Tuesday, June 21, 2011


(does not include Corfu or Crete; includes Chios, Hydra, Ios, Ithaca, Kefalonia, Kythera, Lesbos, Mykonos, Paros, Patmos, Paxos, Rhodes, Samos & Santorini)

Yachts of Seabourn – 300 Elliott Avenue West (Seattle, WA); 800-929-9391; seabourn.com.

Vrika – north end; turquoise waters & white sand; 2 tavernas that do lively lunchtime trade; path leads to other beach.
Voutoumi – north end; more secluded; high above Voutoumi beach (reached by 200 steps) is Bella Vista taverna with best view of all; also excellent taverna behind beach, serving local dishes & good selection fresh fish; Paxos bans visitors from bringing sunbeds & umbrellas to Antipaxos but can rent them from tavernas.
Sights & Sites
Slump Folds – zone of about 2000 m, on island’s eastern end; exposed, deformed Oligocene carbonate sediments; rock deformation generally requires immense tectonic forces (including hear & pressure) to buckle, distort, fold, & stretch rocks into bizarre contortions; there are, however, conditions in which folds can form on Earth’s surface relatively easily & this is what happened at Antipaxos; these are syn-sedimentary slump folds, meaning, formed by strata deformation while still, essentially, mud on Oligocene sea bottom; in addition to this amazing slump fold, geologic interests for traveler to Antipaxos include numerable maritime caves with arched entrances, vertical rock spire jutting out of Ionian, excellent beaches for sand analyses & some very remarkable local wines.

Kechrimpari – 7 Agios Anargiros (Chios Town); 011-30-69-4242-5459; excellent food at reasonable prices.

HYDRA (90 minutes from Athens by hydrofoil; no cars allowed on island)
Bars & Nightclubs
Pirate Bar & Café – harbor; 011-30-22-9805-2711; piratebar.gr; drinks; also breakfast and ice cream.
Limioniza – remote beach on island’s uninhabited south side; easiest to take water taxi (walking takes several hours).
Hotels & Houses
Bratsera – Tombazi Street (Harbor); 011-30-22-9805-3971; bratserahotel.com; former sponge factory founded in 1860; 23 rooms with stone walls and white urns; pool; cypress, jacaranda, and oleander garden; open-air restaurant; ask for Virani Suite (on top floor with ironwork bed and hand-painted friezes).
George Petrides Villas – 011-30-22-9805-3283 or 011-30-21-0363-5411 (fax); 2 villas (Julie & Christie) furnished with French brass beds and Turkish rugs; large stone pool and prime harbor view; can also seek information through Bratsera hotel.
Hotel Miranda – 2 Miaouli (Port); 011-30-22-9805-3953; hydra.com.gr/Miranda/en-index.html; converted sea captain’s mansion, now bohemian guest house with 14 suites.
Hotel Orloff – 9 Rafalia Street; 011-30-22-9805-2564; orloff.gr; Russian diplomat built in 1796; 9-room hotel; filled with family antiques; Room 1 is largest and has prettiest furnishing mix; no pool or restaurant but beautiful garden (jasmine and lemon trees).
Gitoniko Restaurant – Spilios Haramis; 011-30-22-9805-3615; classic Greek dishes and grilled fish is excellent; service personal and refined.
Pirate Bar & Café – harbor; 011-30-22-9805-2711; piratebar.gr; drinks; also breakfast and ice cream.
Elena Votsi – Ikonomou Street; 011-30-22-9805-2637; elenavotsi.com; jewelry.
Hydra Workshops – Port (in old ship repair garage); owned by Pauline Karpidas; art gallery.
Sights & Sites
Deste Foundation for Contemporary Art – Eparchiaki Odos Mandrakiou-Molou; 011-30-21-0275-8490; deste.gr; contemporary art.
Hydra School Projects – Sachtourio High School; 011-30-693-802-4554; art exhibition location.
Slaughterhouse – Port; 011-30-21-0275-8490; deste.gr; art exhibition location.

Liostasi Ios Hotel & Spachora (main village); 011-30-22-8609-2140; liostasi.gr; 5 stars; gorgeous.
Katogichora (main village); 011-30-69-7659-8659; facebook.com/katogios; small restaurant with handful tables, surrounded by tree with lights in it and candles everywhere; try fried feta in honey and sesame sauce, “pop-eye” salad (with bacon, grated gruyere, and balsamic dressing), “pasta purses” (ravioli-type pasta) filled with pear puree and cheese, pork bites in honey sauce, delicious couscous salad, meatballs in creamy spinach sauce, and crusty bread to soak up all sauces.
Sights & Sites
Homer’s Tomb – Plakato Beach area (north side island).

Sights & Sites
Melissani Cave – northwest of Sami, about 5 km SE of Agia Efthymia, NE of Argostoli & NW of Poros (Ionian Sea lies to east with Strait of Ithaca); kefaloniavisit.com/en/attractions/limni_melissanis; forests surround cave & mountain slope is to west; near cave is entry to cave with parking lots (middle of main road linking Sami & Agia Efimia).

Fyri Ammos.
Venardos Hotel – Agia Pelagia; 011-30-27-3603-4100; venardos-hotels.gr; serves hand-made, whole wheat paximadia for breakfast.
Villa Mitata – Mitata; 011-30-27-3603-1881 or 011-30-69-7431-0490; kythirahouse.com.
Filio – Kalamos; 011-30-27-3603-1549; kythera.gr/en/whattodo/filio.php; owners grow own herbs and vegetables; small vineyard where grow indigenous grape, Arikara (characteristic red wine); try stuffed zucchini flowers, eggplant with xinochontro (Greek couscous).
Magos – Kapsali; 011-30-27-3603-1407; kithera.gr/en/goout/kythira-restaurants/magos; order kakavia (Kytherian bouillabaisse).
Manolis – Diakofti; 011-30-27-3603-3748; visitkythera.gr/en/activities/food/manolis.html; on waterfront.
Michalis – Mitata; 011-30-27-3603-3626; kythera.gr/en/whattodo/michalis.php; some of most savory pies and alaniari (free range rooster in tomato sauce with Greek pasta).
Mirodia Kalokairiou – Avlemonas; 011-30-69-7708-1023; kythira-greek.gr/index.php?topic=client&clid=1; waterside location.
Skandia – Paleopoli; 011-30-27-3603-3700; kythera.gr/en/whattodo/skandia.php; built in old vineyard & is near archaeological space, in front of Paleopoli Beach.
Sotiris – Avlemonas; 011-30-27-3603-3722; kythera.gr/en/whattodo/sotiris-fish-tavern.php; tavern in picturesque, seaside village; seafood.
Toxotis – Kapsali (Livadi); 011-30-27-3603-1780; kithera.gr/en/goout/kythira-restaurants/toxotis; locally grown products.
Meli Gala – Mitata; 011-30-27-3603-3010 or 011-30-69-7835-0952; aplynori.gr; thyme honey and cheese products.
Sights & Sites
Cultural Center – Potamos; visitkythera.gr/en/attractions/villages/potamos.html.
Milopotamos – village on main square on which cafes serve locally renowned desserts; visit after seeing old Venetian fortress nearby and waterfalls.

Ermis – 2 Kornarou Street (at Ermis Street); 011-30-22-5102-6232; try mint-spiked meatballs and white beans with dill-tomato-cucumber salad.

Kastanas – south of Pollonia; feelgreece.com/en/kastanas-beach; nudist; notable for vibrant, rainbowlike rock formations.

Bars & Nightclubs
Ai Yianni – Agios Ioannis Beach (most westernmost beach); 011-30-22-8902-3547; inmykonos.com/eat-in-mykonos/restaurants/1526-ai-yiannis-sunset.html; go at sunset.
Astra Bar – 3 Enoplon Dynameon Street (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-4767; astra.org.gr/main; boîte designed in late 1980s; fiber-optic “starlight” ceiling that pulses to music; gem has lost none of its luster; still packs in models, magnates, rock stars, Formula One drivers, and even recent Miss Greece or 2; party can go until dawn; 15-euro cover includes 1 drink.
Cavo Paradiso – Paradise Beach; 011-30-22-8902-7205; cavoparadiso.gr; among world’s “mythic” dance clubs; perched 100' above sea.
Pierro’s Bar – Matoyanni Street (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-2177; pierrosbar.gr; nightly Gay Pride party.
Porta – Paraportiani (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-7087; mykonostour.com/gay_bars/porta.html; reaches peak crowd around 1 am; gay.
Agios Sostis – tranquil, semi-remote, off Panormos Bay.
Elia Beach – eclipsing Paradise as “super-cool” beach; very gay; very loud disco music.
Paradise Beach – famous gay beach; lots of disco music at beachside restaurants.
Psarou Beach – beautiful; Psarou also features such vital amenities as day spa, hair salon, and chic boutique Luisa outpost (called Luisa Beach, 011-30-22-8902-2015), just in case someone left her Missoni gown in plane’s overhead compartment.
Apanema Resort – Tagoo; 011-30-22-8902-5902; apanemaresort.com.
Cavo Tagoo – Tagoo; 011-30-22-8902-3692; cavotagoo.gr; minimalist white rooms; terrific sunset views; 80 minimalist rooms.
Hotel Belvedere – School of Fine Arts District (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-5122; belvederehotel.com; gated compound with lively pool; beautiful people playground.
Hotel Semeli – Ronari (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-7466; semelihotel-mykonos.com; favorite with return visitors.
Mykonos Theoxenia Hotel – Kato Mili (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-2230; mykonostheoxenia.com; standing between windmills and sand, blue crystal waters and narrow, cobblestoned streets; restored; 52 rooms revisit 60s, with Pop canvases and retro furniture playing off stark-white stone buildings that glow in afternoon sun; watch moon rise over Delos from deserted Kapari Beach; concierge will take care of details, including speedboat to bring you back to hotel.
Santa Marina – Ornos Bay; 011-30-22-8902-3220; luxurycollection.com/santamarina; beautiful pool.
Hotel Belvedere – School of Fine Arts District (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-5122; belvederehotel.com; nexus of international gastronomy; while sushi slung at Nobu Matsuhisa’s restaurant on 1 side Belvedere’s romantically lantern-lit pool deck, celebrity chefs turn up heat at Club Belvedere; breezy white-&-teak dining room spills out of main building and provides festive environment for updated, family-style meals.
Kiki’s – above Agios Sostis beach; inmykonos.com/eat-in-mykonos/taverns/1520-kiki.html; no signs or telephone; sweeping ocean view; famous for barbecue; 1 of island’s best kept secrets; open only for lunch; wait as long as it takes for seat at what may be 1 of world’s most idyllic seaside restaurants; simple, rustic fare: salads of lentils and artichokes or pasta with tuna and cherry tomatoes, grilled octopus or succulent chicken breast stuffed with feta and sun-dried tomatoes.
Nammos – Psarou Beach; 011-30-22-8902-2440; nammos.gr; over-top restaurant; good for lunch; try grilled lobster; amazing homemade tagliatelle with scorpion fish.
Panormos Beach Bar & Restaurant – Panormos Beach; 011-30-22-8902-7640; panormosbeach.gr; on bay on northern coast.
Raya – Old Port (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-8223; raya-mykonos.com; breakfast; near International Press News Stand.
Te Maerio – Kalogera Street (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-8825; inmykonos.com/eat-in-mykonos/restaurants/1460-to-maerio.html; straightforward fare; clean; simple; try crispy zucchini fritters, rich tzatziki (crunchy with cucumber) and/or savory keftedes.
Uno con Carne – Panachra (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-4020; unoconcarne.gr; Argentine steakhouse in art deco space.
International Press News Stand – Kambani Street (Old Port); mykonostour.com/mykonos_shopping/press.html; all magazines and papers.
Karkalis – 17 Matoyanni (Mykonos Town); 011-30-22-8902-4022; gold.gr; jewelry.
Luisa Beach – Psarou Beach; 011-30-22-8902-2015; chic boutique.

Asteras Paradise – near Naoussa; 011-30-22-8405-2623; asterasparadise.com; lovely.
Papadakis – waterfront Naoussa; 011-30-22-8405-1047; freshest fish.
Studio Yria – Kostos; 011-30-22-8402-9007; yriaparos.com; ceramics.

Bars & Nightclubs
Cafe Aman – Skala; 011-30-22-4703-2323; in most scenic part of port; meeting place; kitchen open 10:00-22:00; cocktails in evening.
George’s Place – Kampos Beach; 011-30-22-4703-1881; gogobot.com/georges-place-skala-patmos-attraction; beach bar with inventive drinks.
Pyrgos Barchora (main village).
Psili Ammos.
Archontarikichora (main village); 011-30-22-4702-9368; archontariki-patmos.gr; 17th Century mansion with 4 suites.
Patmos Housechora (main village); patmoshouse.eu; 18th Century house in upper town; arched terrace overlooks main town; simple and very stylish.
Petra – Grikos; 011-30-22-4703-4020; petrahotel-patmos.com; island’s most luxurious boutique hotel with great views.
Benetos Restaurant – Sapsilla; 011-30-22-4703-3089; benetosrestaurant.com; Mediterranean fare using local ingredients on small farm overlooking sea; open June through October.
Cafe Aman – Skala; 011-30-22-4703-2323; in most scenic part of port; meeting place; kitchen open 10:00-22:00; cocktails in evening.
Leonidas – Lampi; 011-30-22-4703-3232; patmosweb.gr/leonidas_en.htm; great hillside spot for fresh fish.
Tzivaeri – Skala; 011-30-22-4703-1170; patmos-island.com/food/tzivaeri; tavern with good mezedes and balcony overlooking sea; local musicians often play.
Vegghera Restaurant – Skala; 011-30-22-4703-2988; patmos-island.com/food/vegghera‎; seasonal menu with unusual dishes.

Bakeries, Coffee, Ice Cream, Juice & Tea
Taxidi Bar – Loggos; 011-30-26-6203-1326; facebook.com/pages/Taxidi-bar-Loggos-Paxos/181885377343; ice cream.
Bars & Nightclubs
Phoenix Disco Club – Gaios; 011-30-26-6203-2210; paxos-greece.com/phoenix_disco.htm; beautifully situated on hill on south side Gaios, overlooking Ionian Sea and the Panayia Island; set among paved, sheltered terraces; outside bar surrounded by bougainvilleas, cypresses, and palm trees; inside, another bar, disc jockey studio, and large dance floor.
Taxidi Bar – Loggos; 011-30-26-6203-1326; facebook.com/pages/Taxidi-bar-Loggos-Paxos/181885377343; adults can sip ouzo, while children enjoy fresh fruit ice cream; live music.
Levrechio Beach.
Taverna Bouloukos – Levrechio Beach (Loggos); 011-30-26-6203-1336; good for lunch, with tremendous taramosalata).
Taverna Vassilis – seafront (Loggos); 011-30-26-6203-1587; marble-topped tables mere feet from water; great food.
Scott Williams – Rectory Lane (Somerset, Wincanton, at Charlton House); 011-44-19-633-3046; scottwilliams.co.uk; arranges extraordinary homes for weekly rents.
Spiantzi House – Loggos; scottwilliams.co.uk/property_details.cfm?v_id=191; use Scott Williams (above); on elevated point, just steps from tiny beach and 10-minute stroll from town; dolphins frolic in view.

Melenos Lindos – Lindos; 011-30-22-4403-2222; melenoslindos.com; 12-rooms, whitewashed, quiet refuge; draws from area’s mixed artistic heritage – Arabic, Byzantine, Greek, Ottoman; hand-stenciled ceilings, beds carved by village craftsmen, and pathways paved in beach-pebble mosaics; cliffside tented terrace has uninterrupted views of 1 of island’s most spectacular harbors.

North Star Café – Agios Konstantinos; 011-30-22-7309-4015; samos-infos.com/north_star.

SANTORINI (includes Therassia)
Perivolos Beach – black volcanic pebble beach abutting clear water; excellent local tavernas.
Andromeda Gold Suites – Imerovigli; 011-30-22-8602-4844; andromedagoldsuites.com; opulent.
1864 Sea Captain’s House – Oia; 011-30-22-8607-1983; santorini-gr.com; 3 suites, each furnished with mix of antiques and local artists’ work; ask for upstairs, “Sailing Sea Suite,” with deck overlooking caldera; owner, Tony Mosiman, also co-owns 2 best restaurants in town (Ambrosia & Oia’s Café-Restaurant).
Grace Santorini – Imerovigli; 011-30-22-8602-1300; gracehotels.com/santorini; on cliffs overlooking Aegean Sea, ultra-chic, boutique hotel; accommodations range from stylish rooms to luxury villa.
Katikies Hotel – Oia 1A; 011-30-22-8607-1401; katikies.com; whitewashed buildings connected by pathways; each room like an apartment clinging to cliff; private verandas.
Lauda – Oia; 011-30-22-8607-1204; lauda-santorini.com; reasonably priced; built into caves.
Mystique – Oia; 011-30-22-8607-1114; luxurycollection.com/mystique; perched on cliff above sea.
Perivolas Hideaway – off Oia; 011-30-69-8569-3596; perivolashideaway.com; 5 bedroom villa with private bay; expensive.
Perivolas Traditional Houses – 011-30-22-8607-1308 or 888-728-4552 (Villas of World); perivolas.gr; cluster of 17 houses, some fashioned from 300 year-old caves; ultimate in elegant simplicity; view over caldera from infinity pool is amazing; book No. 17, with 15' ceiling.
Tsitouras Collection – 011-30-22-8602-3747; tsitouras.com; 5 themed houses decorated with antiques and art; ask for either House of Sea or House of Nureyev.
Vedema Resort – Megalohori; 011-30-22-8608-1796; luxurycollection.com/vedema.
Voreina Gallery Suites – Pyrgos; 011-30-22-8603-0700 or 011-30-22-8603-0164; voreinasuites.gr; lovely.
Zannos Melathron – Pyrgos; 011-30-22-8602-8220; zannos.gr; 1885 mansion atop hill; not in good location; if need to make flight, stay here because near airport.
Aktaion – Main Square (Firostefani); 011-30-22-8602-2336; aktaionsantorini.com; 80 year-old restaurant.
Ambrosia – Oia; 011-30-22-8607-1413; restaurant-ambrosia.com; owned by Tony Mosiman & Panayiotis Vassilopoulas; view overlooking caldera and romantically candle-lit; excellent fish soup.
Ampelos – Fabrica Centre (Fira); 011-30-22-8602-5554; ampelos.com.gr.
Dimitri – Oia, Ammoudi waterfront; seafood taverna.
1800 – Oia; 011-30-22-8607-1485; oia-1800.com; beautiful, formal restaurant in restored, sea-captain’s mansion; eggplant mousse with vegetables and goat cheese in basil yoghurt sauce; sometimes overly elaborate presentation.
Katina – Oia, Ammoudi Waterfront; 011-30-22-8607-1280; eatori.com/2011/08/katina-santorini.html; great sea bass and snapper; seafood tavern; can be expensive because priced by kilo; try to be there for sunset.
Koukoumavlos – Fira; 011-30-22-8602-3807; koukoumavlos.eu; uneven but ambitious.
Nectar & Ambrosia – Oia; 011-30-228-607-1504 or 011-30-693-708-1711; santorini-greece.info/oiascafe.htm; owned by Tony Mosiman and Panayiotis Vassilopoulas; great, Greek standards; pork loin sautéed with ginger is outstanding.
Roka – Oia; 011-30-22-8607-1896; roka.gr; traditional tavern with excellent food.
Svago – Perivolos Beach; 011-30-22-8608-1508; Italian restaurant.
Vanilla – Main Square (Firostefani); 011-30-22-8602-5631; vanilla.gr; among prettiest restaurants on island; try stuffed tomato (fava beans and calamari).
Bezant – Oia; 011-30-22-8607-1679; bezant.gr; jewelry.
Replica – Oia; 011-30-22-8607-1916; replica-artwork.gr; antiquity reproductions.
Sights & Sites
Akrotiri – Thira; 011-30-22-8608-1366; odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=2410; city settled in 4th Millennium BCE and buried in Thera explosion (1600 BCE).
Amoudi Bay – Oia; scenic small village on water.
Museum of Prehistoric Thira – Mitropoleos Street (Fira); 011-30-22-8602-3217; santonet.gr/museums.

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