Bay Retreat – 7 Chilworth Road (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-437-8300; campsbayretreat.com; 4-acre sanctuary; ocean views, tennis courts, swimming pools, spa, and excellent service.
Cape Grace – West Quay Road (Victoria & Alfred Waterfront); 011-27-021-410-7100; capegrace.com; on private quay; spa.
Cape Heritage Hotel – 90 Bree Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-4646; capeheritage.co.za; originally built in 1771; 15 rooms decorated in traditional style.
Cape Milner – 2a Milner Road (Tamboerskloof); 011-27-021-426-1101; capemilner.com; fantastic Table Mountain views; minimalist decor.
Cellars-Hohenhort Hotel – 93 Brommersvlei Road (Constantia); 011-27-021-794-2137; collectionmcgrath.com; gracious heritage property; expansive views over densely forested Table Mountain’s eastern slopes; genteel hotel that suits older travelers looking for out-of-town alternative; antique furnishings and original artworks adorn original Hohenort manor house; this is also where best rooms are; all rooms comfortably furnished with floral fabrics adorning king-size or twin beds; some rooms refurbished with more modern look; beautifully manicured 3.6-hectare (9-acre) garden; excellent dining.
Cliff Lodge – 6 Cliff Street (Gansbaai, De Kelders); 011-27-28-384-0983; clifflodge.co.za; west of Cape Town; beautiful, luxurious, breathtaking.
Colona Castle – 1 Verwood Street (Lakeside, off Old Boyes Drive); 011-27-021-788-8235; colonacastle.com.za; beautiful and elegant; surprisingly convenient.
Constantia – Spaanschemat River Road (Constantia); 011-27-021-794-6561; theconstantia.com; luxury boutique hotel; huge suites with private pools.
Ellerman House & Ellerman Villa – 180 Kloof Road (Bantry Bay); 011-27-021-430-3200; ellerman.co.za; beautiful.
Grand Daddy – 38 Long Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-7247; granddaddy.co.za; big talking point is “penthouse” trailer park, where vintage Airstream caravans nestle beneath Table Mountain; each designed by local artists.
Kensington Place – 38 Kensington Crescent (Higgovale); 011-27-021-424-4744; kensingtonplace.co.za; Cape Town’s loveliest boutique; 8 rooms.
Lion’s View – 4 1st Crescent (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-438-1239; lionsview.co.za; designed by 1 of South Africa’s leading architects; favored hideout for those avoiding paparazzi; 5 double bedrooms and sleeps-4 penthouse.
Last Word Constantia – Spaanschemat River Road (Constantia); 011-27-021-794-7657 or 011-27-021-794-6561; thelastword.co.za.
Leeuwenvoet Guest House – 8 Kloof Nek Road (Tamboerskloof); 011-27-021-424-1133; leeuwenvoet.co.za; lovingly restored Cape Victorian home built in 1892; original house has beautiful original woodwork and pressed steel ceilings; 12 minute walk to central Cape Town, about 5 minutes from Company Botanical Gardens and adjacent to trendy Kloof Street.
Mount Nelson – 76 Orange Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-483-1000; mountnelson.com.za; spa, Librisa, spreads through 3 Victorian buildings.
One & Only Cape Town – Dock Road (V&A Waterfront); 011-27-021-431-5888; oneandonlycapetown.com; excellent spa.
Protea Hotel North Wharf – 1 Lower Bree Street (V&A Waterfront); 011-27-021-443-4600; proteahotels.com; 67 rooms and roof-top swimming pool.
Sea Five – 5 Central Drive (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-438-0743; seafive.co.za; small boutique in sandy taupes and creams; Italian linens; best room is penthouse; pleasant pool and beach is 2 minute walk away.
Silo Hotel – Silo Square (V&A Waterfront); 011-27-021-670-0500; theroyalportfolio.com/the-silo/overview.
Steenberg Country Hotel – Steenburg and Tokai Roads corner (Constantia); 011-27-021-713-2222; steenberghotel.com; 10 minutes from downtown; bucolic setting in middle of 1 of oldest Cape Peninsula’s wine farms; spacious, traditionally furnished rooms in whitewashed, thatched, Cape Dutch-style houses spread over lush park setting; views of surrounding vineyards and mountains truly spectacular; pool perfect for whiling away afternoons.
Table Bay Hotel – Quay 6 (V&A Waterfront); 011-27-021-406-5000; cybercapetown.com/TableBayHotel; full spa; twin fireplaces; award-winning restaurant with 6K-bottle wine cellar; stunning water, Robben Island, and Table Mountain views.
Taj Cape Town – Wale Street (CBD); 011-27-021-426-4579; tajcapetown.co.az.
Tarragon – 21 Hunter Way (Hout Bay); 011-27-021-791-4155; thetarragon.com; ask for Angelica Cottage; swimming pool; lovely.
Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa – Victoria Road (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-437-9255; 12apostleshotel.com; isolated but beautiful.



RESTAURANTS
Aubergine – 39 Barnet Street (CBD-Gardens); 011-27-021-465-4909; aubergine.co.za; fine-dining; great wine list.
Azure – Victoria Road (Camps Bay, at Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa); 011-27-021-437-9000; 12apostleshotel.com; isolated but beautiful.
Bebe Rose – 112 Long Street (CBD, in African Women’s Trading Market); no sign out on street or even inside market; to find, walk down to subterranean floor and look for sign reading “Ethiopian Restaurant”; spartan; everyone eats with hands; in middle of room, large pitcher for washing; favorites include Cameroonian vetkoek (deep-fried dough balls like savory doughnuts) served with fried beans and fried chicken; other African dishes include Doro Wot (Ethiopian meat stew in berbere spice), Kondre (beef with raw plantain in freshly ground peanut sauce), Achu (traditional Cameroonian meal made of Taro and rock salt mixed with spicy palm nut juice and beef), and “vegi combo,” comprised of spicy split lentils, yellow peas, potato, and carrot in spicy sauce with greens, chickpeas, cabbage, and shiro and served with injera bread.
Biesmiellah Restaurant & Delicatessen – corner of Wale and Pentz Streets (Bo-Kaap, Cape Malay Quarter); 011-27-021-23-0850; biesmiellah.co.za; Malaysian-Indian cooking; better for lunch than dinner.
Bistro 1682 – corner of Steenburg and Tokai Roads (Constantia, at Steenberg Country Hotel); 011-27-021-713-2211; steenbergvineyards.co.za; lovely restaurant, serving tapas.
Bizerca Bistro – Jetty Street (Foreshore); 011-27-021-418-0001; bizerca.com; Asian-French comfort bistro.
Brass Bell – Waterfront (Kalk Bay); 011-27-021-788-5455; brassbell.co.za; excellent seafood (barbecued), on outdoor patio, overlooking sea; watch dolphin and seals.
Bukhara – 33 Church Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-000; bukhara.com; among Cape Town’s best Indian restaurants.
Carne SA – 70 Keerom Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-3460; carne-sa.com; modern; Italian steak restaurant.
Caffe Verdi – 21 Wolfe Street (Wynberg); 011-27-021-762-0849; caffe-verdi.co.za; fine Italian restaurant.
Catherina’s Restaurant – corner of Steenburg and Tokai Roads (Constantia, at Steenberg Country Hotel); 011-27-021-713-2222; steenbergvineyards.co.za; lovely restaurant.
Chalk & Cork – 51 Kloof Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-422-5822; chalkandcork.co.za; upbeat place with ample outdoor seating offering inventive tapas & wines by glass.
Chapman’s Peak Hotel – Chapmans Peak Drive (Hout Bay); 011-27-021-790-1036; chapmanspeakhotel.co.za; sit outside for view over Hout Bay and enjoy calamari.
Chefs Warehouse & Canteen – 92 Bree Street (City Center); 011-27-021-422-0128; chefswarehouse.co.za; tapas & cooking school.
Chefs Warehouse & Canteen – Glen Alpine (at Beau Constantia); 011-27-021-794-8632, ext. 1; beauconstantia.com/eat; impressive tapas & views.
La Colombe – Constantia Uitsig Farm, Spaanschemat River Road (Constantia); 011-27-021-794-2390; constantia-uitsig.com; African game and French cuisine; consistently rated among best South African restaurants.
5 Rooms – Alphen Drive (Constantia, at Alphen Hotel); 011-27-021-795-6313; alphen.co.za.
Food Barn – Noordhoek Farm Village, Village Lane (Noordhoek); 011-27-021-789-1390; thefoodbarn.co.za; bistro with Asian-French cooking.
Foxcraft – Shop 8/9, High Constantia Centre (High Constantia, corner of Groot Constantia & Constantia Main Roads); 011-27-021-202-3304; foxcroft.co.za; complete with in-house bakery, bar area & open kitchen.
Grand Café & Beach – Haul Road (Granger Bay); 011-27-021-425-0551; thegrand.co.za; situated in old crayfish warehouse and surrounded by beach; come for cocktails, basically, and then head to sister property.
Grand Camps Bay – 2 Victoria Road (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-438-4253; thegrand.co.za; grilled fish on beach.
Greenhouse – 93 Brommersvlei Road (Constantia, at Cellars-Hohenhort Hotel); 011-27-021-794-2137; cellars-hohenort.com; contemporary, relaxed space for intimate, sophisticated dining; cutting-edge, South African cuisine; seasonal menus.
Groot Constantia – Groot Constantia Estate (Constantia); 011-27-021-794-5128; grootconstantia.co.za; working vineyard open to public; beautiful location and lovely lunch or tea locale; 2 restaurants.
Haiku – 33 Burg Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-7000; Pan-Asian restaurant.
Harbour House Restaurant – Main Road (Kalk Bay, harbour); 011-27-021-788-4133; harbourhouse.co.za; unprepossessing from outside; once inside and seated at window table, magnificent bay views (fishing boats, whales); Mediterranean food.
Jardine Restaurant – 185 Bree Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-5640; jardineonbree.co.za; French Bistro with drab interior but good food.
Kitchen – 111 Sir Lowry Road (Woodstock); 011-27-021-462-2201; karendudley.co.za; lunches.
Little Ethiopia – 76 ShortMarket Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-8254; facebook.com/pages/Little-Ethiopia-Restaurant-Cape-Town/158818197523337.
Lola’s – 228 Long Street (CBD); 011-27-021-423-0885; dining-out.co.za/md/Lolas/5001; situated in backpacker quarter on bustling Long Street; retro-kitsch styling and haphazard thrown-together anti-glamour; for hangover-quelling breakfasts, pre-evening drinks, and filling meals that range from overly cheesy macaroni, to mushroom-topped lasagne; evening tapas menu; although menu tends to vegetarian, there is fish and meat; try, weather permitting, seat on sidewalk.
Madame Zingara – 192 Loop Street (CBD); 011-27-021-426-2458; zingara.co.za; décor is fortune-teller chic; food is international hodgepodge: Mediterranean, in general; Italy, in particular.
Manolo – 30 Kloof Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-422-4747; manolo.co.za; in elegant Victorian house; African-European fusion bar and restaurant.
Marco’s Africa Place – 15 Rose Lane (Bo-Kaap); 011-27-021-423-5412; marcosafricanplace.co.za; in light of live music, food almost beside point; simple African and Cape Malay; try grilled platter and have Mama's brandy tart for dessert.
Le Med – Victory Road Glen, Country Club (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-438-5600; lemed.co.za; overlooks Clifton and Atlantic Ocean; casual; serves pizza.
Moja – 98 Shortmarket Street (CBD); 011-27-021-423-4889; mojaheritage.co.za; theatrical, tabletop lava stone cooking.
Moyo – R310 (Constantia, Spier Estate, on Lynedoch Road); 011-27-021-809-1133; moyo.co.za; irresistibly fun; North African tagines, springbok shank potjie (traditional stew cooked over open fire), salads and vegetables, and desserts like koeksisters, deep-fried syrupy dough twists.
Mulberry & Prince – 12 Pepper Street (City Center); 011-27-021-422-3301; mulberryandprince.co.za; taste of Big Apple; modern luncheonette offering New American cuisine; rustic color palette of dusty pink, charcoal & terracotta & original brickwork & beams, with modernist touches; bar, hunk of locally-sourced natural slate, provides focal point, but true appeal is in detail; unable to locate perfectly matching slabs, designers brought series of roughly hewn pieces together with Japanese art of kintsukuroi, in which disjointed cracks are sealed with gold; diners share small dishes like ricotta gnudi with Parmesan broth & mushrooms.
Mykonos Taverna – 343 Main Road (Sea Point); 011-27-021-439-2106; open since early 1980s; reliable Greek food.
95 Keerom – 95 Keerom Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-422-0765; 95keerom.com; authentic Milanese cuisine in 1682 structure; originally housed Company Gardens’ stables and slave quarters; owned by Giorgio Nava; bread baked twice daily & freshest ingredients used; try crayfish linguine with cherry tomato sauce.
Novelli at Cellars – 93 Brommersvlei Road (Constantia, at Cellars-Hohenort Hotel); 011-27-021-794-2137; collectionmcgrath.com; uses local produce; salmon tartare or cassoulet terrine with white bean and green garlic dressing; kingklip (meaty white fish resembling halibut) garnished with sausage, olives, and tomatoes; pineapple tart; 1 of largest wine lists in Cape Town.
Old Biscuit Mill – 373-375 Albert Road (Woodstock); 011-27-021-462-6361; theoldbiscuitmill.co.za; mini-mall in old redbrick factory; food market winds through several tents, offering freshly prepared food from all over world; great ostrich burgers and bloody marys; great brunch location.
Olympia Cafe – 134 Main Road (Kalk Bay); 011-27-021-788-6396; tiny Kalk Bay landmark, furnished with mismatched tables and counter along window; well-kept secret among locals and regular visitors; mostly Mediterranean, consistently good fare; vegetarian eggplant rolls (filled with butternut squash, ricotta, and sweet potato and sauced with piquant tomato) very popular; during peak times, get there early because lines and no reservations; café’s bakery around corner.
one.waterfront – West Quay Road (V&A Waterfront, at Cape Grace Hotel); 011-27-021-418-0520; capegrace.com; African and other ethnicity-inflected; faux sharkfin soup; tandoori crayfish pappardelle; Peking duck with Thai green curry cream; braised lamb shank with feta cheese spring roll.
Peddlars on Bend – Spaanschemat River Road (Constantia); 011-27-021-794-7747; peddlars.co.za; homey, local, joint but spiffed-up.
Planet Restaurant – 76 Orange Street (Gardens, at Mount Nelson Hotel); 011-27-021-483-1948; mountnelson.co.za; recently modernized and updated; “ethically” and locally sourced ingredients; superb vegetarian dishes.
Roundhouse – Glen (above Camps Bay); 011-27-021-438-4347; theroundhouserestaurant.com; ining room 250 year-old building overlooks water; 7-course tasting menu ranges from eland carpaccio with pickled cranberry purée and braised ox tongue to apricot soufflé with Amaretto ice cream.
Rozenhof – 18 Kloof Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-24-1968; in Cape Town center; fine lunch spot; in 1852 Cape Georgian house; brass chandeliers and sconces; contemporary paintings (for sale) and pine floors; Cordon Bleu-trained chef draws inspiration from Europe and Asia; cheese soufflé with herb and mustard cream sauce or baked ricotta on salad of mixed leaves garnished with caramelized walnuts; kingklip topped with fennel crust and Pernod butter sauce.
Rustica – 70 New Church Street (CBD, entrance on Buitengracht Street); 011-27-021-23-5474; splendid Table Mountain view from rooftop terrace; excellent hybrid Italian-French menu (best bets: grilled lamb sausage with polenta and seafood linguine); great lunch spot.
Salt – 34 Victory Road (Bantry Bay, at Ambassador Hotel); 011-27-021-439-7258; saltrestaurant.co.za; sceney bar-restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Bantry Bay.
Savoy Cabbage – 101 Hout Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-2626; dining-out.co.za/online/savoycabbage; beautiful setting; traditional, fresh European restaurant; fresh ingredients; excellent desserts.
Sevruga – Quay 5, Shop 4 (V&A Waterfront); 011-27-021-421-5134; sevruga.co.za; sushi; book table by window for port-hole water views.
Showroom – 10 Hospital Street, Harbour Edge (Green Point); 011-27-021-421-4682; theshowroomrestaurant.co.za; chic, Cape Malay food with international influence.
Signal Restaurant – West Quay Road (V&A Waterfront, at Cape Grace Hotel); 011-27-021-410-7100; capegrace.com; reservations necessary well in advance; contemporary cuisine in elegant surroundings.
Societi Brasserie – 50 Orange Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-424-2100; societi.co.za; artisanal bistro fare.
Spaanschemat River Café – Constantia Uitsig Farm, Spaanschemat River Road (Constantia); 011-27-021-794-3010; constantia-uitsig.com; informal country fare in idyllic surroundings; lavender-fringed terrace; excellent breakfasts and light lunches (eggs Florentine and Benedict, Norwegian-salmon fish cakes with tarragon-and-basil mayonnaise, butternut ravioli with basil mousseline).
Stack – 7 Weltevreden Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-286-0187; thestack.co.za; private members club & public brasserie.
Willoughby & Co. – V&A Waterfront Wharf, Lower Level (V&A Waterfront); 011-27-021-418-6115; seafood; South African chain.
Villa 47 – 47 Bree Street (City Centre); 011-27-021-418-2740; villa47.co.za; relaxed, trendy Italian eatery.
Yindee’s – 22 Camp Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-22-1012; yindees.com; delicious Thai food in 200-year-old bungalow.



SERVICES
Bike & Saddle – V&A Marina Quarterdeck (V&A Waterfront); 011-27-021-813-6433; bikeandsaddle.com; wine-tastings while cycling and/or riding through vineyards.
Cape Sightseeing Bus – Dock Road (outside Two Oceans Aquarium); 011-27-021-511-6000; citysightseeing.co.za; actually, cheapest transport to get to most outlying locations; open-top, doubledecker sightseeing bus that makes regular stops at all the Cape area attractions: downtown, Camp’s Bay, Hout Bay, Constantia Nek, and Table Mountain, to name few.
Cape Town Villas – Longkloof Studios, Darters Road (Gardens); 011-27-021-481-4900; capetownvillas.net/contact-us; ask for Christine Mischker; christine@capetownvillas.net.
Coffeebeans Routes – 70 Wale Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-3572; coffeebeansroutes.com; interactive tours, jazz, music.
Rose Korber – 48 Sedgemoor Road (Camps Bay); 011-27-021-438-9152 or 438-9998; rosekorberart.com; art consultant and dealer who has surest and most insightful perspective on nation’s contemporary art scene.
Wilderness Cape Safari – Clareinch (Claremont); 011-27-021-674-0570; wilderness-safaris.com.



SHOPPING
Julian Adler Antiques & Africana – Church & Loop Streets (CBD, on corner); 011-27-021-221901; 1800.co.za; crowded antiques shop; British Empire and classic Cape Dutch furniture (such as stinkwood chairs with Riempieseats); cash only.
Africa Nova – 72 Waterkant Street (Green Point, in Cape Quarter, Waterkant District); 011-27-021-425-5123; africanova.co.za; crafts and contemporary design.
African Image – Hotel Mall, Victoria Wharf (V&A Waterfront); 011-27-021-419-0382; africa-image.co.za; funky, cluttered emporium; great place for miscellaneous Africana; objects made from flattened soda tins (more attractive than you’d think), soap dishes, twisted wire baskets, ingenious toys, and more serious work like a to-scale, hand-carved wooden bicycle or vivid statuettes of contemporary Africans.
African Music Store – 134 Long Street (CBD); 011-27-021-426-0857; africanmusicstore.co.za.
Bygones Antiques – 8 Augusta’s Way (Constantia); 011-27-021-794-5489; 1800.co.za; run by Sheila Boardman, 1 of Cape Town’s top antiques dealers; most attractive shop on Cape; renovated, thatched, former wine-cellar in Constantia vineyard country; surprisingly reasonably priced finds.
Clarke’s Africana & Rare Books – 211 Long Street (CBD); 011-27-021-23-5739; clarkes.co.za.
Clementina Ceramics – 373-375 Albert Road (Woodstock, at Old Biscuit Mill); 011-27-021-448-3203; clementinaceramics.blogspot.com; ceramics.
Collector – 48 Church Street (CBD); 011-27-021-423-1483; dealer, Colin Sayers, stocks Chokwe initiation figures and rare Luba bowls.
Evolution – 51c Meulenhof, Newport Street (Tamboerskloof); 011-27-021-23-3966 or cell phone 011-27-82-886-5628; Beatrice Wolfart’s jewelry; contemporary pieces using local minerals and semiprecious stones; by appointment only.
Fashion Collage Deli – 219-223 Long Street (CBD); 011-27-021-422-2774; Swaziland-born Thulare Monareng (Fashion Institute of Technology (NY) graduate); fashion items displayed in deli setting.
Gallery Shop – 48 Church Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-0517; higher quality souvenir items.
Giovanni’s Deliworld – 103 Main Road (Green Point, across from Cape Town Stadium, built in 2009 for World Cup); 011-27-21-434-6893; best place for espresso & people watching; city’s oldest deli; crammed with cheeses, sliced meats, wine, even newspapers.
Goodman Gallery – 176 Sir Lowry Road (Woodstock, at Fairweather House, 3rd Floor); goodmangallerycape.com; 011-27-021-462-7573; “blue-chip” South African artists, such as William Kentridge.
Heartworks – 98 Kloof Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-424-8419; heartworks.co.za; vintage “stuff.”
Karoo Moon – Old Biscuit Mill, 373-375 Albert Road (Woodstock); 011-27-021-447-5952; karoomoon.co.za; candy to antique furniture.
Kluk CGDT – Main & Upper Portswood Roads (Green Point); 011-27-83-377-7780; kluk.co.za; designer wear.
Kottlers of Cape Town – 106 Adderley Street (CBD); 011-27-021-237677; kottlersafrica.co.za; century-old-plus purveyor of upscale Africana; leather goods; prior to purchase, check that skin you buy is legal to bring back to U.S. (contact Office of Management Authority, U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, Department of Interior, 800-358-2104).
Mabu Vinyl – 2 Rheede Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-423-7635; mabuvinyl.co.za; music.
Merchants on Long – 34 Long Street (CBD); 011-27-021-422-2828; merchantsonlong.com; all great African brands under 1 roof, is goal; small coffee bar in back is must visit spot; ask to see Joya jewelry line.
Michael Stevenson – 160 Sir Lowry Road (Woodstock, in Buchanan Building); 011-27-021-462-1500; michaelstevenson.com; shows innovative new artists, such as Nicholas Hlobo.
Neighbourgoods Market – 373-375 Albert Road (Woodstock); 011-27-021-448-1438; neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za; organic products, as well as high-end.
Old Biscuit Mill – 373-375 Albert Road (Woodstock); 011-27-021-462-6361; theoldbiscuitmill.co.za; mini-mall in old redbrick factory; art, gifts, designer wear, photography, etc.
Private Collections – 66 Waterkant Street (Green Point); 011-27-021-421-0298; privatecollections.co.za; largest emporium of high-end Indian antiques outside of India.
Quagga – 84-86 Main Road (Kalk Bay); 011-27-021-788-2752; bookstore and boutique.
Peter Visser Antiques – 117 Long Street (CBD); 011-27-021-23-7870; dealer to see for antique Cape Dutch furniture; outstanding selection of prints, engravings, and maps.
Select Books – 232 Long Street (CBD); 011-27-021-424-6955; selectbooks.co.za; old and rare books, with African emphasis.
South African Print Gallery – 107 Sir Lowry Road (Woodstock); 011-27-021-462-6851; printgallery.co.za; prints by Gabisile Nkosi and Linga Diko.
T & Co. – 78 Victoria Junction (Green Point, at Ebenezer Road); 011-27-87-808-7064; tandco.co.za; furniture, fragrances, and hip flasks.
Whatiftheworld – 11 Hope Street, design studio or 208 Albert Road, 1st floor gallery (East City); 011-27-84-550-1037; whatiftheworld.com; innovative gallery and arts collective.
Wiebke von Bismarck – 25 Kenmore Road (Tamboerskloof); 011-27-021-23-7864; capegallery.co.za/wiebke_von_bismarck; ceramicist that uses traditional African firing methods; award-winning potter for 2 decades now; also traditional majolica and stoneware, including magnificent birdbaths ringed with tiny ceramic birds; by appointment at her studio; also represented by several city galleries.
Winhall & Holmes – 10 Cavendish Street (Claremont); 011-27-021-61-3815 or 61-9518; jeweler that features Meagan Lampe, upcoming jewelry designer; Lampe draws inspiration from various geometric shapes and patterns characteristic of African tribal clothing, as well as from elephant-hair jewelry.



SIGHTS & SITES
Boulders Beach – Simonstown; African penguins roam beach.
Cape Peninsula National Park – Cape Point; treacherous cliffs form most southwestern tip of Africa; marks where cold Beguela current on West coast and warm Agulhus current on East merge; inside reserve, variety of animals including buck, baboons, and Cape Mountain Zebra as well as over 250 species of birds and indigenous flora; scenic drive; picnic spots; tidal pools; lighthouse lookout by funicular or on foot for spectacular views; onsite, Two Oceans Restaurant (two-oceans.co.za) provides relaxing place to enjoy good food; take wooden stairs down to Diaz Beach.
Chapman’s Peak Drive – Hout Bay to Noordhoek; 114 curves; among world's most beautiful drives.
Company’s Gardens – downtown.
Delos – Glen Beach (Camps Bay); Mary Renault’s beachside cottage.
District Six Museum – 25A Buitenkant Street (Gardens-Observatory); 011-27-021-466-7200; districtsix.co.za; in restored church; addresses history of district six’ origins and destruction; offers area guided walking tours.
Greenmarket Square – Burg and Shortmarket Streets (CBD); outdoor bazaar.
Groot Constantia – Groot Constantia Estate (Constantia); 011-27-021-794-5128; grootconstantia.co.za; working vineyard open to public; beautiful location and lovely lunch or tea locale; museum and 2 restaurants; oldest wine estate in South Africa.
Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden – Rhodes Drive (Newlands); 011-27-021-799-8783; sanbi.org; UNESCO World Heritage site; among world’s finest botanical gardens; no trip to Cape Town complete without visit.; 6K indigenous species on display in this 1K-plus-acre garden created in 1913 from land bequeathed to nation by Cecil Rhodes; camphor and fig trees Rhodes planted still survive, as do portions of Jan van Riebeeck’s hedge (planted in 1660 to keep cattle out of surrounding farmland); on Table Mountain’s slopes; make sure to visit Fragrance Garden.
Old Biscuit Mill – 373-375 Albert Road (Woodstock); 011-27-021-462-6361; theoldbiscuitmill.co.za; mini-mall in old redbrick factory; numerous shops; high end.
Robben Island – bay; 011-27-021-413-4200; robben-island.org.za
South African Museum – 25 Queen Victoria Street (Gardens); 011-27-021-24-3330; iziko.org; though controversy still simmers over ethnographic exhibits, not to be missed; life-size dioramas of San hunter-gatherer people, Cape’s original inhabitants and now almost completely vanished, striking because figures cast in late 19th-early 20th Centuries from actual San people; prize pieces here are Lydenburg Heads, 7 terra-cotta heads found near Lydenburg in Transvaal.
South African National Gallery – Government Avenue (Gardens); 011-27-021-45-1628; iziko.org; Director Marilyn Martin made this small museum in Company’s Garden controversial by pushing contemporary South African work to forefront and by consciously blurring traditional distinction between art and indigenous craft.
Table Mountain National Park – Tafelberg Road (Tamboerskloof); 011-27-021-424-8181; tablemountain.net.
Waterkant District – sub-district of Green Point; area closest to central business district on Somerset Road’s southeastern end; very sought after address for young professionals, gay and lesbian community, and niche restaurants and retailers; lots of boutiques.
Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art – South Arm Road (V&A Waterfront, Silo District); 011-27-021-418-7855; zeitzmocaa.museum.

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