Thursday, March 14, 2013


Hotel des Alpes – 12 Rue de la Poste; 011-33-04-5045-0456;; clean, friendly, mom-&-pop hotel with affordable doubles.

Le Freti – 12 Rue Ste.-Claire; 011-33-04-5051-2952;; notable fondue.
Nature et Saveur – Place des Cordeliers; 011-33-04-5045-8229;; intimate, lunch-only venue serving organic dishes.

Sights & Sites
Musee-Chateau d’Annecy – Place du Chateau; 011-33-04-5033-8730;; castle that contains artifacts & contemporary art.
Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau – among city’s most beautiful streets; Rousseau lived at #13.
Rue Ste.-Claire “Open-Air Market” – Rue Ste.-Claire (old city); dates back to 12th Century; from regional cheese stalls, ask for Beaufort, sometimes called “prince of cheese.”
St.-Pierre Cathedral – Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau; 011-33-04-5033-8888.

BONNEVAL-SUR-ARC (includes Le Grand-Bornand & Lanslebourg)
Chalet-Hotel Les Fermes de Pierre & Anna – Les Plans (Le Grand-Bornand); 011-33-04-5051-5499;

Auberge d’Oul – Vieux Village; 011-33-04-7905-8799;; basement, hole-in-wall destination restaurant; fondue.
Le Criou – Vallonet; 011-33-04-7905-9711;; open year round; seasonal menus; notable for tartiflette (casserole made with reblochon).
Le Ferme de Lormay – Le Grand-Bornand; 011-33-04-5002-2429;; homey 20-seat restaurant; tartiflette.

Cooperative Laitiere Haute-Maurienne Vanoise – 36 Rue de l’Arc (Lanslebourg); 011-33-04-7905-9279;; village cheese cooperative; offers daily cheese-making tours.

Clubhouse – 74 Promenade des Sonnailles; 011-33-04-5090-9656;; feels like art deco tree-house; exterior has black forest cuckoo clock charm; just 6 guestrooms; book for at least week; 1st class bar; meticulous chef.

Le Chalet du Lac – Les Confins, “Laythet” (La Clusaz); 011-33-04-5002-5326;; wooden chalet lost in mountains.

Bars & Nightclubs
Le White – Jardin Alpin (at Cheval Blanc Hotel); 011-33-04-7900-5050;; gorgeously-designed spot with great hot chocolate.

Cheval Blanc – Jardin Alpin; 011-33-04-7900-5050;; 5-star hotel.
Le Paddock – Rue des Verdons; 011-33-04-7904-1635;; 1 of few 2-star hotels in city; affordable yet stylish; small rooms.

Il Vino – Porte de Courcheval; 011-33-04-7908-2962;; French-Italian; 1 Michelin star; affordable with extensive wine list.
La Mangeoire – Rue Park City; 011-33-06-5066-8042;; traditional French food; expensive; reputedly, hottest “party spot” in Alps; book well in advance; farmhouse-chic dining room.

Galeries Bartoux – Espace Diamant; 011-33-04-7901-0010;; art gallery with New York branch; deals in Dali, Foujita, Robert Indiana, and Picasso.

Sights & Sites
La Saulire – resort’s highest point.

GRENOBLE (includes La Grave & Vizelle)
Bars & Nightclubs
La Bois des Fees – Route Nationale 91 (La Grave); 011-33-04-7679-8103;; among more popular bars in La Grave; wide selection beers on-tap & more bottles than any fan could ever get down; house speciality is potent rum drink that will do you no favors on slopes.
La Soupe aux Choux – 7 Route Lyon; 011-33-04-7687-0567;

Hotel Castillan – Route Nationale 91 (La Grave); 011-33-04-7679-9004;

La Bois des Fees – Route Nationale 91 (La Grave); 011-33-04-7679-8103;; best pizza.
Café de la Table Ronde – 1 Ter Rue d’Agier; 011-33-04-7644-5141;; Art Nouveau-style; said to be France’s 2nd oldest café; try café crème in morning.
Hotel Castillan – RN 91 (La Grave); 011-33-04-7679-9004;; cozy, French brasserie.

Sights & Sites
Le Magasin – 155 Cours Berriat; 011-33-04-7621-9584;; contemporary art space in 1900 industrial building made by Gustave Eiffel’s workshop.
MC2 – 4 Rue Paul Claudel; 011-33-04-7600-7954;; public concert and theater space.
Musee Dauphinois – 30 Rue Maurice Gignoux; 011-33-04-5758-8901;
Musee de Grenoble – 5 Place de Lavalette; 011-33-04-7663-4444;; France’s 1st modern art museum; artists represented include Bonnard, Braque, Chagall, Dufy, Klee, Leger, Magritte, Matisse (Interieur aux Aubergines), Picasso (Femme Lisant), and Signac.
102 – 102 Rue d’Alembert; 011-33-04-7670-1200;; alternative performance space in former industrial building.
Parliament – Place St.-Andre; Gothic and Renaissance style.
St.-Andre Church – 6 Rue Hector Berlioz; 011-33-04-7642-3654;; 13th Century red-brick church.
Stendahl Museum – 1 Rue Hector Berlioz; 011-33-04-7654-4414;
Theatre Ste.-Marie-d’en-Bas – 38 Rue Tres-Cloires; 011-33-04-7642-0150; church-turned-performance venue.

Le Chalet – 367 Route du Cret; 011-33-04-5021-0101;; décor reduced to essentials; lovely.
Les Chalets des Fermes de Marie – 144 Chemin du Petit Darbon; 011-33-04-5090-6320;
A Coin du Feu – 252 Route du Telepherique de Rochebrune; 011-33-04-5090-6320;
Les Fermes de Marie – 163 Chemin de la Riante Colline; 011-33-04-5093-0310;; lovely.
Flocons de Sel – 1775 Route du Leutaz; 011-33-04-5021-4999;; 2 private chalets and 6 modern rooms.

La Ferme de Mon Pere – 367 Route du Cret; 011-33-04-5021-0101;; excellent.
Flocons de Sel – 1775 Route du Leutaz; 011-33-04-5021-4999;; 3 Michelin stars.
Le Lodge Park – 100 Rue d’Arly; 011-33-04-5093-0503;
Hotel Mont Blanc – 29 Rue Ambroise Martin; 011-33-04-5021-2002;

La Croix – ski shop.

Chalet Pelerin – Le Miroir; 970-349-7761;; freestanding mountain hut; stone & wood walls without, hides & soft pelts within; indoor sea-salt water pool, Finnish sauna, Turkish bath, outdoor jacuzzi, massage area, airport transfers, personal guide, staff for treatments, ski equipment, heli-skiing.

Chateau St. Philippe – 14 miles from Chambery; 310-295-1175 or 800-920-1032;; $2K per night; sleeps 20; built as priory in 1032.

Sights & Sites
Chauvet Cave – on limestone cliff above former Ardèche River bed (in Gorges de l’Ardèche);; UNESCO World Heritage Site; facsimile open to public.

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