STOCKHOLM

BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Gildas Rum – 79 Skanegatan (Sodermain); 011-46-08-714-7798; bright café with knick-knacks and excellent carrot cake.
●Helin & Voltaire – 14 Rosendalsvagen (Djurgarden); 011-46-08-664-5108; helinvoltaire.com; café that looks like from fairy tale; excellent pastries.
●Mellqvist Kaffebar – 4 Rorstrandsgatan (Vasastan/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-302-380; hole-in-wall that serves city’s best espresso; good for weekend brunch.
●Petite France – 6 John Ericcsongatan (Kungsholmen); 011-46-08-618-2800; petitefrance.se; city’s most authentic French bakery and café; great breakfast locale.
●Riddar Bageriet – 15 Riddargatan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-660-3375; bread bakery good for lunch; serves sandwiches.
●Saturnus – 6 Eriksbergsgatan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-611-7700; cafesaturnus.se; French-style café notable for pastries; try bulle (bun sprinkled with cardamom or cinnamon, sprinkled with “pearl sugar.”
●Vete-Katten – 55 Kungsgatan (Central); 011-46-08-208-405; vettekatten.se; Swedish pastries and sweets, such as semla (sweet bun filled with almond paste and whipped cream, eaten during Lent), Mazarin prinsesstarta (green marzipan-wrapped sponge cake, filled with custard and whipped cream), and dammsugare (marzipan cylinder, frosted, almond-paste pastry).
●Xoko – 15 Rorstrandsgatan (Vasastan/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-318-487; xoko.se; bakery that serves sandwiches at lunch and, after 5, tapas; make sure to try “princess cake,” marzipan-iced cake with raspberries.



BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Absolut Icebar Stockholm – 4 Vasaplan (Norrmalm, at Nordic Sea Hotel); 011-46-08-5056-3124; absoluticebar.com; world’s 1^st permanent “ice bar”; parka-zipped guests enjoy cocktails and local food served on ice plates.
●Bar Le Rouge – 2 Brunnsgrand (Gamla Stan); 011-46-08-5052-4460; lerouge.se; red-velvet-bedecked fantasy; on quiet street.
●Café Opera – 10 Jakobs Torg (Central/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-676-5807; cafeopera.se; beautiful.
●Gondolen – 6 Stadsgarden (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-641-7090; eriks.se; panoramic views.
●Judit & Bertil – 38 Bergsunds Strand (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-669-3131; juditbertil.se; sight of scandal few years ago when congressman kissed journalist while on duty; tourist free.
●KB – 7 Smalandsgatan (Norrmalm); 011-46-08-679-6032; konstnarssbaren.se; classic Swedish bar-restaurant with murals dating from 1930s, depicting swilling Vikings and tipsy monks.
●Kaken – 66 Regeringsgatan (Norrmalm); 011-46-08-206-010; kaken.r1900.se; bistro-pub.
●Kvarnen – 4 Tjarhovsgatan (Brna); 011-46-08-643-0380; kvarnen.com; vast beer hall dating from 1907; seeps tradition.
●Malarpaviljongen – 64 Norr Malarstrand (Kungsholmen); 011-46-08-650-8701; malarpaviljongen.se; open-air café-lounge with 3 floating decks; among Stockholm’s most popular summer hangouts.
●Nobis Hotel – 2-4 Norrmalmstorg (Norrmalm); 011-46-08-614-1000; nobishotel.se; Gold Bar is fashionista-friendly; inner courtyard much more comfortable and has impressive soaring atrium.
●Och Himlen Dartill – 78 Gotgatan (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-660-6068; restauranghimlen.se; panoramic views atop skyscraper.
●Peppar – 34 Torsgatan (Norrmalm/Vasastaden); 011-46-08-342-052; festive; Tex-Mex.
●Riche – 4 Birger Jarlsgatan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-545-03560; riche.se; open since 1893.
●Sturehof – 2 Stureplan (Stureplan); 011-46-08-440-5730; sturehof.com; avoid 1^st bar and move on to middle; green ballerina skirts cover ceiling lamps; crowd slightly younger.
●Snotty – 90 Skanegatan (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-644-3910; facebook.com/pages/Snotty/137198029671889; rock-n-roll snob bar.



HOTELS
●Ett Hem – 2 Sköldungagatan (Lärkstaden); 011-46-08-200-590; Small Luxury Hotel; charming, early 20^th Century townhouse; 12 stylish rooms & suites; superbly comfortable rooms, spa, library, bar; lunch & dinner menu; low-key, yet elegant ambiance.
●1^st Hotel Reisen – 12 Skeppsbron (Gamla Stan); 011-46-08-223-260; firsthotels.com/reisen; former 17^th Century coffeehouse; on water; smallish rooms, expansive breakfast.
●Grand Hotel – 6-8 Sodra Blasieholmshamnen (Central); 011-46-08-679-3500; grandhotel.se; landmark, since 1874, looks over Parliament buildings; prohibitively expensive.
●Hotel J – 1 Ellensviksv (Nacka Strand); 011-46-08-601-3000; hotelj.com.
●Hotel Skeppsholmen – 1 Grona Gangen (Skeppsholmen); 011-46-08-407-2300; hotelskeppsholmen.com; affordable; attached by bridge to Stockholm city center; just short walk to city center and old town; in 2 long, 1699 buildings, built to house Sweden’s Royal Marines; casually luxurious, historically protected, and ultramodern; 81 rooms; Baltic views from restaurant patio; next door to Museums of Architecture, Far Eastern Antiquities, and Modern Art; within walking distance of area’s antique ships and waterfront restaurants; has bikes available for guests’ use.
●Nobis Hotel – 2-4 Norrmalmstorg (Norrmalm); 011-46-08-614-1000; nobishotel.se; great service and perfect location; comfortable and stylish.
●Nordic Sea Hotel – 4 Vasaplan (Norrmalm); 011-46-08-5056-3000; nordicseahotel.se; modern; Madonna could check in here bare-breasted and no one would raise eyebrow; nothing in Scandinavia quite like this hotel, voted “World’s Sexiest Hotel” by Elle; lies on either side new square, Vasaplan, adjacent to airport express rail link and central rail station; room choice is “watery calm” in 367-room Nordic Sea or “post-minimalist luminescence” in 175-room Nordic Light; Nordic Sea features 2.4K-gallon aquarium and steel walls constructed from ship hulls; comfortable rooms with elegant simplicity, along with beautiful bathrooms; Nordic Light, equally modern, equally angular, and positioned just across boulevard from more conservative twin, is more intriguing; suggestive light patterns projected onto bleach-walls of both bedrooms and public areas recreate northern lights.
●Rival – 3 Mariatorget (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-545-789-2400; rival.se; 96 rooms with black & white photographs from Swedish-made or -set movies.
●Scandic Grand Central – 70 Kungsgatan; 011-46-08-5125-2000; scandichotels.com/grandcentral; reliable, hip chain; 391 rooms; stylish with rock’n’roll music theme; ask for corner suite (high ceilings, hardwood floors, kingsize bed); huge bathrooms; restaurant.



RESTAURANTS
●Brasserie Le Rouge – 2 Brunnsgrand (Gamla Stan); 011-46-08-5052-4498; lerouge.se; Daniel Couet and Melker Andersson are well-known chefs behind Le Rouge, together since 1995 and running entire F12 group, of which Le Rouge is part; cozy atmosphere reminiscent of fin de siecle Moulin Rouge Paris; 1.2K square meters divided between 3 levels; classic and traditional French cuisine, but also includes Italian classics.
●Djuret – 5 Lilla Nygatan (Yxsmedsgrand); 011-46-08-506-40084; djuret.se; antlers and animal heads line walls; feels like country tavern; traditional Scandinavian, head-to-toe animal food preparation; try venison rack with deer tongue ragout; closes starting end of June for 2 months and only serves barbecued pig in courtyard behind building.
●F12 – 12 Fredsgatan (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-248-052; f12.se; in high-ceilinged Royal Academy of Arts space; among Stockholm’s premier restaurants; decor is hip and ultrasophisticated, even nightclubish, with apple-green and lime-colored walls; long, shimmering curtains; uncluttered minimalism; attracts government officials at lunch, trendy clientele in evening; menu offers choices either “innovative” or “traditional”; best traditional choices are beef carpaccio with Parmesan, seafood bouillabaisse with saffron, codfish bacalao with white onions, or navarin of suckling lamb with chanterelles.
●Fafangan – 3 Klockstapelsbacken (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-642-9900; fafangan.se; brunch with lovely view.
●Fjaderholmarnas Krog – Fjaderholmarnas docks (Fjaderholmarna, deck on water); 011-46-08-718-3355; fjaderholmarnaskrog.se; book ahead.
●Fotografiska Cafe – 22 Stadsgardshamnen (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-5090-0500; fotografiska.eu; former tollhouse on quayside; even if exhibits poor, view from café worth visit.
●Frantzen/Lindeberg – 21 Lilla Nygatan (Gamla Stan); 011-46-08-208-580; frantzen-lindeberg.com; beautiful luxury restaurant with innovative meals.
●Gildas Rum – 79 Skanegatan (Sodermain); 011-46-08-714-7798; bright café with knick-knacks and excellent carrot cake.
●Den Gyldene Freden – 51 Österlånggatan (Gamla Stan); 011-46-08-24-97-60; gyldenefreden.se; said to be Stockholm’s oldest tavern (since 1722 in structure built 1721), owned by Swedish Academy; members frequent on Thursday nights; cozy dining rooms named for Swedish historical figures who were patrons; today popular with artists, lawyers, and writers; good traditional Swedish cooking, especially fresh Baltic fish and local game, along with more modern dishes like sautéed duck breast with pickled pumpkin, baked char with wasabi flavoring, and beef carpaccio on goat-cheese toast with citrus salsa; desserts range from warm rose-hip soup with vanilla ice cream to lingonberry symphony or, longtime favorite, Stockholm’s best dark chocolate cake, served with fresh raspberries and coffee ice cream.
●Helin & Voltaire – 14 Rosendalsvagen (Djurgarden); 011-46-08-664-5108; helinvoltaire.com; café that looks like from fairy tale; excellent pastries.
●Kaken – 66 Regeringsgatan (Norrmalm); 011-46-08-206-010; kaken.r1900.se; bistro-pub.
●KB – Smalandsgatan 7 (Norrmalm); 011-46-08-679-6032; konstnarssbaren.se; classic Swedish bar-restaurant with murals dating from 1930s, depicting swilling Vikings and tipsy monks.
●Martins Grona – 91 Regeringsgatan (Center); 011-46-08-411-5850; martinsgrona.com; vegetarian lunch spot.
●Matthias Dahlgren – 6-8 Sodra Blasieholmshamnen (Central, at Grand Hotel); 011-46-08-679-3584; mathiasdahlgren.com; former, Michelin-starred chef; Swedish food with rural sensibility.
●Mellqvist Kaffebar – 4 Rorstrandsgatan (Vasastan/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-302-380; hole-in-wall that serves city’s best espresso; good for weekend brunch.
●Moderna Museet – Skeppsholmen; 011-46-08-5195-6291-5282; modernamuseet.se; lavish weekend brunch buffet; for restaurant eating, reservations essential because only 2 seatings (11:30 and 2); otherwise, try café on outdoor terrace.
●19 Glas – 19 Stora Nygatan (Gamla Stan); 011-46-08-723-1919; 19glas.com; cramped, tiny; locally-produced ingredients.
●Nytorget Urban Deli – 4 Nytorget (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-599-09180; urbandeli.org; bustling, concrete-floored restaurant and bar; off tourist path; Asian and Swedish food.
●Café Opera – 10 Jakobs Torg (Central/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-676-5807; cafeopera.se; beautiful.
●Operakallaren – Karl XII, 3 S Torg (Central/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-676-5800; operakallan.se; beautiful.
●Paus Bar & Kok – 18 Rorstrandsgatan (Vasastan/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-344-405; restaurangpaus.se; tiled dining-room walls hint at previous charcuterie incarnation; try grilled steak and scampi risotto; popular haunt for post-work aperitifs.
●Petite France – 6 John Ericcsongatan (Kungsholmen); 011-46-08-618-2800; petitefrance.se; city’s most authentic French bakery and café; great breakfast locale.
●Pontus! – 1 Brunnsgatan (Stureplan Square); 011-46-08-5452-7300; pontusfrithiof.com; 3-level, nightlife beacon; oysters & champagne bar, cocktail bar, sushi bar, dim sum station, and restaurant; custom-made wallpaper creates illusion of being in fantastical library where Dangerous Book for Boys and Our Man in Havana are stacked alongside Pontus!’s own cookbook; order Nordic-and Asian-influenced cocktails such as Dragon’s Kiss, with fresh ginger juice and Absolut Citron.
●Rakultur – 2 Kungstensgatan (Central/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-696-2325; rakultur.se; sushi bar.
●Riche – 4 Birger Jarlsgatan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-545-03560; riche.se; open since 1893.
●Riddar Bageriet – 15 Riddargatan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-660-3375; bread bakery good for lunch; serves sandwiches.
●Rolf’s Kok – 41 Tegnergatan (Vasastan); 011-46-08-101-696; rolfskok.se; this unfortunately named restaurant is open on Sundays, when most other restaurants aren’t; crazy bistro atmosphere.
●Rosendals Tradgard – 12 Rosendalsterrassen (Djurgarden); 011-46-08-5458-1270; rosendalstradgard.se; oasis of artisanal organic baked goods, sandwiches, and soups.
●Saturnus – 6 Eriksbergsgatan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-611-7700; cafesaturnus.se; French-style café notable for pastries; try bulle (bun sprinkled with cardamom or cinnamon, sprinkled with “pearl sugar.”
●Sonja’s Grek – 54 Bondegatan (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-702-2229; sonjasgrek.se; on Sunday nights, all entrees at reduced prices; good Greek food.
●Stadshus Kallaren – 1 Hantverkargatan (Kungsholmen); 011-46-08-5063-2200; “City Hall Restaurant”; good smorgasbord; where Nobel festivities take place.
●Sturehof – 2 Stureplan (Stureplan); 011-46-08-440-5730; sturehof.com; seafood.
●Thelins – 43 Sankt Eriksgatan (Kungsholmen); 011-46-08-651-1900; thelinskonditori.se; Swedish pastries and sweets; unprepossessing.
●Vassa Eggen Steak House – 29 Birger Jarlsgatan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-216-169; vassaeggen.com; simple, a la carte menu; not really steakhouse, name chosen for effect.
●Veranda – 6-8 Sodra Blasieholmshamnen (Central, at Grand Hotel); 011-46-08-679-3500; grandhotel.se; try smorgasbord.
●Vete-Katten – 55 Kungsgatan (Central); 011-46-08-208-405; vettekatten.se; Swedish pastries and sweets, such as semla (sweet bun filled with almond paste and whipped cream, eaten during Lent), Mazarin prinsesstarta (green marzipan-wrapped sponge cake, filled with custard and whipped cream), and dammsugare (marzipan cylinder, frosted, almond-paste pastry).
●Restaurant Volt – 16 Kommendorsgatan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-662-3400; restaurangvolt.se; sparsely furnished room; can order a la carte or set course menus; try rabbit with carrots and dandelion.
●Xoko – 15 Rorstrandsgatan (Vasastan/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-318-487; xoko.se; bakery that serves sandwiches at lunch and, after 5, tapas; make sure to try “princess cake,” marzipan-iced cake with raspberries.
●Zink Grill – 5 Biblioteksgatan (Stureplan); 011-46-08-611-4222; zinkgrill.se; French bistro.



SERVICES
●Raison D’Etre Spa & Fitness – 6-8 Sodra Blasieholmshamnen (Central, at Grand Hotel); 011-46-08-679-3500; grandhotel.se; “be rested” massage is must; lounge has actual deck chairs from Swedish ocean liners of 30s; also, pool has black slate bottom, to simulate black Stockholm waters.



SHOPPING
●Acne Archive – 53 Torsgatan (Norrmalm/Vasastaden); 011-46-08-302-725; acnestudios.com; edgy clothing by Swedish Acne label.
●Aplace Below – 79 Eriksgatan (Kungsholmen); 011-46-08-325-110; aplace.com; boutique chain specializing in international designers, many Swedish; this basement branch sells at reduced prices.
●Byredo Parfums – 6 Mäster Samuelsgatan (Central); 011-46-08-5250-2610; byredo.com; try Black Saffron, Blanche (white rose, musk, pink pepper, and peony), Pulp, or Treehouse.
●Cupcake STHLM – 83 Sankt Eriksgotan (Kungsholmen); 011-46-08-83-8083; cupcakesthlm.se; pastry store.
●Flux – 14 Tjarhovsgatan (Arenan, Fryshyset); 011-46-08-693-0500; fluxshop.se; from t-shirts to art objects, all with focus on modern, quirky design.
●Grandpa – 21 Sodermannagatan (Sodermain); 011-46-08-643-6080; grandpa.se; vintage clothing, music, beer.
●Svensk Hemslojd – 44 Sveavagen (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-232-115; svenskhemslojd.com; traditional crafts: glass, lace, linens, pottery, wood carvings, etc.; outfits Nobel banquet.
●Illums Bolighus – 27 Hamngatan (Central); 011-46-08-718-5500; illumsbolighus.dk; Danish department store.
●Kocksgatan 17 Herrekipering – 17 Kocksgatan (Sodermain); 011-46-08-408-15014; kocksgatan17.se; elegant men’s wear store.
●Lisa Larsson – 48 Bondegatan (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-643-6153; lisalarssonsecondhand.com; mounds of vintage clothes.
●Magasin 3 – Frihamnen; 011-46-08-5456-8040; magasin3.com; art gallery.
●Nordiska Kompaniet – 18-20 Hamngatan (Central); 011-46-08-762-8000; nk.se; better known as “NK”; Scandinavian department store.
●Clas Ohlson – Gallerian, 37 Hamngatan (Central); 011-46-08-5451-8990; clasohlson.se; largest Swedish hardware chain; sells technical tools, car accessories, electronics, computer accessories, toys, lamps, clocks, and watches.
●Orrefors-Kosta Boda – 15 Birger Jarlsgatan (Center); 011-46-08-545-040-84; orrefors.se or kostaboda.com; 2 companies’ shared store; called “crystal palace” in Stockholm’s center; Orrefors focuses on clear vases and stemware, while Kosta Boda boasts more colorful and artistic glass pieces.
●Ostermalms Saluhall – Ostermalmstorg (Ostermalm); saluhallen.com; city’s most famous food market; flamboyant 19^th Century architecture.
●P.A. & Co. – 8 Riddargatan; 011-46-08-611-0845; paco.se; stylish restaurant serving delicious, traditional-style Swedish food.
●Papercutshop – 24 Krukmakargatan (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-133-574; papercutshop.se; books, DVDs, and magazines.
●Parlans – 38 Nytorgsgatan (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-660-7010; parlanskonfektyr.se; caramels.
●Petite France – 6 John Ericcsongatan (Kungsholmen); 011-46-08-618-2800; petitefrance.se; city’s most authentic French bakery.
●POCK – 19 Heleneborgsgatan (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-668-1011; pock.nu; full name is Per Olsson Choklad & Konditori; pastry shop.
●Riddar Bageriet – 15 Riddargatan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-660-3375; bread bakery and French pastry shop; re bread, try Rag Arnold (strong rye bread named after Arnold Schwarzenegger); remazarin (frosted pastry filled with almond paste) and catalan (similar with raspberry).
●6/5/4 – 27 Nytorgsgatan (Sodermain); 011-46-08-640-4654; sexfemfyra.se; hybrid clothing and surf shop with espresso bar.
●Tosse Bageriet – 77 Karlavagen (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-662-2430; tosse.se; traditional Swedish bakery.
●Ulrike Sandstrom – 36 Norrbackagatan (Birkastan); 011-46-08-5456-4410; ulrikasandstrom.se; pocketsize shop; local women’s clothing designer.
●Very Important Clothes – 5 Skomakargatan (Gamla Stan); 011-46-08-100-092; lovely boutique.
●Carin Wester – 24 Rorstrandsgatan (Vasastan/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-305-415; carinwester.com; women’s clothing.
●Xoko – 15 Rorstrandsgatan (Vasastan/Norrmalm); 011-46-08-318-487; xoko.se; bakery run by Sweden’s baker to Nobel Prize banquets.



SIGHTS & SITES
●Arkitekturmuseet – 4 Exercisplan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-5872-7000; arkitekturmuseet.se; architecture museum; make sure to see Gingerbread House.
●Mikael Blomkvist Residence – 1 Bellmansgatan (Sodermalm); home of Stieg Larsson’s fictional detective.
●Dansens Hus – 12 Barnhusgatan (Norrmalm); 011-46-08-5089-9090; dansenshus.se; make effort to see productions here.
●Djurgarden – island that is Skansen site.
●Drottningholm Palace – Lovon Island; Swedish royal family’s private residence; 011-46-08-402-6000; royalcourt.se.
●Eriksdalbadet Swimming Center – 20 Hammarby Slussvag (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-5084-0258; eriksdalsbadet.se.
●Fjaderholmarna Islands – take downtown ferry (20 minute trip); in heart of Stockholm island archipelago.
●Fotografiska – 22 Stadsgardshamnen (Sodermalm); 011-46-08-5090-0500; fotografiska.eu; former Art Nouveau tollhouse on quayside; exhibits vary in quality.
●Gamla Stan – gamla-stan-stockholm.se; city’s oldest part.
●Hallwyl House – 4 Hamngatan (Ostermalm, facing Berzelii Park); 011-46-08-402-3099; hallwylskamuseet.se; built 1893-98; designed by Isak Gustaf Clason for Count Walther von Hallwyl and his wife, Wilhelmina; created to accommodate their extensive art collection; donated to Swedish State in 1920.
●Hamngatan – Center; among city’s main shopping streets.
●Humle Garden – 31 Humlegardsgatan (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-5450-7656; stockholm.se/humlegarden; green oasis.
●Junibacken – Galarvarvsvagen (Djurgarden); 011-46-08-587-230-000; junibacken.se; Pippi Longstocking amusement park.
●Klattercentret – 20 Banvaktsvägen (Ostermalm); 011-46-08-730-0093; klattercentret.se; indoor climbing center with 14 meter walls and cave-like boulders.
●Kulturhuset – 3 Sergels Torg (Center); 011-46-08-5083-1400; kulturhuset.stockholm.se; Stockholm’s biggest tourism attraction; culture museum.
●Metro (Tunnelbana, T-Centralen) – Klarabergsgatan (Vasagatan); 011-46-08-600-1000; sl.se; beneath Swedish capital lies intricate web underground train lines; more than 90 of 100 stations in 110km system (sometimes referred to as “world’s longest art gallery,” decorated with installations, mosaics, paintings & sculptures by 150 artists since 1950s.
●Moderna Museet – 61 Klaravergsviadukten (Skeppsholm); 011-46-08-5195-5289; modernamuseet.se; modern art.
●Nationalmuseum – 2 Holmamiralens Väg (Blasieholmen Peninsula); 011-46-08-5195-4352; nationalmuseum.se; impressive art collection due to benefactors, King Gustav III and Carl Gustaf Tessin; founded in 1792 as Kungliga Museet (“Royal Museum”); present building opened in 1866, when renamed Nationalmuseum; home to about 500K Middle Ages to 1900 drawings; prominent Rembrandt and Dutch 17^th Century collection; paintings, porcelain, and sculptures; modern art, as well.