Friday, March 1, 2013


(includes Saint-Émilion)


L’Apollo Bar – 19 Place Fernand Lafargue; 011-33-5-5601-2505;; retro-trendy bar.
Azuli – 55 Cours d’Alsace-Lorraine; 011-33-5-5679-3946; electronic house music club.
Bar a Vin – 3 Cours du 30 Juillet; 011-33-5-5600-4347; wine bar.
L’Ibaia Café – Quai des Chartrons; 011-33-5-5600-4535;; on Garonne River’s left bank; in front of Place de la Bourse, with its ultra-thin miroir d’eau (water mirror); pulsing house music.
Ice Room – Hangar 19, Quai des Marques; 011-33-5-5700-1015;; vaulted white club that has parka-clad waitstaff serving icy vodka drinks; try Sex at H19 (vodka, Chambord, Midori, pineapple juice, and cherry juice).
Max Bordeaux Wine Gallery & Cellar – 14 Cours de L’Intendance; 011-33-5-5729-2381;; vending machines dispense cards that entitle you to 8 tastings of varying qualities, depending on how much you pay.
Le Seeko’O Bar – 54 Quai de Bacalan; 011-33-5-5639-0707;; popular watering hole looking over Garonne River.

L’Avant Scene – 36 Rue Borie; 011-33-5-5729-2539;; stylish 9-room hotel in 18th Century stone town house just off waterfront.
La Chartreuse – Cos Sud (Saint-Estephe); 011-33-5-5673-1550;; charming 5 bedroom, 19th Century house located on elevated situation at village edge with views to Gironde Estuary; small vineyard adjacent to garden; costs $19K to rent whole structure; email to find out about individual rooms; 2 suites; 6 guestrooms, indoor pool; Indo-Asiatic theme.
Regent Grand Hotel Bordeaux – 2-5 Place de la Comedie; 011-33-5-5730-4444;; presides over Bordeaux’ most famous square and houses Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Presoir d’Argent.
Seeko’O Hotel – 54 Quai de Bacalan; 011-33-5-5639-0707;; modern, high concept; flat screen televisions, wifi, etc.

L’Autre Petit Bois – 12 Place du Parlement; 011-33-5-5648-0293; décor inside consists of canopy or artificial trees; wine bar and light food.
La Brasserie Bordelaise – 50 Rue St.-Remi; 011-33-5-5787-1191; try bouef de Bazas.
CAPC – 7 Rue Ferrere; 011-33-5-5600-8150;; modern art museum with sunny rooftop café.
Le Gabriel – 10 Place de la Bourse; 011-33-5-5630-0080;; Michelin starred; chef Francois Adamski has been awarded both Bocuse d’Or and Meilleur Ouvrier de France (only 1 of 2 chefs ever to be so honored); try risotto-stuffed squid and lamb – regardless of how prepared.
Le Presoir d’Argent – 2-5 Place de la Comedie (at Regent Grand Hotel Bordeaux); 011-33-5-5730-4444;; presides over Bordeaux’ most famous square; Michelin-starred.
Septieme Peche – 65 Cours de Verdun; 011-33-5-5606-4216;; jewel-box of restaurant; excellent.
Utopia – 5 Place Camille Julian; 011-33-5-5679-3925;; art-house cinema and café in old church.

La Cour de Josephine – 26 Rue des Remparts; 011-33-5-5644-1677; sells 18th Century-inspired frocks by local designers.
Cour Mably & Salle Capitulaire – 3 Rue Mably; 011-33-5-5644-0158; indoor-outdoor art gallery in 17th Century Dominican convent.
Florence Kooijman – 13 Rue des Remperts; 011-33-5-5648-2095; bespoke shoes.
Le Garage Moderne – 1 Rue des Etrangers; 011-33-5-5650-9133;; junk-filled hanger with auto repair shop and raw art gallery.
Hotel Lulu Mode & Chocolat – 011-33-2-9806-1851; vintage clothing.
M. le Macaron – 38 Rue des Remperts; 011-33-9-6423-6465;; reinvented delicacy chocolates.
Maison Larnicol – 1 Cours de l’Intendance; 011-33-5-5658-7829;; designer chocolates.
OK Daddy – 31 Rue Ste.-Colombe; 011-33-5-5681-0220;; bookshop, clothing, and gallery that sells clubwear by Kulte.
Le Rayon Frais – 31-33 Rue St.-James; 011-33-5-3351-1055;; streetwear shop that sells black jeans from Bleu de Paname and flannel shirts by Berangere Claire.
Tsim-Tsum – 15 Place Fernand Lafargue; 011-33-6-6155-7297; boho frocks and designer jewelry.

Arret sur L’Image – Hangar 2 Quai Armand Lalande (Bassins a Flots); 011-33-5-5669-1648;; gallery specializing in works on paper and furniture design.
Bassins a Flots – once seedy harbor, now cleaned up and home to city’s most innovative galleries; take tram to get there.
CAPC – 7 Rue Ferrere; 011-33-5-5600-8150;; modern art museum with sunny rooftop café.
Chateau Cheval Blanc – 1 Cheval Blanc (Saint-Émilion); 011-33-5-5755-5555;; designed by French architect Christian de Portzamparc; new extension on 181 year-old winery is artwork: smooth sculpture rising from earth like concrete sails.
Fonds Regional d’Art Contemporain – Hangar 2, Quai Armand Lalande (Bassins a Flots); 011-33-5-5624-7136;; gallery run by regional governmental body that collects works by contemporary French artists, as well as foreign.
Miroir d’Eau – Place de la Bourse; part fountain and part art installation that reflects lit-up facades of adjacent palace.
Musee des Arts Decoratifs – 39 Rue Bouffard; 011-33-5-5610-1400; both period rooms filled with dainty dollhouse artifacts, like harpsichords and vases, as well as 20th and 21st Century design.
Sunday Markets – Marche des Quais (Quai des Chartrons); 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.; flea market: Marche St.-Michel (near St.-Michel Church); 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

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