Friday, June 24, 2011


(includes Ciudad Evita & Tigre Delta)


Las Violetas – 3899 Avenida Rivadavia; 011-54-11-4958-7387;; open since 1884; coffee house and restaurant; 1998 shuttering caused such uproar that within 6 weeks city gave historic protection to save; 2001 restoration; 3 19th Century stained-glass windows and marble bar; impossibly large María Cala and La Violetera tea services, replete with cookies, cakes, crustless sandwiches, and budín; registered bare notable.

Barrio Norte
Tea Connection – 2102 Arenales; 011-54-11-4823-9254;; Asian-inspired teas.

Gran Café Tortoni – 825/29 Avenida De Mayo; 011-54-11-4342-4328;; cannot not visit; important Porteño institution; historic cafe has served as city’s artistic and intellectual center since 1858 (and current location since 1890s); regulars include Jorge Luis Borges, Julio de Caro, Cátulo Castillo, and José Gobello; appointed in woods, stained glass, yellowing marble, and bronzes; perfect place for coffee or small snack when wandering along Avenida de Mayo; twice-nightly tango shows in cramped side gallery worth seeing; service and treating people well has never been Tortoni’s forte; registered bare notable.
Meraviglia – 5796 Gorriti; 011-54-11-4775-7949;; organic and vegetarian bakery goods.

Palermo (Costanera Norte, Hollywood, Villa Crespo, Palermo Viejo & Soho)
Un’Altra Volta – 3060 Libertador; 011-54-11-4783-4048;; coffee and ice cream shops with focus on light desserts.
Chungo – 1906 Humboldt; 011-54-800-888-2486;; try cucuruccino.
Jauja – 3901 Avenida Cervino; 011-54-11-4801-8126;; ice cream; try mousse del piltri.
Persicco – 2591 Salguero; 011-54-11-4801-5549;; modern café serving city’s best ice cream; comfortable chairs and free wireless access; try dulce de leche casero con brownie, dolcatta, or chocuquinna; place order at register and take receipt to ice cream counter to tell them what flavor you want; other locations around city.
Scannapieco – 5274 Avenida Nazca; 011-54-11-4587-8172;; among best ice creams anywhere; try dulce de leche that is consistency of melted cheese.
Tea Connection – 3550 Cerviño; 011-54-11-4807-5304;; Asian-inspired teas.

Puerto Madero
Un’ Altra Volta – 502 Quintana; 011-54-11-4783-4048;; gelateria.
Sirop Folie – 1661 Vincente Lopez; 011-54-11-4813-5900;; on quaint alley in upscale neighborhood; very British afternoon tea, including fresh scones, homemade marmalades, finger sandwiches, cakes, and tea; well-dressed families show up after 5 p.m.
Tea Connection – 1597 Uriburu; 011-54-11-4805-0616;; Asian-inspired teas.

San Telmo
Freddo – 901 Defensa; 011-54-0810-333-73336;; ice-cream parlor chain responsible for changing way ice cream experienced in Argentina; try crema tramontana.
Un Café Con Peron – 2593 Austria; 011-54-11-4802-8010;; inside presidential archive and research offices (Instituto Nacional Juan Domingo Peron); Juan Peron statue.

Ingrata – 168 Pasaje Lanin (Edificio Barracas Central); 011-54-11-4303-3663;; in renovated textile factory; wine bar and café with live music.
Señor Tango – 1655 Vieytes; 011-54-11-4303-0231;; flashy, Fosse-esque tango show that includes live horse.

Palermo (Costanera Norte, Hollywood, Villa Crespo, Palermo Viejo & Soho)
Bar 6 – 1676 Armenia; 011-54-11-4833-6807;; dramatic stone, wood, and glass space.
Carnal – 5511 Niceto Vega (at Humbolt); 011-54-11-4772-7582;; although need to arrive early, will often find street-level bar practically empty because in summer everyone’s on rooftop terrace. ●Bar du Marche – 596 Nicaragua (Palermo Viejo); 011-54-11-4778-1050;; on leafy street; ground-floor cafe & wine bar; private Japanese dining room hidden upstairs.

La Catedral – 4006 Sarmiento, 2nd Floor; 011-54-9-11-5325-1630; city’s most authentic tango dance hall; unassuming building; roof is high, with wooden beams; years of kitsch hang from them, most noticeable being giant, glowing heart that looms over bar.
Congo – 5329 Honduras (between Godoy Cruz & Juan B. Justo); 011-54-11-4833-5857; no sign; beside railroad, next to nightclub; queue outside plain, brown door; modest exterior conceals expansive interior with enormous outside space; retains original features (including old tree protruding through roof); among city’s best summer spots.
Experiencia Fin del Mundo – 5673 Honduras; 011-54-11-4852-6661;; affiliated with Bodega Fin del Mundo (Patagonian winery in Neuquen Province); wine tastings paired with small plates.
Guido’s Bar – 2843 Republica de la India; 011-54-11-4802-2391; holdout bodegon.
Lo de Joaquin Alberdi – 1772 Jorge Luis Borges; 011-54-11-4832-5329;; wine shop that offers affordable wine-tastings on Thursdays, paired with charcuterie and cheese plates.
Bar Isabel – 1664 Uriarte; 011-54-11-4834-6969;; next to Casa Cruz; famous as place to spot models; expensive, and purchased with Isabelitas, which are 25-peso poker chips that you buy when entering club; mix of mod funk and classics, with veneered 1940s style nightclub tables, edged with S&M studs, lit from above by orange-glowing mushroom lights; outside, fireplace patio is great place to chat.
Niceto Club – 5510 Niceto Vega; 011-54-11-4779-9396;
Ocho 7 Ocho – 878 Thames (Villa Crespo, between Aguirre & Loyala); 011-54-11-4773-1098; comfortable, dark; excellent cocktails.
Rumi – 6442 Avenida Figueroa Alcorta; 011-54-11-4782-1307; less intense setting (compared with other Costanera clubs); rich suburban socialites and occasional fashion models; electronica-pop music; 2 large bars surround dance floor and elevated booths.
Tequila – Avenida Rafael Obligado Costanera & La Pampa; 011-54-11-4781-6555; have to be on list to get in.
Thelonious Club – 1884 Jeronimo Salguero (1st Floor); 011-54-11-4829-1562;; vintage, battered bar that showcases local musicians.
Unik – 5132 Soler; 011-54-11-4772-2230;; 60' marble bar; after dinner hours (2:00 a.m.), can revel with cocktails and wine under large neon sculpture by Jiang Zhi.

Puerto Madero
Library Lounge – 445 Martha Salotti; 011-54-11-4010-9000;; in Faena Hotel + Universe; live music on Wednesdays.

La Biela – 600 Avenida Quintana; 011-54-11-4804-0449 or 011-54-11-4804-4135;; among city’s oldest cafes; stone’s throw from cemetery; sweeping corner space, lined with warm wood and decorated with framed photos; sprawling terrace, too; Borges lived down street.
La Bourgogne – 1981 Avenida Alvear (at Alvear Palace Hotel); 011-54-11-4808-2100;; classic; informal wine-tasting room; for $75, 3-4 wine tastings paired with food.
Millon – 1048 Parana (between Marcelo T de Alvear & Santa Fe); 011-54-11-4815-9925;; near greatest cemetery on planet; romantic converted mansion in lovely area.
Oak Bar – 1661 Avenida Alvear; 011-54-11-5171-1234;; Palacio Duhau hotel bar.

San Telmo
Bar Britanico – Brasil 399; 011-54-11-4361-2107;; bohemian haunt; registered bare notable; open 24 hours.
Bar Seddon – 695 Defensa (at Chile); 011-54-11-4342-3700;; where Sunday bargain hunters from flea market seek refuge; “authentic.”
El Federal – 599 Carlos Calvo (at Peru); 011-54-11-4300-4313;; old-fashioned joint; ideal for afternoon cerveza y picada (beer and cheese-and-cold-meat served on wooden board); open since 1964.

Complejo Tango – 2608 Avenida Belgrano; 011-54-11-4941-1119;; boutique hotel that also offers tango lessons and dinner.

Casa Bolivar – 1701 Bolivar; 011-54-11-4300-3619;; B&B in renovated 1901 structure.

Barrio Norte
cE Hotel de Diseño – 1695 Marcelo Torcuato de Alvear; 011-54-11-5237-3100;; pleasant alternative to better-known tourist centers; modern-looking building in quaint neighborhood of old mansions and Parisian-looking squares; 28 rooms; minimalist-cool hotel, opened in 2005; Jacuzzi hydro-massage tubs in every room; lacks basics such as full-service restaurant and closet space; standard rooms have bare concrete floors, white décor, and depressing views; free high-speed Internet; small flat-screen TV; king size beds; tiny hallways outside rooms are dark; bathrooms are small but nicely designed; despite lack of restaurant, 24-hour room service for finger sandwiches, tapas, and drinks.

Las Canitas
Tailor Made Hotel – 385 Arce; 011-54-11-4774-9620;; next to polo fields; complimentary snacks and wine.

CasaCalma – 1015 Suipacha; 011-54-11-5199-2800;; 18 guest rooms; each is quiet oasis from bustle; clean white and green décor takes cue from lush “vertical garden” that climbs 9 stories from lobby to top floor.
La Cayetana – 1330 Mexico; 011-54-11-4383-2230;; 11 elegant, designed suites; mixed reviews.

Palermo (Costanera Norte, Hollywood, Villa Crespo, Palermo Viejo & Soho)
BoBo Hotel – 4882 Guatemala; 011-54-11-4774-0505;; short for Bourgeois Bohemian; little boutique hotel high on charm; rooms have modern touches, though, with bold colors and white surfaces; some have terraces; each has different name and theme, such as Angelina Room (balcony and Jacuzzi); turn-of-20th-Century building; lovely bar.
Costa Petit Hotel – 5141 Costa Rica (Palermo Vieho); 011-54-11-4775-8294;; patrician hotel (4 room B&B); Ralph Lauren-gone-estancia aesthetic, wrapped in pale greens and white, carries through 4, large rooms, filled with antique armoires and vanity sinks, wainscoting, and brass fixtures; grass-and-honeysuckle-filled courtyard is serene pool; tree-lined blocks; sunset cocktails on balcony; Room #1, ground floor suite, opens onto garden and small splash pool.
Fierro Hotel – 5862 Soler; 011-54-11-3220-6800;; 27 rooms; young artist and techie hot-spot.
Home Hotel – 5860 Honduras 5860; 011-54-11-4778-1008;; boutique; stylish.
Jardin Escondido – 4746 Gorriti; 501-824-4085 or 800-746-3743;; Francis Ford Coppola’s Buenos Aires hide-a-way; 4 master bedrooms, 2 double bedrooms, and 1 single; full-time housekeeper; small pool.
Oasis Clubhouse – 1418 Pehache; 011-54-11-4777-3692;; private club accommodations in 4-story, industrial chic venue with lovely pool.
Palermo Place – 5865 Nicaragua; 011-54-11-3220-9600;
Ultra Hotel – 4929 Gorriti; 011-54-11-4833-9200;; swank; 20 rooms; rooftop pool & courtyard.
Vitrum – 5641 Gorriti; 011-54-11-4776-5030;; colorful glass façade; spacious, retro-futuristic rooms; on terrace is spa with oversized Jacuzzi.

Puerto Madero
Faena Hotel + Universe – 445 Martha Salotti; 011-54-11-4010-9000;; Starck-designed.

Algodon Mansion – 1647 Montevideo; 011-54-11-3530-7777;; luxurious; 10 suites; in renovated mansion.
Alvear Palace Hotel – 1981 Avenida Alvear; 011-54-11-4808-2100;; classic.
Four Seasons Buenos Aires – 1086 Posadas; 011-54-11-4321 1200;; fabulous outdoor pool; try to stay in Mansion annex.
Melia Recoleta Plaza – 1557 Posadas; 011-54-11-5353-4000;; former 1930s French palace; elegant and functional.
Mio Buenos Aires – 465 Avenida Quintana; 011-54-11-5295-8500;; designed and run by Christina Catena (Catenas are among Argentina’s most well-known wine families); elegant, personal boutique; landscaped terrace; 30 suites; exquisite, handcarved, wooden bathtubs; affordable.
Palacio Duhau – 1661 Avenida Alvear; 011-54-11-5171-1234;; restored, Belle Epoque, 1934 neoclassic mansion with original marble floors, wood paneling, and teardrop chandeliers; 23 rooms; sunny terrace and garden links hotel to new, 17-story tower on Calle Posadas, with 142 spacious, minimalist rooms good bar (Oak Bar); of Palacio rooms, garden views have best light; Park Deluxe King suites in tower have most charm.

Park Tower – 1193 Avenida Leandro N. Alem; 011-54-11-4318-9100;
Sofitel Buenos Aires – 841/849 Arroyo; 011-54-11-4131-0123;; boutique hotel fashioned from 2 historic buildings; Art Deco lobby lined with 20' high potted pines.

San Telmo
Hotel Babel – 946 Balcarce; 011-54-11-4300-8300;; charming, small boutique hotel with a conventillo feel to it, built around a glass-covered, light-filled central courtyard in century-old house; simply furnished rooms with king- or queen-size beds or 2 twins, rustic brick walls, neutral coloring, and hardwood floors; bathrooms are shower-only; ground level contains art gallery, with rotating exhibits; rich wood lobby; lounge full of shelves heaping with books; no gym or pool, but service is excellent and intimate; bargain.
Cocker – 458 Avenida Juan de Garay; 011-54-11-4362-8451;; in elegantly decaying, 19th Century mansions; 5 rooms; aristocratic and traditional, yet warm; classic movies screened on rooftop deck in summer; hand-annotated map of surrounding streets, given to guests upon check-in; every café and restaurant.
Moreno Hotel – 376 Moreno; 011-54-11-6091-2000;; boutique property housed in nicely restored, Art Deco historical building; old-fashioned caged elevator, vintage stained glass windows, intact tile completely lining hallways and lobby, and high, ornate ceilings (Johannes Kronfuss designed in 1928); 39 guestrooms are spacious and excellent deal for price (though some are dark and experience some street noise; some rooms have bathtub only; wooden rooftop terrace, which has panoramic city views; hotel’s street is bit grungy.
Posada de la Luna – 565 Peru; 011-54-11-4343-0911;; heavy wooden door opens on to twisting colonial staircase with marble steps and elegant iron banisters; formerly home to prominent 19th Century family (Saavedras); retains character and even some original furniture; high ceilings, terracotta tile floors; quadruple rooms are great value for families or friends.

Tigre Delta
Bonanza Deltaventura – Carapachay River Islands; 011-54-11-4728-1674;; 1898 villa on former Rio Carapachay fruit plantation; ideal for eco-conscious; miles of walkways through grasslands for bird-watching and horses for riding along shoreline; can swim off dock out front; 4 small but comfortable rooms; living style communal, with shared bathrooms and kitchen; price (2 days and 1 night, including excursions and meals, but alcoholic drinks cost extra); staff speaks English.
Delta Eco Spa – Rio Carapachay (km 6); 011-54-11-5236-0553;; on western delta’s Rio Carapachay.
Rumbo 90 – Canal de Este & Rio de la Plata (Parana River); 011-54-9-11-5843-9454;; in eastern delta.

Las Violetas – 3899 Avenida Rivadavia; 011-54-11-4958-7387;; open since 1884; coffee house and restaurant; 1998 shuttering caused such uproar that within 6 weeks city gave historic protection to save; 2001 restoration; 3 19th Century stained-glass windows and marble bar; classic café fare; registered bare notable.
Olviedo – 2602 Beruti; 011-54-11-4821-3741;; clubby, old world charmer; seafood.

Caseros Restaurant – 486 Avenida Caseros; 011-54-11-4307-4729; in former British railroad magnate neighborhood; reasonably-priced comfort food.
Club Social – 442 Avenida Caseros; 011-54-11-4307-1919;; modeled on New York City’s Balthazar.

Barrio Norte
Esquina Carlos Gardel – 3200 Carlos Gardel (Abasto); 011-54-11-4867-6363;; among most elegant tango shows, with dinner and drinks ($300).

Sucre – 676 Sucre; 011-54-11-4782-9082;; high-concept dining; open kitchen stretches before airy, warehouse-like space; catwalk suspended next to dramatic floor-to-ceiling wall of illuminated liquors; menu inspired and original, drawing from Asia (citrus-and-soy-laced tiradito de pescado (fusion ceviche); equally impressive duck ravioli; beautifully designed desserts.

La Boca
El Obrero – 64 Agustín R. Caffarena; 011-54-11-4362-9912;; 2 old brothers from Barcelona started this institution several decades ago; thick, juicy, perfectly cooked steaks; Italian food, fish, and chicken also served; can order ½ and ¼ portions many items; tables fill rapidly at 9 pm, so reserve or come earlier; arrive by cab and have restaurant call cab for you when you leave at night because considered dangerous neighborhood to wander at night; try rabas (fried squid rings that melt in mouth like butter lozenges).

Café Margot – 857 Boedo(arts district); 011-54-11-4957-0001; open since 1903; 30 different turkey dishes and matambre (“hunger-killer” flank steak); registered bare notable.

Olsen – 5870 Gorriti; 011-54-11-4776-7677; Scandinavian; 4 stars; Sunday brunch mainstay of expatriates, filmmakers, and wealthy Argentines; dishes include herring and smoked salmon with Argentine bondiola (pork tenderloin); call ahead for outdoor table on heated deck or on couches around fireplace (avoid frenetic tables near kitchen); brunch until 8 pm.

Buenos Aires Verde – 5657 Gorriti; 011-54-11-4775-9594;; cheerful, casual restaurant; emphasizes vegetarian options.
Fervor Restaurant – Posadas 1519 (at Callao); 011-54-11-4804-4944;; parilla named after Borges short story; grilled steaks but also salads.
Gran Café Tortoni – 825/29 Avenida De Mayo; 011-54-11-4342-4328;; cannot not visit; important Porteño institution; historic cafe has served as city’s artistic and intellectual center since 1858 (and current location since 1890s); regulars include Jorge Luis Borges, Julio de Caro, Cátulo Castillo, and José Gobello; appointed in woods, stained glass, yellowing marble, and bronzes; perfect place for coffee or small snack when wandering along Avenida de Mayo; twice-nightly tango shows in cramped side gallery worth seeing; service and treating people well has never been Tortoni’s forte; registered bare notable.
Meraviglia – 5796 Gorriti; 011-54-11-4775-7949;; organic café; good for breakfast and lunch; try ginger and mint-infused lemonade.
Pizzeria Guerrin – 1368 Avenida Corrientes; 011-54-11-4371-8141; old-fashioned pizza; try fugazzeta (thick crust pillowed over with mozzarella and onions).
Richmond Cafe – 468 Calle Florida; 011-54-11-4322-1341 or 011-54-11-4322-1653;; older Buenos Aires atmosphere and pace; café notable, and all that is left of Richmond Hotel, Argentine-British hybrid that opened in 1917 and once catered to elite; traditionally Argentine menu; decor is that of gentlemen’s club, full of brass, red-leather upholstery, and wood; hearty basics such as beef, chicken, and fish.

Casa Felix – 2254 Avenida Nicolás Avellaneda; 011-54-11-4555-1882;; private restaurant; in charming, white-washed home; dozen or so people can eat by appointment; inventive; should be 1st choice for dining options.

El General – 350 Avenida Belgrano; 011-54-11-4342-7830;; dedicated to Juan Peron; wood banisters, floors, and seats more appropriate for old west saloon than fine restaurant; ignore expansive menu except for page-long parilla list; every cut available in no-frills fashion (no toppings or sauces) and come with sides like French fries, cheese-covered rice or potato pie called Pastel del Papa.
El Querandi Tangueria – 302 Peru; 011-54-11-5199-1770;; dinner and show.

Palermo (Costanera Norte, Hollywood, Villa Crespo, Palermo Viejo & Soho)
Arevalito – 1478 Arevalo; 011-54-11-4776-4252; pint-size bistro; vegetarian.
Astrid & Gaston – 3222 Lafinur; 011-54-11-4802-2991;; Peruvian restaurant (international chain).
Bar 6 – 1676 Armenia; 011-54-11-4833-6807;; dramatic stone, wood, and glass space; seasonally changing menu ambitious, from breakfast to Asian stir-fry to polenta to grilled seafood; waiters usually too busy being beautiful to hurry.
Bar du Marche – 596 Nicaragua (Palermo Viejo); 011-54-11-4778-1050;; on leafy street; ground-floor cafe & wine bar; private Japanese dining room hidden upstairs.

Bio – Humboldt 2199; 011-54-11-4774-3880;; corner restaurant, casual, with great empanadas.
Cafe Bonaparte – 4690 Honduras; 011-54-11-4833-4886; 30 seats, elegant, French; local power hangout.
Café des Arts – 3415 Avenida Figueroa Alcorta (at Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA), on ground floor); 011-54-11-4808-6500;
Café Nostalgia – 3599 Soler; 011-54-11-4963-0903;; occupies ground floor 1935 building; bona fide Argentinian cuisine (such as calabaza-stuffed ravioli and beef with fries), as well as French; registered bare notable.
Casa Cruz – 1658 Uriarte; 011-54-11-4833-1112;; among city’s most fashionable restaurants; with enormous polished-brass doors and no door sign, feels like nightclub; inside, dark modern interior; impressive round bar with fresh flowers; spacious dining area full of polished woods and red upholstery; menu eclectic and interesting, overseen by German Martitegui, same chef who oversees kitchens at Olsen and Tegui; rabbit, sea bass, Parma ham rolls.
Central – 5644 Costa Rica; 011-54-11-4776-7370; minimalist décor; Mediterranean food.
Cluny – 4618 El Salvador; 011-54-11-4831-7176;; casual but elegant; looks more like modernist living room than dining room; weather permitting, dine outside in patio garden; menu emphasizes fish and fowl; extensive wine list; in afternoons, fine British tea service.
Dominga – 5618 Honduras; 011-54-11-4771-4443;; set in gracious old house; Mediterranean cuisine and sushi.
Experiencia Fin del Mundo – 5673 Honduras; 011-54-11-4852-6661;; affiliated with Patagonian (Neuquen Province) Bodega Fin del Mundo winery; wine tastings paired with small plates.
Guido’s Bar – 2843 Republica de la India; 011-54-11-4802-2391;; holdout bodegon.
Hernan Gipponi Restaurante – 5862 Soler (at Fierro Hotel); 011-54-11-3220-6800;; try rabbit liver ravioli with mushroom stock and watercress air.
Lo de Joaquin Alberdi – 1772 Jorge Luis Borges; 011-54-11-4832-5329;; wine shop that offers affordable wine-tastings on Thursdays, paired with charcuterie and cheese plates.
Miranda – 5602 Costa Rica; 011-54-11-4771-4255;; loft-like industrial space where local film executives hang; bustling, new generation parrilla; décor cool and staff hip; food traditionally no-frills; order provoleta (char-grilled, herb-seasoned cheese slice) and bife de chorizo (sirloin strip); excellent housemade fries.
Olsen – 5870 Gorriti; 011-54-11-4776-7677; in what was once warehouse; soars to churchlike proportions and has mezzanine overlooking main dining area; interior, complete with central, round metal fireplace, has 1960s mod feel to it; also, tranquil patio garden overgrown with vines; starters are meant to be shared; notable for seafood although meat served; enormous vodka selection.
Osaka – 5608 Soler; 011-54-11-4775-6964;; Japanese-Peruvian fusion; great sushi.
Parilla La Cabrera – 5099 Cabrera; 011-54-11-4831-7002, 011-54-11-4831-0325, or 011-54-11-4831-0079;; grill so popular (#1 restaurant in Buenos Aires by some accounts), had to open another restaurant to accommodate guests; 15 complimentary side dishes come with meals, such as mashed pumpkin with raisins and cocktail onions soaked in red wine.
Parilla La Cabrera – 5127 Cabrera; 011-54-11-4832-5754, 011-54-11-4831-0325, or 011-54-11-4831-0079;; see above.
El Preferido de Palermo – 2108 Jorge Luis Borges; 011-54-11-4774-6585; open since 1952; Borges’ haunt, Coppola’s fave; Spanish food; try fabada asturiana (steamy fava bean, sausage, pork, pancetta, and chorizo casserole); registered bare notable.
Siamo nel Forno – 5886 Costa Rica; 011-54-11-5290-9529; New York-style pizza.
Soberbia 22 – Fitz Roy 2199; 011-54-11-4776-4550;; midnight meals; traditional grilled Argentinian meats.
Tegui – 5852 Costa Rica; 011-54-11-5291-3333;; intimate; entrance camouflaged by graffiti; menu showcases Chef-Owner German Martitegui’s inventiveness; try poached oyster with prosciutto, guinea fowl confit with caramelized apple, and langoustine ravioli.
Unik – 5132 Soler; 011-54-11-4772-2230;; 60' marble bar, open kitchen; try slow-cooked Patagonian lamb shank with cumin-spiced quinoa.

Puerto Madero
Cabaña Las Lilas – 516 Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo; 011-54-11-4313-1336;; steaks draw power-lunch crowd.
El Almacen de los Milagros – 210 Quintana; 011-54-11-4814-0228;; whimsical decor; northern Argentinian food; home-made cakes, cookies, and muffins; also, entrees, like beef empanadas; make sure to try quesillo cheese dessert with sugar-cane honey and tuna conserve.
El Cuartito – 937 Talcahuano; 011-54-11-4816-4331; 1930s pizza parlor; vies with Pizzeria Guerrin for best pizza.
Sirop Folie – 1661 Vincente Lopez; 011-54-11-4813-5900;; on quaint alley in upscale neighborhood; well-dressed families show up after 5 p.m.
Sottovoce – 1098 Libertador; 011-54-11-4807-6691;; classic Italian food; painfully bright.
Sottovoce – 176 Alicia M. De Justo; 011-54-11-4807-6691;; classic Italian food.

Croque Madame – 1902 Avenida del Libertador; 011-54-11-4806-8639;; across from National Decorative Arts Museum, in quaint, 2-story gatehouse once part of ambassadorial residence; perfect for breakfast; find table in manicured garden where shaded by towering trees; fountains; also perfect for lunch or snacks.
El Estrebe – 2475 Peña; 011-54-11-4803-0282;; no-frills exterior conceals parilla par excellence; reservations recommended.
Tarquino – 1967 Rodriguez Peña (Hub Porteño); 011-54-11-6091-2160; former Ferran Adria pupil; modern Argentine cuisine.

San Cristobol
Miramar – 1190 Sarandi; 011-54-11-4304-4261; bodegon open since 1948; crisp-skinned sardine, shrimp, and fresh oyster plates; generous servings oxtail soup, rabbit; reasonably priced; registered bare notable.

San Telmo
Aldo’s Vinoteca – 372 Moreno (at Moreno Hotel); 011-54-11-5291-2380;; wine-centric restaurant.
Bar Britanico – 399 Brasil; 011-54-11-4361-2107;; bohemian haunt; registered bare notable; open 24 hours.
Café San Juan – 450 Avenida San Juan; 011-54-11-4300-1112; cash-only; smart little tapas bar; make sure to try cazuelos (casseroles).
La Coruña – 982/94 Bolivar; 011-54-11-4362-7637; local laborer grub; registered bare notable.
El Desnivel – 855 Defensa; 011-54-11-4300-9081; yellow walls, eye-burning fluorescent lighting, theme-less decor, mismatched table cloths, tiny tables, and nonchalant staff, yet popular favorite; high-quality steaks that cost 3 times as much at other restaurants; leave room for dessert: rich and creamy homemade flan that comes with freshly made whipped cream.
El Historico – 524 México; 011-54-11-4307-4832;; Argentine Society of Writers headquarters, where Borges sometimes offered public readings; currently shares space with this restaurant; main dining room adorned with famous opera singer portraits; metal plaque lists society’s board of directors during 1942-44, including Jorge Luis Borges.
El Viejo Almacen – 313 Avenida Independencia; 011-54-11-4307-6689;; puts on dinner, show, and party for $450.

Boulevard Saenz Peña – 1400 Boulevard Saenz Pena; 011-54-11-5197-4776;; gallery and restaurant; lovingly created menu by Juliana Lopez May, prominent television personality.

Villa Devoto
Café de Garcia – 3302 Sanabria; 011-54-11-4501-5912; open since 1937; on rosewood shaded street; this is “must” visit; try picada; soccer on tv; registered bare notable.

Villa Ortuzar
Kensho – 3799 Zarraga; 011-54-11-4555-0421;; vegetarian with Asian bent; try tofu marinated in mandarin orange reduction with yamani rice.

Academia Nacional del Tango – 833 Avenida de Mayo; 011-54-11-4345-6968;; tango lessons.
Blue Parallel – 9801 Avenel Farm Drive (Potomac, MD); 301-263-6670 or 800-256-5307;; best travel specialist in Argentina; can arrange private tour of Ignacio Librandi’s neo-figurative art collection.
Borello Travel – 359 Peru; 011-54-11-5031-1988 or 800-405-3072;; luxury art and spa tours.
CasaCalma – 1015 Suipacha (Centro); 011-54-11-5199-2800;; spa.
Complejo Tango – 2608 Avenida Belgrano (Balvanera); 011-54-11-4941-1119;; tango lessons and dinner.
Escuela Argentina de Tango – 3 locations: (1) Sede Centro, Viamonte esq. San Martín, Galerías Pacífico (Centro, Cultural Borges Nivel I); (2) Sede Talcahuano, Talcahuano 1052 (Barrio Norte, between Avenida Santa Fe & Marcelo T. de Alvear); & (3) Sede San Telmo, Tacuarí 471 (San Telmo); 011-54-11-4312-4990;; tango lessons.
Graffitimundo – 1885 Thames; 011-54-9-11-3309-7462;; neighborhoods and street art tours.
Guides – Susana Neira (Buenos Aires or Tigre), 011-54-9-11-4992-3780,; Mariana Jimenez, 011-54-9-11-4997-7832,
Say Hueque Tours – 749 Viamonte; 011-54-11-5199-2517;; reasonably-priced Tigre delta excursions.
Valle Tierra – 4562 Costa Rica; 011-54-11-4833-6724;; modern, airy yoga studio.

Arandu – 1257 Paraguay; 011-54-11-4816-3689;; custom-made leather goods, especially boots and saddlery.
Darcos – 259 Suipacha; 011-54-11-4326-0232;; tango shoes.
Tango Brujo – 754 Esmeralda; 011-54-11-4325-8264; tango shoes.
Vasalissa – 1940 Callao; 011-54-11-4784-0748;; chocolates.

Las Canitas
Talabarteria Aynie – 1539 Ortega y Gasset; 011-54-11-4771-0050;; tack shop since 1930s.

Dorina Vidoni – 358 Alvear; 011-54-11-4793-0563;; designer women’s knitwear.

Palermo (Costanera Norte, Hollywood, Villa Crespo, Palermo Viejo & Soho)
airedelsur – 1855 Fitz Roy; 011-54-11-4776-1500;; fashion and home accessories.
Cardon – 3247 Avenida Corrientes; 011-54-11-4959-3662;; pigskin espadrilles.
Cardon – 884 Gurruchaga; 011-54-11-4774-1009;; pigskin espadrilles.
Casa L’Inc – 93 Amenabar; 011-54-11-4776-2348;; art gallery.
Diseño Arg – 5033 Honduras; 011-54-11-4832-2006; or; stores started by fashion journalist Claudia Jara; dozens Argentinian designers here sell clothes and explain how they create them; primarily for women.
Hermanos Estebecorena – El Salvador 5960; 011-54-11-4772-2145;; men’s designer clothing.
Hollywood in Cambodia – 1885 Thames; 011-54-9-11-6289-6258;; street art gallery.
Mule – 1738 Armenia; 011-54-11-4783-1137;; shoes.
Nobrand – 5876 Gorriti; 011-54-4776-7288;; Argentine home design items, like mate gourds.
Planeta Bs. As. – 1627 Jorge Luis Borges (just off Plaza Serrano); 011-54-11-4832-2006; or; stores started by fashion journalist Claudia Jara; dozens Argentinian designers here sell clothes and explain how they create them; primarily for women.
Turbo Galería – 5827 Costa Rica; 011-54-11-4776-8762;; art gallery.
Dorina Vidoni – 4834 Honduras; 011-54-11-4833-4965;; designer women’s knitwear.
Dorina Vidoni Vintage – 4849 Gorriti; 011-54-11-4834-6664;; designer women’s knitwear.

Puerta 3
Comme il Faut – 1239 Arenales; 011-54-11-4815-5690;; best tango shoes.

Puerto Madero
Kuna – 538 Pierina Dealessi; 011-54-11-5775-2146;; Jil Sanderesque, hand-loomed, Peruvian knitwear.

Arandu – 1924 Ayacucho; 011-54-11-4800-1575;; custom-made leather goods, especially boots and saddlery.
Cardon – 1847 Avenida Alvear; 011-54-11-4804-8424;; pigskin espadrilles.
Cat Ballou – 1702 Avenida Alvear; 011-54-11-4811-9792; one-of-kind fashions and housewares by Argentine artists.
Gabriella Capucci – 1477 Avenida Alvear; 011-54-11-4815-3636;; unique boutique; women’s fashion; trinkets, etc.
Humawaca – Posadas 1380; 011-54-11-4811-5995;; leather goods store.
Kuna – Patio Bullrich, Avenida Libertador 750, #1039 (Nivea Posadas); 011-54-11-5775-2146;; Jil Sanderesque, hand-loomed, Peruvian knitwear.
Min Agostini – 1532 Libertad; 011-54-11-4813-0805;; Min Agostini designer goods; coats, dresses, and tops.
Rossi y Caruso – 1387 Posadas; 011-54-11-4811-1965;; like affordable Hermes.
Marcelo Senra – 1133 Talcahuano; 011-54-11-4813-2770;; boho-chic boutique.
Tramando – 1973 Rodriguez Peña; 011-54-11-4811-0465;; Martin Churba (among Argentina’s biggest designers) goods; think Carrie Bradshaw meets George Lucas.
Dorina Vidoni – 1375 Libertad; 011-54-11-4312-3898;; designer women’s knitwear.

San Isidro
Dorina Vidoni Vintage – 2920 Laprida; 011-54-11-4700-8626;; designer women’s knitwear.

San Telmo
Boutique Nora Iniesta – 715 Peru (between Chile and Independencia); 011-54-11-4331-5459, 011-54-15-5319-1119 (cell), and/or 011-54-9-11-5319-1119 (from Canada or US);; by appointment only; Nora made herself famous within Buenos Aires for kitschy art, incorporating Argentine symbols such as gauchos and tango dancers; now Evita-inspired themes dominate her art; modern shadow boxes, collages, and detritus montages (dolls, souvenirs, and buttons).
Marcelo Toledo – 462 Humberto Primo; 011-52-11-4362-0841;; for your Eva Peron jewelry needs.
Zavaleta Lab – 567 Venezuela; 011-54-11-4328-4553;; emerging artists.

Atelier 5 Tigre – 1316 Boulevard Saenz Peña; 011-54-11-4993-6048;; contemporary art and home accessories.
Boulevard Saenz Pena – 1400 Boulevard Saenz Peña; 011-54-11-5197-4776;; gallery and restaurant; vintage stuff.
Tienda del Boulevard – 1311 Boulevard Saenz Peña; 011-54-11-4749-6655;; fashionable clothing.
La Trastienda – 1336 Boulevard Saenz Peña;; striking street art mural (by Kilomba) flanks art space; restored tenement where local artists show.

Congreso de la Nacion Argentina – 1864 Avenida Rivadavia; 011-54-11-6310-7100;; at Avenida de Mayo’s western end (at other end is Casa Rosada); Kilometre Zero for all Argentine National Highways marked on milestone at Congressional Plaza, next to building; Argentine congress is bicameral, with 72-seat Senate and 257-seat Deputies Chamber.
Cultura Tanguera – 1392 Avenida Rivadavia; 011-54-11-4381-4049;; art gallery and milonga (tango dance hall).
Centro Cultural Moca – 169 Montes de Oca; 011-54-11-4519-5639;; major art exhibits and programs.

Miguel Cane Municipal Library – 4321 Carlos Calvo; 011-54-11-4922-0020;; where Borges worked 1937-1945; unprepossessing.

Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve – 1550 Avenida Tristan Achaval Rodriguez (on Rio Plata); 011-54-11-4315-4129;; 865 acres of marshland; great for birdwatching.
Obelisk – Plaza de la Republica (at Corrientes & 9 de Julio Avenidas’ intersection); built to commemorate city’s 400th anniversary.

Ciudad Evita
Ciudad Evita – intersection of Highway 4 and Highway Ricchieri (near Ezeiza Airport);; actually only visible from air or on google maps; founded in 1947 by Argentinian President Juan Domingo Peron, Ciudad Evita was new suburb laid out to create Evita's profile.

Avenida Garay & Calle Tacuarí – just off this nondescript corner, somewhere, is apartment where, in cellar, Jorge Luis Borges’ Aleph is set.

Casa Rosada – 219 Hipólito Yrigoyen; 011-54-11-4344-3802;; rosy Renaissance-style palace, home to Argentina’s presidential offices.
City Legislature Building
130 Calle Peru (at Hipolito Yrigoyen); 011-54-11-4338-3167;; although legislative chambers still active, building also maintains Eva Peron Foundation’s offices, open to public as Salon Eva Peron.
Edificio del Ministerio de Obras Públicas – 1925 Avenida 9th of July (between Belgrano and Moreno); 011-54-11-4379-9000;; 2 10-story Evita images on exterior.
Museo del Pueblo – 930 Avenida del Mayo (between Carlos Pelligrini (9 de Julio) and Suipacha); 011-54-11-4341-8020, ext. 310;; volunteers here include some of few remaining associates of Eva Peron.

Palermo (Costanera Norte, Hollywood, Villa Crespo, Palermo Viejo & Soho)
Borges Home – 2135 Jose Luis Borges; childhood home (1901-1914); small plaque.
Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo – 1574 Humbold; 011-54-11-4775-5577;; contemporary art gallery.
Buenos Aires Zoo – Avenida Sarmiento y Avenida Las Heras (at Plaza Italia); 011-54-114511-6010;; Borges used to come here to look at cats.
Ernesto Catena – 4882 Honduras; 011-54-11-4833-9499;; photography gallery.
Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) – 3415 Avenida Figueroa Alcorta; 011-54-11-4808-6500;; modern art.
Museo Evita – 2988 Calle Lafinur; 011-54-11-4807-9433; or
Museo Xul Solar – Laprida 1212; 011-54-11-4824-3302;; works by Alejandro Xul Solar, Argentina’s answer to Paul Klee.
Parque Tres de Febrero – Avenidas del Libertador & Sarmiento; beautiful city park with lovely rose garden; consider renting paddle boat.
Plaza Intendente Seeber – off Avenida Columbia; lined with jacaranda trees.
Villa Crespo – Palermo neighborhood; silent cobblestone streets canopied by oaks and rosewoods.

Puerto Madero
Coleccion de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat – 141 Olga Cossettini; 011-54-11-4310-6600;; on waterfront; formidable Argentinian and international art collection.
Luna Park – Avenue Corrientes (at Avenue Bouchard); 011-54-11-5279-5279;; where Juan and Eva Person met in 1944.

Biblioteca Nacional – 2502 Calle Agüero (at Avenida Libertador); 011-54-11-4808-6000;; modern architectural oddity on former Presidential Residence land (where Eva Perón died); spectacular 1970s Brutalist architecture example; porthole windows at ground level, long approach ramps, moat-like berm landscaping, and difficulty in determining where actual entrance is; visit reading room (2 top stories) for awe-inspiring view; down hill below library is official Eva Peron monument (bronze statue).
Cementerio de la Recoleta – 1790 Junin; 011-54-11-4804-7040;; among greatest cemeteries in world; Eva Peron buried here.
Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo – 1902 Avenida del Libertador; 011-54-11-4807-2751;; in old mansion; can stroll through original family home, almost unchanged.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes – 1473 Avenida del Libertador; 011-54-11-5288-9945;; building formerly pumped city’s water supply; metamorphosed into Buenos Aires’ most important art museum in 1930; houses world’s largest Argentine painting and sculpture collection; also European art dating from medieval period to today, including works by Monet, Picasso, Renoir, Rodin, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Van Gogh; make sure to see La Hora Del Almuerzo (Lunch Break, 1903), by Pío Collivadino, depicting Italian immigrant construction workers, one with a Garibaldi cap; another staring directly at you as he bites into sandwich; also, La Vuelta del Malon (Return of Indian), emotional and panoramic work, propaganda for General Julio A. Roca’s “Desert Campaign,” when he slaughtered Pampas Indians; don’t miss Manuel Jose de Guerrico Hall (medieval and Renaissance art and other decorative objects, including silver maté sets); other distinctive works include 15 sumptuous gold and mother of pearl inlaid panels (Tablas de La Conquista de Mexico, from Miguel Gonzalez workshop).
Palacio Barolo Tour – 1370 Avenida de Mayo; 011-54-11-4383-1065; or; among city’s most impressive buildings (once tallest in South America); Art Nouveau, neo-Gothic, neo-Romantic, and Asian Indian revival; design based on Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy; opened in 1923; work of eccentric Italian architect Mario Palanti, who used largely materials imported from Italy; architectural movement premised on belief that Europe would suffer another great apocalypse and South America would be only place where architecture would survive; building’s entrance is supposed to be Hell; floor’s patterned medallions simulate fire; interior gallery at this level decorated with grotesque dragons (notice that those on east side are smaller and female, those on west male); Floors 1-14 represent Purgatory and 15-22 Heaven; tours visit rooftop lighthouse, meant to represent God and Salvation; views up and down Avenida de Mayo, and especially to Congreso, are unparalleled; building designed so that at 7:45 pm on July 9th, Argentine Independence Day, Southern Cross directly lines up over tower; every month on 25th, lighthouse is turned on; on Friday nights, special tour with wine tasting, called Extraordinary Nights; Palanti hoped Italy would send Dante’s ashes here.
Teatro Colon – 628 Cerrito; 011-54-11-4378-7100;; city’s main opera house; acoustically among world’s 5 best concert venues; originally opened in 1857; present theatre opened 1908, with Giuseppe Verdi’s Aïda; restored 2010; make sure to visit Golden Room.

Borges Apartment – 994 Maipú, 6B (just off Plaza San Martín); not open to public.

San Telmo
Centro Nacional de la Música – 564 Mexico; 011-54-11-4361-6238;; used to be Biblioteca Nacional (where Jorge Luis Borges worked as director for many years).
Confederacion General del Trabajo – 802 Azopardo (at Independence); 011-54-11-4334-0599;; union office building Perons constructed in late 1940s; Eva Peron portrait on central tower (lighted by eternal flame); she was embalmed here.
Fundacion Eva Peron – 850 Paseo Colon (at Mexico); 011-54-11-4343-0891;; in Engineering Institute building; only tiny plaque re Eva Peron, who founded this institute.
Evita Vive Tango Show – 364 Moreno (at Moreno Hotel Theater); 011-54-11-4343-0463;; dinner and tango show celebrating Evita’s life.
La Ventana – 431 Balcarce; 011-54-11-4334-1314;; show held in atmospheric, brick-lined cellar in old building; performances mix folkloric, other Argentine styles (dance and music), and tango; among highlights is schmaltzy rendition Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina, complete with movable balcony and rather glamorous descamisados (shirtless ones) holding Argentine flags.
Tigre Delta – Tigre Delta region vast (5.5K square miles); among world’s only major deltas that do not empty into ocean or sea; flows into Río de la Plata, which separates Argentina and Uruguay; sedimentary islands covered in forest and grasslands; what Venice might have looked like before development; named for jaguars (tigers) that roamed before islands became important agriculturally for wicker and fruit in mid-1800s; after 1877 yellow fever epidemic in Buenos Aires, seen as healthful retreat; thus, British character pervades Tigre, with Victorians and half-timbered mock Tudors, many of which on what locals call continente (mainland).
Atelier Sebastian Paez Vilaro – General Campos 160;; by appointment only; bronze and copper art.
Isla Bonanza – Rio Carapachay; 011-54-11-4728-1674, 011-54-11-5245-9929 or 011-54-15-5603-7176; or; island where Bonanza Deltaventura company offers horseback riding, kayaking, bird-watching, and tramping through forests, where botanists point out plant species.
Isla El Descanso – Rio Sarmiento; 011-54-11-4825-6996;; small island occupied by retreat that highlights its natural attributes: lagoons, channels, and gardens; owner, Claudio Stamato, created retreat when converted his weekend home into retreat with sculptures by Alberto Bastón Díaz, Argentine artist.
Museo de Arte Tigre – 972 Paseo Victorica; 011-54-11-4512-4528;; vast balustraded and turreted structure dating from 1900; former town casino influenced by grand, period European hotels; inside, opulent (with marble staircase, wrought-iron bannisters, gigantic chandeliers, and ceiling frescoes); art itself (mostly by Argentines or on Argentine subjects, with many gauchos in evidence) arranged into themes such as Tigre, human figure, and architecture; largest salon (previously ballroom) takes ports as theme, with works by Quinquela Martín and Oscar Vaz, who uses light to great effect in his busy Boca scenes; in landscapes room, look out for 2 gaucho scenes by wonderful Florencia Molino Campos.
Parque de la Costa – 011-54-11-4002-6000;; waterfront amusement park next to Puerto de Frutos and Tren de la Costa station.
Puerto de Frutos –; market that is 10-minute walk from Tigre train station; crafts fair located in old fruit market on waterfront.

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