Saturday, July 20, 2013


(includes Montebuono di Magione, Montegabbione, Olmo, Passignano sul Trasimeno & Solomeo)

Cioccolateria Augusta Perusia – 2 Via Pinturicchio; 011-39-075-573-4577;; ice cream; try Raffaello (coconut-white chocolate).
La Fonte Maggiore – 3 Via della Gabbia; 011-39-075-573-2939; ice cream that focuses on rich, chocolate flavors distinguished by cocoa content.
Pasticceria Sandri – 32 Corso Vannuci; 011-39-075-572-4112; Swiss café since 1860; chandeliers hang fro vaulted, mural-covered ceiling; Perugian landmark; wood-paneled setting.

La Bottega del Vino – 1 Via del Sole; 011-39-075-571-6181;; jazz club & wine bar.
Gus – 19 Via Mazzini; 011-39-075-573-4365; outdoor tables perfect for glass prosecco during break from passeggiata along Corso Vannuci (city’s main drag); prime people-watching.
Osteria a Priori – 39 Via dei Priori; 011-39-075-572-7098;; small restaurant with tiny streetside patio that is good place for post-dinner drink.
Il Punto di Vista – 2 Via Indipendenza; 011-39-339-662-0326; go for sunset and sit at outdoor table while having glass of wine and looking out over Umbrian hills.

Borgo Mondoleto Country Hotel – 15 Strada Mandoleto; 011-39-075-529-3119;; surrounded by Tuscan countryside, near Empoli, Florence & Prato; 22 apartments & suites (with kitchens) for both short and long stays; made from farmhouses, Borgo built in 17th Century; fully equipped with all modern conveniences, as well as electronic system that controls guests’ functioning and safety; set in ancient park.
Locanda Solomeo Country House – 1 Via Carlo Alberto Dalla Chiesa (Solomeo); 011-39-075-529-3119;; ancient country residence transformed into charming country resort; restaurant; 12 elegantly furnished rooms.
Castello di Monterone – 3 Strada Montevile; 011-39-075-572-4214;; crenellated, 13th Century castle; small but fit for princess; 18 rooms set smong manicured courtyards, stone terraces, fragrant rose gardens; 2 onsite restaurants, and swimming pool; great views.
Hotel Brufani Palace – 12 Piazza Italia; 011-39-075-573-2541;; at Corso Vannuci’s end; 94 elegantly styled rooms; sweeping countryside views; basement level, glass-bottom pool exposing Etruscan ruins below.
Hotel Faliero – Via Case Sparse (Montebuono di Magione, on Lago Trasimeno); 011-39-075-847-6528;; no frills complex on lake.
Hotel La Rosetta – 19 Piazza Italia; 011-39-075-572-0841;; briskly efficient and impeccably central; higher-priced rooms have magnificent views.

Alter Ego – 2 Via Floramonti; 011-39-075-572-9527; oddly and unnecessarily chic but excellent food.
Faliero – Via Case Sparse (Montebuono di Magione, on Lago Trasimeno); 011-39-075-847-6528;; no frills trattoria frequented by Bruno Cucinelli’s employees; try torta al testo.
Osteria Macoma – Strada Fontana La Trinità (Olmo); 011-39-075-518-1053;; eclectic, Cucinelli-family favorite.
Osteria a Priori – 39 Via dei Priori; 011-39-075-572-7098;; small restaurant dedicated to Umbrian-sourced products.
Il Postale – 3 Strada Montevile; 011-39-075-572-4214;; Perugia’s only Michelin starred restaurant; 4 small tables in frescoed dining room in stone castle; modern menu; not prohibitive.
Ristorante Il Cantinone – 6 Via Ritorta; 011-39-075-573-4430; excellent pizza just few steps from duomo.
Ristorante la Taverna – 8 Via Streghe; 011-39-075-572-4128;; classic Umbrian food.
Trattoria da Faliero – 23 Via Case Sparse (Montebuono di Magione); 011-39-075-847-6528;; simple roadside spot overlooking water; short on signage but legendary among locals for its speciality, torta al testo, filled warm flatbread.
Vecchia Perusia – 9 Via Ulisse Rocchi; 011-39-075-572-5900; also known as "Da Franky" (owner is wisecracking guy known as "Franky Banana"); great food; try strangozzi (thick-noodle spaghetti).

Umbria in Vespa – 42 Via Case Sparse (San Savino); 011-39-075-843-062;; on Lake Trasimeno; good way to see lake environs.

Cucinelli Outlet Store – 6 Piazza Alberto Dalla Chiesa (Solomeo); 011-39-075-529-4855;; cashmere.
Mastri Carte Editori – 77 Via dei Priori; 011-39-075-572-5549;; everything decoupage, from minimalist lampshades to elaborate rocking horses.
Osteria a Priori – 39 Via dei Priori; 011-39-075-572-7098;; small speciality food shop dedicated to Umbrian-sourced products.

Capella di San Severo – Piazza Raffaello; 011-39-075-573-3864;; includes fresco by Pietro Vannuci (Perugino) and his pupil, Raphael.
Cathedral of San Lorenzo – Piazza IV Novembre; 011-39-075-572-3832; although church on this land since 900s, current version begun in 1345 from designs created by Fra Bevignate in 1300; building continued until 1587; doorway built in late 1700s; main facade never completed; inside, dramatic Gothic architecture, altarpiece by Signorelli, and sculptures by Duccio.
Ecclesiastical Museum of Umbria – 7 Via Beato Lodovico da Casoria; 011-39-347-874-0224;
Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria – 19 Corso Vannuci; 011-39-075-5866-8410;; Umbrian art kept in Palazzo dei Priori, grand stone building dating to 13th Century.
Lake Trasimeno – 10 Piazza Mazzini (Passignano sul Trasimeno, Servizio Turistico Territoriale del Trasimeno); 011-39-075-965-2484;; 10 miles outside of town; entry fee; hiking; Italy’s 4th largest lake (after Garda).
Perugia Chocolates – 47 Via San Sisto; 011-39-075-527-6796;; on town’s outskirts; offers tours.
Piazza IV Novembre – central square on which Cathedral and fountain dominate.
Pozzo Etrusco – 18 Piazza Danti; 011-39-075-573-3669;; eerie Etruscan well that dates to 3rd Century BC.
Rocca Paolina Fortress – Piazza Italia; 011-39-075-572-5778;; spooky, well-preserved medieval street warren that spreads out as city below current city.
La Scarzuola – Frazione Montegiove (Montegabbione); 011-39-076-383-7463;; by appointment only; located on dirt road next to former Franciscan convent; home to Roman-style buildings, theaters, villas, etc., modeled on Acropolis; surreal; by appointment only.
Il Teatro Cucinelli – 1 Via Giovine Italia (Solomeo); 011-39-075-529-4506;; concerts & plays.

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