Saturday, July 20, 2013


Panificio del Ghetto di Giovanni Bianchini – 167 Via Zuccarelli; 011-39-056-461-4182; for sfratti (stick-shaped biscuits filled with ground walnuts, honey, nutmeg, and orange peel).

Bar Centrale – 22 Piazza Della Repubblica; 011-39-056-461-7021.
One Bar Il Ghetto – 47 Via Zuccarelli; 011-39-056-461-5031.

Albergo Guastini – 4 Piazza F. Petruccioli; 01-39-056-461-4106;; only old town hotel; some rooms have magnificent views.
Il Tufo Rosa di Pavolini Annalisa – 97-101 Piazza F. Petruccioli; 011-39-056-461-7019;; 6 rooms in restored, “old town” house.

Ristorante Guastini – 4 Piazza F. Petruccioli; 01-39-056-461-4106;; terrific.
Hostaria del Ceccottino – 64 Piazza San Gregorio VII; 011-39-056-461-4273;; outdoor tables; good local food; try local wine, bianco de Pitigliano.
Trattoria La Chiave del Paradiso – 209 Via Vignoli; 011-39-056-461-4141; lovely location, excellent pasta; outdoor seating; popular with locals.

Little Jerusalem Association – Vicolo Marghera; 011-39-056-461-4230;; Pitigliano was home to Jews, possibly from 15th Century’s end; important refuge center; constructed temple in 1598; changing economic and social conditions determined constant, slow emigration of Pitigliano Jews towards cities and bigger centers; during war, many Jews saved by local population; organization promotes conservation of Jewish monuments (Synagogue, ritual bath, kosher cellar, kosher butcher, unleavened bread bakery, dye-works, cemetery, and Jewish museum).
Rafaella Agresti – 59D Piazza Fortezza Orsini; 011-39-347-055-8178;; tour guide with excellent English.

Church of San Rocco – Via Generale Orsini (at town end, near Porta di Sovana); has own charm that stems from incredible marble worked exterior and unique frescoes; dates to 12th or 13th Century; rose-colored exterior; on left outside wall carved low relief from 12th Century, showing nobleman with his thrust into 2 dragons’ mouths.
Jewish Cemetery – Strada Provinciale del Pantano (beyond Meleta Stream, which borders village to south); goes back to 16th Century’s 2nd half, when Count Niccolò IV Orsini gave small land parcel to his personal Jewish doctor, Davide De Pomis, who buried his wife there.
Jewish Museum of Culture – 16 Via Firenze; 011-39-056-461-6006;; remains of ritual bathing basins, wine cellar, kosher butcher shop and bakery, and restored synagogue, where religious services still held on Sabbath.
Alberto Manzi Open Air Archeological Museum – Strada Provinciale del Pantano (Cava del Gradone); 011-39-056-461-4067, 011-39-056-461-4074, or 011-39-347-796-8901 (call for tour);; educational museum; protects archeological site (Etruscan funerary monuments) from general deterioration and vandalism; guides explain how city was built over centuries, starting from Bronze Age; original round huts and Etruscan houses with 3 rooms and porticos; also underground “city of dead” and Etruscan Gradone necropolis with its various tombs.
Old Jewish Quarter (Ghetto) – well-preserved and can walk around for about 3 hours.
Orsini Palace – 25 Piazza Fortezza Orsini; 011-39-056-461-6074;; palace museum with several rooms featuring paintings by Zuccarelli (born in Pitigliano in 1702); also, Madonna carved in wood by Jacopo della Quercia (1371/74-1438), 14th Century crucifix, & numismatic collection.
Synagogue – Vicolo Marghera; 011-39-056-461-4230;
Parco Archeologico Città del Tufo (Vie Caves) – Sovana (from here walk 10 minutes (under 1 km) to archaeological park entrance or drive out of town, along narrow paved road following signs for Saturnia); 011-39-056-461-4074;; network of “roads” that radiate out from Pitigliano; seems to be infrastructure that links landscape to nearby towns, and incorporates religious sites and necropolis; perhaps specially designed channels to bring water from planes to valleys, strategic enemy-proof roads, ceremonial paths, or simple roads for transportation of goods and information; given width (hardly enough for cart) and fact that they were not paved, probably not for transporting vast amounts of goods.

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