BORDEAUX

(includes Saint-Émilion)

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●L’Apollo Bar – 19 Place Fernand Lafargue; 011-33-5-5601-2505; myspace.com/lapollobar; retro-trendy bar.
●Azuli – 55 Cours d’Alsace-Lorraine; 011-33-5-5679-3946; electronic house music club.
●Bar a Vin – 3 Cours du 30 Juillet; 011-33-5-5600-4347; wine bar.
●L’Ibaia Café – Quai des Chartrons; 011-33-5-5600-4535; ibaiacafe.fr; on Garonne River’s left bank; in front of Place de la Bourse, with its ultra-thin miroir d’eau (water mirror); pulsing house music.
●Ice Room – Hangar 19, Quai des Marques; 011-33-5-5700-1015; iceroom.fr; vaulted white club that has parka-clad waitstaff serving icy vodka drinks; try Sex at H19 (vodka, Chambord, Midori, pineapple juice, and cherry juice).
●Max Bordeaux Wine Gallery & Cellar – 14 Cours de L’Intendance; 011-33-5-5729-2381; maxbordeaux.com; vending machines dispense cards that entitle you to 8 tastings of varying qualities, depending on how much you pay.
●Le Seeko’O Bar – 54 Quai de Bacalan; 011-33-5-5639-0707; seekoo-hotel.com; popular watering hole looking over Garonne River.



HOTELS
●L’Avant Scene – 36 Rue Borie; 011-33-5-5729-2539; lavantscene.fr; stylish 9-room hotel in 18^th Century stone town house just off waterfront.
●La Chartreuse – Cos Sud (Saint-Estephe); 011-33-5-5673-1550; estournel.com; charming 5 bedroom, 19^th Century house located on elevated situation at village edge with views to Gironde Estuary; small vineyard adjacent to garden; costs $19K to rent whole structure; email to find out about individual rooms; 2 suites; 6 guestrooms, indoor pool; Indo-Asiatic theme.
●Regent Grand Hotel Bordeaux – 2-5 Place de la Comedie; 011-33-5-5730-4444; theregentbordeaux.com; presides over Bordeaux’ most famous square and houses Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Presoir d’Argent.
●Seeko’O Hotel – 54 Quai de Bacalan; 011-33-5-5639-0707; seekoo-hotel.com; modern, high concept; flat screen televisions, wifi, etc.



RESTAURANTS
●L’Autre Petit Bois – 12 Place du Parlement; 011-33-5-5648-0293; décor inside consists of canopy or artificial trees; wine bar and light food.
●La Brasserie Bordelaise – 50 Rue St.-Remi; 011-33-5-5787-1191; try bouef de Bazas.
●CAPC – 7 Rue Ferrere; 011-33-5-5600-8150; rosab.net; modern art museum with sunny rooftop café.
●Le Gabriel – 10 Place de la Bourse; 011-33-5-5630-0080; bordeaux-gabriel.fr; Michelin starred; chef Francois Adamski has been awarded both Bocuse d’Or and Meilleur Ouvrier de France (only 1 of 2 chefs ever to be so honored); try risotto-stuffed squid and lamb – regardless of how prepared.
●Le Presoir d’Argent – 2-5 Place de la Comedie (at Regent Grand Hotel Bordeaux); 011-33-5-5730-4444; theregentbordeaux.com; presides over Bordeaux’ most famous square; Michelin-starred.
●Septieme Peche – 65 Cours de Verdun; 011-33-5-5606-4216; 7peche.fr; jewel-box of restaurant; excellent.
●Utopia – 5 Place Camille Julian; 011-33-5-5679-3925; cinemas-utopia.org; art-house cinema and café in old church.



SHOPPING
●La Cour de Josephine – 26 Rue des Remparts; 011-33-5-5644-1677; sells 18^th Century-inspired frocks by local designers.
●Cour Mably & Salle Capitulaire – 3 Rue Mably; 011-33-5-5644-0158; indoor-outdoor art gallery in 17^th Century Dominican convent.
●Florence Kooijman – 13 Rue des Remperts; 011-33-5-5648-2095; bespoke shoes.
●Le Garage Moderne – 1 Rue des Etrangers; 011-33-5-5650-9133; legaragemoderne.org; junk-filled hanger with auto repair shop and raw art gallery.
●Hotel Lulu Mode & Chocolat – 011-33-2-9806-1851; vintage clothing.
●M. le Macaron – 38 Rue des Remperts; 011-33-9-6423-6465; mlemacaron.fr; reinvented delicacy chocolates.
●Maison Larnicol – 1 Cours de l’Intendance; 011-33-5-5658-7829; larnicol.com; designer chocolates.
●OK Daddy – 31 Rue Ste.-Colombe; 011-33-5-5681-0220; okdaddy.com; bookshop, clothing, and gallery that sells clubwear by Kulte.
●Le Rayon Frais – 31-33 Rue St.-James; 011-33-5-3351-1055; lerayonfrais.fr; streetwear shop that sells black jeans from Bleu de Paname and flannel shirts by Berangere Claire.
●Tsim-Tsum – 15 Place Fernand Lafargue; 011-33-6-6155-7297; boho frocks and designer jewelry.



SIGHTS & SITES
●Arret sur L’Image – Hangar 2 Quai Armand Lalande (Bassins a Flots); 011-33-5-5669-1648; arretsurlimage.com; gallery specializing in works on paper and furniture design.
●Bassins a Flots – once seedy harbor, now cleaned up and home to city’s most innovative galleries; take tram to get there.
●CAPC – 7 Rue Ferrere; 011-33-5-5600-8150; rosab.net; modern art museum with sunny rooftop café.
●Chateau Cheval Blanc – 1 Cheval Blanc (Saint-Émilion); 011-33-5-5755-5555; chateau-cheval-blanc.com; designed by French architect Christian de Portzamparc; new extension on 181 year-old winery is artwork: smooth sculpture rising from earth like concrete sails.
●Fonds Regional d’Art Contemporain – Hangar 2, Quai Armand Lalande (Bassins a Flots); 011-33-5-5624-7136; frac-aquitaine.net; gallery run by regional governmental body that collects works by contemporary French artists, as well as foreign.
●Miroir d’Eau – Place de la Bourse; part fountain and part art installation that reflects lit-up facades of adjacent palace.
●Musee des Arts Decoratifs – 39 Rue Bouffard; 011-33-5-5610-1400; both period rooms filled with dainty dollhouse artifacts, like harpsichords and vases, as well as 20^th and 21^st Century design.
●Sunday Markets – Marche des Quais (Quai des Chartrons); 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.; flea market: Marche St.-Michel (near St.-Michel Church); 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.