Wednesday, June 29, 2011


(includes Anhui & Moganshan Valley)

– region approximately 250 miles west of Shanghai; worth special visit; reflects village life of 100s years ago.
Chawu – Zhaji; 011-86-1370-518-7277;; 3 bedroom guest house; offers all meals.
Pig’s Heaven Inn – Renrang Li (Xidi); 011-86-559-515-4555; staff speak Chinese only; have arrangements made in advance; 5 bedrooms with small courtyard garden and 3rd floor lounge with stunning village view; interiors appointed with antiques; breakfast included; offers all meals.
Pig’s Inn – Bishan; 011-86-559-517-5555; grand Qing Dynasty merchant residence, with double height ceilings, interior courtyards, acres wood finishing, and back doors that open on to peach orchard; 8 guest rooms, apartment, and adjacent stone villa (with lofty roof and Jacuzzi); decorated in antiques, including spectacular Qing Era red and gold wedding bed; breakfast included; offers all meals.

Sights & Sites
Hongcun & Xidi – 2 villages declared UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Xidi Entrance Archway – Hu family built this giant, stone archway in Middle Ages.

Naked Stables Private Reserve – 37 Shangxiazhuang Cillage (Paitou Town); 011-86-021-6431-8901;; on 60-acre private game reserve.
Le Passage Mohkan Shan – Xianrenkeng Tea Factory, Ziling Village (Moganshan Town, Deqing County); 011-86-186-5728-5900;

Sights & Sites
White Cloud Castle – 502 Moganshan Scenic Area (Deqing County, at Baiyun Hotel Complex); 011-86-572-803-3382;; former home of Huang Fu, Kuomintang foreign minister; where Zhou Enlai and Song Mei Ling honeymooned.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Baker & Spice – 8 Century Avenue, LG1-16 (Pudong, at Shanghai IFC Mall); 011-86-021-5015-2375;; work benches, comfortable seating, and delicious tartines.
Da Ke Tang – 25 Xiangyang Nan Lu, Lane 388 (Xuhui, near Yongjia Lu); 011-86-021-6467-6577; relive old Shanghai in restored 1930s villa while enjoy cup Pu’er tea (house specialty) and free WiFi; good snacks; expensive.
Kommune – 210 TaiKang Road, Yard, #7 (Tian Zi Fang); 011-86-021-6466-2416; café nestled among Shanghai’s traditional old lanes inside quaint courtyard; in Taikang Lu, innovative art district; fresh juice and perfect cup of coffee.
Nap Cafe – 550 Shaanxi Nan Lu, #37 (French Concession, at Jia Shan Market); 011-86-021-5213-3067;; coffee.
Old China Hand Reading Room – 27 Shaoxing Road (Luwan, French Concession); 011-86-021-6473-2526; Shanghai’s most charming coffeehouse, opened in 1996 by photographer Deke Erh, is also bookstore; relax at Qing Dynasty antique table by window as you peruse your possible purchases over cappuccino or green tea; reading room open 10 am to midnight.
Old Film Café – 123 Doulun Lu (Hongkou); 011-86-021-5696-4763; with golden age Shanghai cinema as theme, this place makes for pleasant pit stop when touring Duolun Road area; vintage Chinese movie stars photos and classic 1930s film screenings; wide range teas.
Puli Shanghai Hotel – 1 Changde Road (Jing’an); 011-86-021-3203-9999;; lounge offers tie guan yin tea; spa.
Song Fang Maison de The – 227 Yongjia Road (Xuhui); 011-86-021-6433-8283;; teahouse run by former Veuve Cliquot China general manager.
Vienna Cafe – 25 Shaoxing Road (Luwan, French Concession); 011-86-021-6445-2131;

Bars & Nightclubs
Alchemist Cocktail Kitchen – 45 Sinan Road (Luwan, French Concession, at Sinan Mansions, Block 32); 011-86-021-6426-0660; high end, low-lit, romantic bar with “mixologists.”
Bar Rouge – 18 Zhongshan Dongyi Road, 7th Floor (Bund, Huangpu); 011-86-021-6339-1199;; boozy, overly expatriate hotspot; swanky.
El Coctel – 47 Yongfu Road (Xuhui); 011-86-021-6433-6511;; by reservation only (no “standing”); plain silver walls with hand-painted, water color mural on ceiling; mixology.
Flair – 1376 Nanjing West Road, 58th Floor (Jing’an, at Ritz-Carlton Hotel); 011-86-021-6279-8888;
Glamour Bar – 5 Zhongshan Dongyi Road (Bund, Huangpu); 011-86-021-6329-3751; perennially popular lounge with 1930s inflection.
House of Blues & Jazz – 60 Fuzhou Road (Bund, Huangpu); 011-86-021-6323-2779;; on Sunday nights, in particular, watch jazz musicians from Chicago to China jam in wood-paneled room.
JZ – 46 Fuxing West Road (Xuhui); 011-86-021-6431-0269;; nightly live performances with Shanghai vibe.
Long Bar – 2 Zhong Shan Dongyi Road (Bund, Huangpu, at Waldorf Astoria); 011-86-021-6322-9988;; in old Shanghai Club space; ask for Vesper Martini, which is not on menu.
Lounge 18 – 18 Zhongshan Dongyi Road, 4th Floor (Bund, Huangpu); 011-86-021-6323-8399; boozy, overly expatriate hotspot; swanky.
M-Glamour – 5 Zhongshan Dongyi Road, 6/F (Bund, at corner Guangdong Lu); 011-86-021-6329-3751;; try Shanghai martini (vodka, Campari, grapefruit bitters, and lychee).
Shelter – 5 Yong-fu Road (Xuhui); 011-86-021-6437-0400; DJ testing ground in former bomb shelter painted black.
Unico – 3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road; 011-86-021-5308-5396; colagreco.asi; cocktail bar by Michelin rated chef Mauro Colagreco (of Mirazur, on Cote d’Azur).
Vue Bar – 199 Huangpu Road, 32nd–33rd Floors (Bund, Huangpu, at Hyatt on Bund); 011-86-021-6393-1234;
Y.Y. Club – 125 Nanchang Road (French Concession); 011-86-021-6466-4098;; artsy crowd in salon style interior with Mao-era propaganda.
Yongfoo Elite – 200 Yongfu Road (Xuhui); 011-86-1-5466-2727;

Amanyangyun – 6161 Yuanjiang Road (Minhang); 011-86-1-21-8011-9999;; monument to conservation.
Andaz Shanghai – 88 Songshan Road (Xintiandi); 011-86-021-2310-1234;; large hotel with westernized, boutique feel; 307 rooms; almost floor-to-ceiling windows in bedrooms and truly spectacular, grotto-like bathrooms.
D.R. Home – 511 Jiang-Ning Road (Jing’an); 011-86-021-6176-7088;; in former police headquarters; 2.1K' square suite outfitted with antique candelabras, Philipp Mainzer bed & iconic BD Barcelona table; tapas bar downstairs.
Fairmont Peace Hotel – 20 Nanjing Road East (Bund, Huangpu); 011-86-021-6321-6888; built in 1929 by Victor Sasson (Cathay Hotel); Bund landmark recently renovated; lobby has stained glass rotunda; swimming pool under glass roof in spa; exhibition hall staffed by on-site curator.
Four Seasons – 500 Weihai Road (Pudong); 011-86-021-6256-8888 or 800-819-5053;; near Grand Theater; collection of eastern China art.
Grand Hyatt Shanghai – 88 Century Boulevard, 53rd-87th Floors (Pudong, at Jin Mao Tower); 011-86-021-5049-1234;
JIA Shanghai – 931 Nanjing Road West (Jing’an); 011-86-021-6217-9000;; small and intimate, with richly textured contemporary eclectic-Asian interior; generous rooms and perks; excellent restaurant.
Jin Jiang Hotel – 59 Maoming South Road (Luwan, French Concession); 011-86-021-3218-9888;
Langham Yangtze Boutique – 740 Hankou Road (Huangpu); 011-86-021-6080-0800;; 96 rooms in 1934 building.
Longemont Shanghai Hotel – 1116 Yan An Road West (Changning); 011-86-021-6115-9988;; 53-story blue tower; twisting interiors of glass, steel, aluminum; excellent food.
Park Hyatt Shanghai – 100 Century Avenue, 79th-93rd Floors (Lujiazui, Pudong); 011-86-021-6888-1234;; jaw-dropping views; minimal-luxe décor, several restaurants, impressive spa, and large rooms with big tubs; dream-like pool; try for Chairman Suite on 85th floor.
Peninsula – 32 Zhongshan Dongyi Road (Bund, Huangpu); 011-86-021-2327-2888;; ask for garden-view room on 7th floor for optimal cost-benefit ratio in this very expensive hotel; alternatively, 8th floor corner suite has tremendous Bund views; stunning indoor swimming pool.
Pudong Shangri-La – 33 Fucheng Road (Pudong); 011-86-021-6882-8888;; 2 modern towers overlooking waterfront; very pretty bar.
Puli Shanghai – 1 Changde Road (Jing’an); 011-86-021-3203-9999;; boutique property that blends traditional Chinese features with modern style.
Ritz-Carlton Hotel – 1376 Nanjing West Road (Jing’an); 011-86-021-6279-8888;
Le Royal Meridien – 789 Nanjing East Road (Huangpu); 011-86-021-3318-9999;; Art Deco inspired; 770 rooms; floor-to-ceiling windows; marble bathrooms; comfortable beds; 2 excellent restaurants, Ai Mei and Allure; September-October best; Grand Deluxe Bund view rooms are significant upgrade for relatively small increased cost.
Ruijin Hotel – 118 Ruijin 2nd Road (Luwan, French Concession); 011-86-021-6472-5222;; state-run guesthouse; Mao and Nixon both stayed here; modest, but comfortable and well-run.
Waldorf Astoria – 2 Zhong Shan Dongyi Road (Huangpu); 011-86-021-6322-9988;; in old Shanghai Club space; inherited “Long Bar,” which has been restored.
Waterhouse at South Bund – 1-3 Maojiayuan Road (Huangpu); 011-86-021-6080-2988;; Shanghai hotels tend toward vertical and voluptuous, but this breaks mold, starting with austere lobby (exposed brick walls, steel beams, stone floors); 19-room hotel housed in low-slung 1930s warehouse on city’s iconic, Bund Promenade’s southern part; guest rooms blend rough concrete ceilings with blond-wood floors, while Huangpu River-facing windows flood them with natural light; ask for Room 35, Bund Junior Suite (grand French windows and relaxing river vistas); be sure to catch Shanghai’s version of Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood (Moganshan art district, old warehouse cluster along Suzhou Creek transformed into minimalist galleries and studios).

Ai Mei – 789 Nanjing East Road (Huangpu, at Le Royal Meridien); 011-86-021-3318-9999;; famous for dim sum; enter through door made of fish tanks.
Allure – 789 Nanjing East Road (Huangpu, at Le Royal Meridien); 011-86-021-3318-9999;; worth detour; roasted lobster with risotto, beef tenderloin with goose liver.
Annion Kitchen – 550 Shaanxi Nan Lu, #37 (French Concession, at Jia Shan Market); 011-86-021-3428-1855;; Korean food.
Bund 18 – 18 Zhongshan East Road, 4th Floor (Bund, Huangpu); 011-86-021-6323-7066;; masterful blend post-modern and preservation aesthetic.
Café Sambal – 550 Shaanxi Nan Lu, #37 (French Concession, at Jia Shan Market); 011-86-021-3368-9529; café; Malaysian; emphasizes healthy, light cooking.
Chinoise Story – 59 Maoming South Road (Luwan, French Concession, at Jin Jiang Hotel); 011-86-021-6445-1717;; elegant; starkly modern take on Shanghainese cuisine.
Citizen Café & Bar – 222 Jinxian Road (French Concession); 011-86-021-6258-1620;; among old lane houses and tree-lined streets.
Crystal Jade – Xinye Road, 6-7 South Block, Lane 123 (Xintiandi); 011-86-021-6385-8752; Cantonese restaurant in new mall in restored “lane house” district; try shrimp har kow, steamed soup dumplings, or pan-fried turnip cakes.
Colagreco – 3 Zhong Shan Dongyi Road (Bund, Huangpu); 011-86-021-5308-5396;; banquettes have river views; notable for Argentinian and Uruguayan beef dishes.
Die Yuan – 70 Taicang Road (Luwan); 011-86-021-5383-7338; literally translates to Butterfly Garden; Shanghainese cuisine.
Din Tai Fung – 18 Shuicheng Road (Heping Square); 011-86-021-6208-2488;; excellent café chain that elevates street food into something elegant; try xiaolong bao (soup dumplings).
FU 1039 – 1039 Yu Yuan Road (Changning); 011-86-021-5237-1878; Shanghai’s best traditional food served in elegant villa, with garden entrance; many floors divided into private rooms.
Harbour Plaza – Taicang Road (Xintiandi, Lane 181, Unit C, #17); 011-86-021-6387-6777; known for Peking Duck.
Issimo – 931 Nanjing Road West (Jing’an, at JIA Shanghai); 011-86-021-6217-9000; excellent Italian food.
Kommune – 210 TaiKang Road, Yard, #7 (Tian Zi Fang); 011-86-021-6466-2416; café and wine bar nestled among Shanghai’s traditional old lanes inside quaint courtyard; in Taikang Lu, innovative art district; prides itself on making simple delicious food: salads, pasta, focaccias and ciabattas, falafels, and Barista trained staff; sit back and relax under shade; famous for Wednesday Great Ozzie BBQ, Sunday Big Breakfast, delicious sandwiches, and pies.
Lost Heaven – 38 Gaoyou Road (French Concession); 011-86-021-6433-5126;; food from around southern Yunnan province; try sea bass with black bean sauce or Yunnan chicken salad with chili and sesame.
M on Bund – 5 Zhongshan Dongyi Road, 7/F (Bund, at corner Guangdong Lu); 011-86-021-6350-9988;
Melange Oasis – 550 Shaanxi Nan Lu, #37 (French Concession, at Jia Shan Market); 011-86-021-6433-7727;; art-filled café built entirely of compressed bamboo; couscous and risotto dishes with seasonal organic vegetables from local farms and in-house jams.
Mercato – 3 Zhong Shan Dongyi Road (Bund, Huangpu); 011-86-021-6323-3355;; Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s 1st Italian restaurant.
Mr. & Mrs. Bund – 18 Zhong Shan Dongyi Road (Bund Huangpu); 011-86-159-6323-9898;; James Bondian suavity in decor and design meets Shanghai-Western fusion; try Foie Gras Opera (foie gras, pork, passion fruit, and chocolate).
Old Film Café – 123 Doulun Road (Hongkou); 011-86-021-5696-4763; with golden age Shanghai cinema as theme, this place makes for pleasant pit stop when touring Duolun Road area; vintage Chinese movie stars photos and classic 1930s film screenings.
100 Century Avenue Restaurant – 100 Century Avenue, 91st Floor (Lujiazui, Pudong, at Park Hyatt Hotel); 011-86-021-6888-1234;; open for dinner and drinks from 5:30-10:30 pm.
Otto E Mezzo Bombana (8 1/2) – Yuanmingyuan Road (Huangpu); 011-86-021-6087-2890;; Italian-Western; hidden inside 6th floor historically preserved building.
1931 – 112 Mao Ming Nan Road (Huangpu); 011-86-021-6472-5264; tiny, romantic restaurant whose atmosphere evokes 1930s Shanghai; great wonton soup.
Secret Garden – 333 Chang Le Road (French Concession); 011-86-021-5405-0789; 3-floor oasis; beautiful garden filled with young Chinese dining on imaginative Cantonese-style cuisine; must have mango custard in shape of koi for dessert.
Shang Hai Tang – Tai Cang Road, Lane 181, 15 Xintiandi North Block (Xintiandi); 011-86-021-6384-1601;; life-style brand store cafe.
Sir Elly’s Rooftop Restaurant – 32 Zhongshan Dongyi Road (Bund, Huangpu, at Peninsula Hotel); 011-86-021-2327-2888;; best Bund views.
Song Fang Maison de The – 227 Yongjia Road (Xuhui); 011-86-021-6433-8283;; boutique and teahouse run by former Veuve Cliquot China general manager.
3 on Bund – 3 Zhong Shan Dongyi Road (Bund, Huangpu); 011-86-021-6323-3355;; seek reservation at upper cupola at 3 on Bund; 2-tiered dome atop 1916 landmark building seats just 2 and commands 360-degree views of Bund’s Neoclassical architecture and futuristic, neon-streaked skyline of Pudong; request extra portions of decadent chocolate cake and chestnut-rum foam.
Table #1 – 1-3 Maojiayuan Road (Bund, Huangpu, at Waterhouse Hotel); 011-86-021-6080-2918;; restaurant on roof-top, above Huang Pu River; serves communally served, cutting-edge dishes like smoked beet-root with mascarpone, tarragon, and walnuts to urbane and well-heeled clientele.
Xian Qiang Fang – 600 Jiu Jiang Road (Pudong); 011-86-021-6351-5757;; restaurant that doubles as Chinese opera theater; audience laughs and talks while Shanghainese dishes like tea-leaf-smoked duck and braised diced pork are served.
Yang’s Fry Dumplings – 54-60 Wujiang Road (Jing’an); not much more than street stall but great dumplings; soupy; bite small hole and slurp out juices.
Ye Shanghai – 338 South Huang Pi Nan Road (Xintiandi North, House #6, North Block); 011-86-021-6311-2323;; housed in old-style, Shikumen houses, made of grey bricks with red stripes; try to sit upstairs (not always open); in evenings, sometimes Chinese jazz singer performs; well-presented, good food.
Yi Cafe – 33 Fucheng Road (Pudong, at Pudong Shangri-La); 011-86-021-6882-8888;; 10 open-air kitchens serving American, Chinese, European, Japanese & Middle Eastern food.
Yongfoo Elite – 200 Yongfu Road (Xuhui); 011-86-1-5466-2727;; in former British Embassy; among most memorable food in Shanghai.

Dragonfly – 458 Dagu Road (Jing’an); 011-86-021-6327-1193;; spa.

Art + Shanghai – 22 Fumin Lu, House 2 (Jing’an, near Yanan Lu); 011-86-021-6248-4388;; showcasing both emerging and established contemporary artists; must see works by Shi Zhi Ying, who paints in hyper-realistic, monochromatic style.
Cha Gang – 70 Yong Fu Road (French Concession); 011-86-021-6437-3104;; minimalist designer boutique.
Mary Ching Boutique – Ferguson Lane, 376 WuKang Road, Boutique 106 (Xuhui); 011-86-54-652-335;; high concept women’s fashion.
Dongtai Lu Antiques Market – Dongtai Road (Xintiandi); 011-86-021-6439-3615; tricky to find actual antiques.
Exception – 224-4 Xingye Road, 2nd Floor, Xintiandi South Block (Xintiandi); 011-86-021-5382-3067;; beautiful raw-wood and buffed-tile store that features elegant, earth-toned, all-natural women’s wear.
French Concession – Luwan; to walk this area, begin at Shaanxi and Shaoxing Roads’ intersection; head east, strolling down Shaoxing Road, past Vienna Cafe and Old China Hand Reading Room; left at Ruijin Road (lined with gardens, mansions, and old villas); stop by Taikang Road and visit area called Tianzifang (corridor series that houses bars, coffee shops, galleries, and restaurants).
Hong Merchant – Xing Guo Road, 3 Lane 372, House #3 (Xuhui, Cross Wukang Road); 011-86-021-6283-2696; (search for Hong Merchant Gallery); by appointment only; antiques.
Jiashan Market – #37, 550 Shaanxi Nan Lu (French Concession); 011-86-021-5465-9519;; mixed-use community built out of recycled materials.
Lao Zhou’s – 152 & 204 Jinxian Road (Pudong); 011-86-136-8191-6036; old Shanghai-style antiques, furniture and knick-knacks.
Lohasly – #37, 550 Shaanxi Nan Lu (French Concession, at Jia Shan Market); 011-86-021-6426-0526;; organic rice and teas.
O Blu – 1266 Nanjing Xi Road, Shop 428, Plaza 66 (Jing’an, near Xikang Road); 011-86-10-6288-9367;; high-end, multi-brand denim products; also sells Shanghai Watch brand watches (re-issue of watches Mao, etc., once wore).
O Blu – 8 Century Avenue, B1 Floor (Pudong); 011-86-021-5012-0715;; high-end, multi-brand denim products; also sells Shanghai Watch brand watches (re-issue of watches Mao, etc., once wore).
Old China Hand Reading Room – 27 Shaoxing Road (Luwan, French Concession); 011-86-021-6473-2526; opened in 1996 by photographer Deke Erh; 100s new and old, obscure and popular, books and magazines; best place to purchase books on colonial Chinese architecture (put out by Deke Erh and Tess Johnston); reading room open 10 am to midnight.
One by One – 141-10 & 141-12 Changle Road (Huangpu); 011-86-021-5306-3280; modern “conceptual” fashion design.
One by One – 143 Xinle Road (Xuhui); 011-86-021-5306-3280; modern “conceptual” fashion design.
Oneinabillion – 201 Taicang Road, #101 (Luwan); 011-86-136-0192-7777; Korean propaganda posters.
Qui Hao – 245 Madang Road, #237, F2 (Luwan); 011-86-021-3331-2627;; women’s design; high fashion.
Shang Xia – 283 Huaihai Middle Road, #SL1-01, F1, South Tower, Hong Kong Plaza (Huangpu); 011-86-021-6390-8899;; Hermes’ Chinese line.
Shang Hai Tang – Taicang Road, 15 Xintiandi North Block, Lane 181 (Xintiandi); 011-86-021-6384-1601;; full life-style brand store, complete with cafe.
Shang Hai Watch – 158 Xinle Road (Xuhui); 011-86-021-5404-3808;; relaunch of Mao’s favorite watch line.
ShanghArt – 50 Moganshan Road, Buildings 16 & 18 (Huangpu); 011-86-021-6359-3923;; contemporary art.
Shi Zhi Ying – near ShanghArt Warehouse (Huangpu, 50 Moganshan Road, Buildings 16 & 18); 011-86-136-6171-2955; artist’s personal studio; beautiful, monochromatic paintings in hyper-realism style; by appointment only.
Song Fang Maison de The – 227 Yongjia Road (Xuhui); 011-86-021-6433-8283;; boutique and teahouse run by former Veuve Cliquot China general manager.
Spin – 758 Julu Road, Building 3 (French Concession); 011-86-021-6279-2545; contemporary ceramics.
Uma Wang – L229, 245 Madang Road (Xintiandi, near Zizhong Raod); 011-86-021-3331-5109;; designer sweaters; beautiful.

Sights & Sites
Bund History Museum – 500 Zhongshan Dongyi Lu (Bund, Huangpu, in Huangpu Park); 011-86-021-5308-8987.
Bund Sightseeing Tunnel – Huangpu to Pudong; entrances are at 300 Zhongshan East No. 1 Road (Bund, at Nanjing Donglu) and 2789 Bingjiang Road (in Pudong, near Riverside Promenade); Disney-esque ride from Bund area (look for sign across from Peace Hotel on Nanjing Road East) to Pudong district; silver pod will shuttle you across Huangpu River, through extravagant flashing, pulsing, and spiraling lighs, blow-up dolls, and voiceovers.
Doulun Lu – Hongkou; Doulun Road Cultural Street; history-studded, pedestrian street.
Fuyang – 1.5 hours by train.
Hangzhou – 1 hour by train.
League of Left Wing Writers – 2 Lane 201 (Hongkou, off Doulun Lu); protected, neo-classical-style building that once was modernist movement headquarters.
Long Museum – 210, Lane 2255, Luoshan Road (Pudong); 011-86-021-6877-8787;
Long Museum Puxi Branch – 3398 Longteng Avenue (West Bund Cultural Corridor); 011-86-021-6877-8787;
Lu Xun Park – 146 Dongjiangwan Lu (Hongkou); well-established local hangout for card-playing, singing, and swimming; also museum for writer, Lu Xun.
Memorial of Site of 1st National Congress of Communist Party of China – 76 Xinye Road (Xintiandi); where Chinese communism founded in 1923.
Nanshi (Old City) – Baodai Long (Huangpu, just southwest of Bund); formerly known as Chinese City; traditional urban core, formerly defined by defensive wall; with its narrow winding streets & old houses, still among lesser-explored areas; can walk focusing mainly on Old Town Bazaar (bounded by Renmin Lu, Henan Nan Lu, Fangbang Zhong Lu & Zhonghua Lu); to avoid congestion, begin at Henan Nan Lu & Fangbang Zhong Lu intersection (Old Town Bazaar, southwest side), where pass through traditional-style Chinese gate; enter (1) Shanghai Lao Jie (Shanghai Old Street) – renovated as Old Town theme street; traditional shop houses, selling antiques, collectibles, ethnic crafts & tea, architecture reflecting styles from Ming through Qing Dynasties into Chinese Republican era; just inside entrance & immediately to left is (2) Fuyou Antiques Market/Cang Bao Lou – best & liveliest antiques market for browsing in Shanghai with 4 floors vendors (from ceramics & coins to jewelry & Russian cameras); continue east, to 2nd block after Houjia Lu intersection, 2-story Old Shanghai Teahouse (Fangbang Zhong Lu 385) for juice or tea; continue east past Yu Fashion Center & Dragon Gate Mall to right until Si Pai Lou (street on right) with its (3) Food Stalls & Lane Housing – ordinary Chinese daily life; head to Fangbang Zhong Lu & west (left) past Anren Jie, where, on north side of street is stone arch entrance of (4) Chenghuang Miao (Town God Temple) – Daoist temple, rebuilt many times since early-15th Century; exit temple & zigzag north by following lane along west side temple to (5) Curiosity Stores – novelty stores such as Pear Syrup Shop (selling old China answer to cough drops) & 5 Flavor Bean Shop (selling famous Shanghai snack, wuxiang dou (5-flavor lima beans) right next to Starbucks; by now, in main square with teahouse on artificial lake to north; to get there, follow (6) Bridge of 9 Turnings (Jiu Qu Qiao) – zigzag bridge supposed to be propitious as demons afraid of corners; bridge leads to (7) Huxingting (Mid-Lake Pavilion) Teahouse (Yuyuan Lu 257) – more than 200 years-old & Shanghai’s most famous place to drink tea; (8) Nanxiang Mantou Dian – for more substantial repast on Shanghai dumplings & noodle dishes; on north side lake is main entrance to (9) Yu Yuan (Yu Garden, see below); exit at southern Inner Garden (Nei Yuan) & back to Huxinting Teahouse by walking west 1 block on Yuyuan Lu (whole northwest bazaar complex is large & small stores selling everything from gems to medicinal herbs; left onto (10) Small Commodities Street (Xiaoshangpin Jie) – along this street (Yuyuan Lao Lu) shops specializing in everything from chopsticks & musical instruments to bamboo crafts & scissors; at northern end of street, left onto Fuyou Lu (west), passing Shanghai Old Restaurant, then another left (south) down Jiujiaochang Lu; west of Tong Han Chuan Tang Chinese Medicine Store, right (west) onto Chenxiangge Lu, where find (11) Chenxiang Ge Temple (Chenxiangge Lu 29); continue west along Chenxiangge Lu, taking left (south) onto Houjia Lu, then right (west) onto Zihua Lu, at end of which is Henan Nan Lu, marking Old Town Bazaar western boundary; cross Henan Nan Lu, then jog slightly north and turn left (west) onto Dajing Lu; all down street are (12) Dajing Lu Markets – makeshift markets and smaller stalls selling everything from fresh fish and meats to spices, tea, and tofu; farther west on north side of street is (13) Baiyun Guan (White Cloud Daoist Temple, Dajing Lu 239) – inside this Daoist temple, identifiable by red walls, are 100s Daoist deity statues; west of temple on same side street is (14) Ancient City Wall (Guchengqiang Dajing Ge, Dajingge Lu 269) – only remaining stretch (164') old city wall, originally built in 1553; about 20 minutes by foot to south is optional detour (15) Wen Miao (Confucius Temple), Xiaotaoyuan Qingzhen Si (Peach Orchard Mosque), and more back streets and alleys for exploring; and (16) Winding Down – Yunnan Lu Meishi Jie (Yunnan Lu Food Street), only quick 2 blocks north of old city wall, packed with bright & lively Chinese restaurants.
Power Station of Art – 200 Huayuangang Road (Huangpu); 011-86-021-3110-8550;; modeled on Tate Modern.
Rock Bund Area – near Suzhou Creek (Huangpu); cobblestone streets among turn-of-century buildings.
Rock Bund Art Museum – 20 Huqiu Road (Huangpu); 011-86-021-3310-9985;; among city’s best exhibitions; modern art.
Shanghai Art Museum – 161 Shangnan Road (Pudong); 011-86-021-6327-2425; or; calligraphy to modern painting.
Shanghai Biennial & Museum of Contemporary Art – 231 Nanjing Road West (Jing’an); 011-86-021-6327-9900;
Shanghai Museum – 201 Renmin Avenue (Huangpu); 011-86-021-6372-5300;; important repository of ancient Chinese art (bronzes, calligraphy, ceramics, jade, and paintings).
Shanghai World Financial Center – 100 Century Boulevard (Pudong); 100th floor observation deck; restaurant (over-top) on 91st floor.
3 on Bund – 3 Zhongshan Dongyi Road (Huangpu); 011-86-021-6323-3355;; large mall.
Wanshang Flower & Bird Market – 405 Xizang Road (Xintiandi, by Huaihai Road); 011-86-021-6336-3530; in addition to birds and flowers, cages of chirruping crickets.
Xian Qiang Fang – 600 Jiu Jiang Road (Pudong); 011-86-021-6351-5757;; restaurant that doubles as Chinese opera theater; audience laughs and talks while Shanghainese dishes like tea-leaf-smoked duck and braised diced pork are served.
Yu Yuan Garden – 137 Anren Street (Huangpu); 011-86-021-6326-0830;; 5-acre garden consists of 6 sections separated by boundary walls: Grand Rockery; 10K-Flower Pavilion; Heralding Spring Hall; Jade Magnificence Hall; Inner Garden; and Lotus Pool.
Yuz Museum – Xuhui;‎; scheduled to open in May 2014.

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