(includes Chiusdino & Pievescola)
BAKERIES, COFFEE, ICE CREAM, JUICE & TEA
●Nannini – 24 Via Banchi di Sopra; 011-39-057-730-3080; gruponannini.it; for baked goods and espresso at stand-up bar; try ricciarelli (soft, almond-based cookies with crunchy tops and honey-vanilla flavor.
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
●Bar Il Palio – 47 Piazza del Campo; 011-39-057-728-2055; great for outside, after-dinner drinks with people-watching views.
●Da Trombicche – 66 Via del Terme; 011-39-057-728-8089; trombicche.it; 1 Euro spritzes at aperitivo time.
●Un Tubo – 2 Via del Luparello; 011-39-057-727-1312; untubo.it; live music club; wine cantina; members’ club but can pay entrance fee.
●Hotel Borgo San Felice – Castelnuovo Berardenga; 011-39-057-735-9260; relaisborgosanfelice.com; beautiful location looking over Chianti countryside; excellent restaurant; beautiful rooms with lovely views.
●Borgo Santo Pietro – Localite Palazzetto (Chiusdino); 011-39-057-775-1222; borgosantopietro.com; 35-minute drive from Siena; 11-room hotel; 13 acres of lush gardens; 13th Century villa; 1 room spa; excellent food.
●Borgo Scopeto – 14 Strada Comunale; 011-39-057-732-0001; borgoscopetorelais.it; 10 miles out of town; rural feel; 2 pool, spa, and tennis courts; view, especially at night, lovely.
●Campo Regio Relais – 25 Via della Sapienza; 011-39-057-722-2073; camporegio.com; excellent location outside main tourist fray but within major sites’ walking distance; Duomo panorama; friendly service.
●Casa Fabbri – 9 Strada di Cetinale (Sovicille); 011-39-057-731-1147; villacetinale.com; old Tuscan cottage that sits alone in olive grove on Montagnola Senese edge beside “Thebaid” (“Holy Wood”); property has private entrance to wood, with famous statues by Guiseppe Mazzuolil where Cardinal Flavio Chigi would spend much time in quiet contemplation; following recent renovation, property now includes 3 double bedrooms, each with own bathroom, as well as swimming pool & dining terrace with excellent views to south, towards Monte Amiata.
●La Cerbaia – 9 Strada di Cetinale (Sovicille); 011-39-057-731-1147; villacetinale.com; farmhouse at Montagnola Senese’s foot on Villa Cetinale estate; situated at end of private road between “Thebaid” (“Holy Wood”) & gardens; entirely independent with own garden & terrace and large swimming pool equipped with umbrellas and sunbeds; what was once pigsty has been converted into huge, well-equipped kitchen, dining room with table that seats up to 16 & living room with fireplace; pizza oven & ping pong; satellite tv, dvd player & stereo; sleeps 12/13.
●Relais La Suvera – Via della Suvera (Pievescola); 011-39-057-796-0300; lasuvera.it/en; featured in Trip to Italy; perched on hillside covered with forests & vineyards; view over Senese Chianti valley; few kilometers from medieval Colle Val d’Elsa; building has medieval origins, owned by Countess Ava Matilde de Franzosi, related to France King Clovis; looks like small village where Villa Papale is central pivot; around it is church dedicated to San Carlo Borromeo; extensive Italian garden, with statues, fountains & leafy trees; 32 rooms, 7 suites & 5 doubles in Villa Papale, all with history setting; 9 suites & 11 doubles in old farm & stables; every room in Villa Papale has special name tied to historical personage; modern health club; restaurant “L’Oliviera” located in old mill; outdoor heated pool with whirlpool.
●Villa Cetinale Gardens – 9 Strada di Cetinale (Sovicille); 011-39-057-731-1147; villacetinale.com.
●Enoteca I Terzi – 7 Via dei Termini; 011-39-057-744-329; enotrecaiterzi.it; for bistecca Fiorentina (grilled steak from prized Chianina breed); excellent wine list.
●Osteria le Logge – 33 Via del Porrione; 011-39-057-748-013; giannibrunelli.it; housed in former pharmacy, with beautiful open kitch; just off campo; be sure to ask for table in ground-floor sala with painted ceilings and armoires lined with wine bottles.
●Poggio Rosso – Castelnuovo Berardenga (at Hotel Borgo San Felice); 011-39-057-735-9260; relaisborgosanfelice.com; perfect Tuscan dishes; try steak Florentine.
●Tre Cristi – 1/7 Vicolo di Provenzano; 011-39-057-728-0608; trecristi.com; fresh seafood from Tuscan coast; open since 1830; inventive; try calamari Eggplant parmesan.
●Da Trombicche – 66 Via del Terme; 011-39-057-728-8089; trombicche.it; Osteria-type lunch place; simple with tables crammed with friends and plates that don’t stop coming; only 7 tables.
●Castel Monastero – 19 Monastero d’Ombrone; 011-39-057-757-0001; castelmonastero.com; spa.
●Antica Pizzacheria – 93/95 Via di Citta (in Palazzo della Chigiana); 011-39-057-728-9164; atmospheric deli with picnic offerings.
●Dolci Trame – 4 Via del Moro; 011-39-057-746-168; dolcitrame.it; wonderful, if pricey, women’s clothing.
●Mag – 49 Via dei Termini; 011-39-057-741-043; magboutique.it; fashion lovers’ must.
SIGHTS & SITES
●Monteriggioni – beautifully preserved village with watch towers.
●Museo Civico – 1 Piazza Il Campo; 011-39-057-729-2615; comune.siena.it; frescoes by, for example, Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti (Sala della Pace and Allegory of Good & Bad Government); climb to adjacent Torre Mangia’s top for tremendous countryside view.
●Museo dell’Opera del Duomo – 8 Piazza Duomo; 011-39-057-728-6300; operaduomo.siena.it; unfinished cathedral portion (would have been nave); make sure to see Maesta (spectacular, 2-sided altarpiece designed by Duccio, considered by some to be most important late medieval artwork).
●Museum of Art of Chianciano – 280 Viale della Liberta (Chianciano Terme, outside Siena); 011-39-057-860-732; museodarte.org; Dali, Delacroix, Goya, Magritte, Munch, Rembrandt, and Tiepolo; also modern shows and works.
●Piazza del Campo – center; ideal Italian palazza in front of city’s exquisite town hall.
●San Galgano – 40 miles from Siena; Benedictine Abbey; now roofless; evocative.
●Santa Maria della Scala – 1 Piazza Duomo; 011-39-057-753-4571; santamariadellascala.com; built as 11th Century hospital, transformed into enormous complex; includes archeological museum.
●Villa Cetinale Gardens – 9 Strada di Cetinale (Sovicille); 011-39-057-731-1147; villacetinale.com; originally built in 1680 on Etruscan settlement ruins, was transformed into Roman Baroque villa for Pope Alexander VII; lovely designed garden with climbing roses, vine-covered pergolas, antique statues & Scala Santa (“Holy Stair”) said to be “epitome of garden design” & among most beautiful in Italy; arrange visit in advance.