TURKEY

(does not include Istanbul or Turkish Riviera)

TOURS
●Academic Arrangements Abroad – 1040 Avenue of Americas (between 39^th & 40^th Streets); 212-302-3104; arrangementsabroad.com; discover coastal Turkey, narrated by academics.
●Heritage Tours Private Travel – 121 West 27 Street, Suite 1201; 212-206-8400 or 800-378-4555; heritagetoursonline.com; operated by Joel Zack; can arrange tours throughout country; can focus on Jewish heritage.

ANKARA PROVINCE

ANKARA
Bars & Nightclubs
●Kitchenette – 22 Filistin Sokak; 011-90-0312-447-6748; kitchenette.com.tr; garden and terrace have clubby, well-heeled feel; nice courtyard as well as upstairs lounge.

Hotels
●Sheraton Ankara – Noktali Sokak (Kavaklidere); 011-90-0312-457-6000; luxurycollection.com/ankara.

Restaurants
●Balikcikoy – 3 Kirlangic Sokak; 011-90-0312-4280-04748; balikcikoy.com; popular seafood restaurant; lovely terrace dining.
●Rafine – 35 Iran Caddesi; 011-90-0312-465-0505; therafine.com; older crowd; beautifully arranged flowers and gentle jazz soundtrack; salads and light dishes.
●Trilye – Resit Galip Caddesi, 11 Hafta Sokak; 011-90-0312-447-1200; trilye.com.tr; Ankara institution; seafood specialities.

Shopping
●Bookish – 17 Filistin Sokak; 011-90-0312-447-4734; bookishstore.com; English-language books and foreign language magazines.

CAPPADOCIA

(historical region in Central Anatolia,

largely in Nevşehir, Kayseri, Kırşehir, Aksaray & Niğde Provinces)

GENERAL
Tour Companies
●Alan Turizm – Yunak Mahallesi 6 (Urgup, Nevsehir); 011-90-0384-341-4325; alanturizm.com; minibus tours with hiking and walking; ask for Halil and/or Brigitte Elalan.
●Argeus Tourism & Travel – Istiklal Caddesi 7 (Urgup, Nevsehir); 011-90-0384-341-4688; argues.com.tr; offers full-day tours for 2 (and longer).


AVANOS
Services
●Chez Galip – Firin Sokak 24; 011-90-0384-511-4240; chezgalip.com; tours.

Shopping
●Beikaya Potter Studio – Yukari Mahallesi; 011-90-0384-511-3464; beikaya.com/en; ceramics.
●Chez Galip – Yeni Mahallesi Jan Zakari Caddesi; 011-90-0384-511-5758 or 011-90-384-511-4240; chezgalip.com; ceramics.


DERINKUYU
Sights & Sites
●Underground City – 10km south of Kaymaklı; cappadociaturkey.net/derinkuyu_underground_city.htm; has large, cavernous rooms arrayed on seven levels. When you get all the way to the bottom, look up the ventilation shaft to see just how far down you are – claustrophobics, beware!.


GOREME
Hotels
●Anatolian Houses Hotel – Gaferli Mahallesi; 011-90-0384-271-2463; anatolianhouses.com; 19 suite complex above Goreme, featuring rooms, some built into “fairy chimneys,” with sunken tubs and Anatolian antiques.
●Cappadocia Cave Suites – Gafferli Mahallesi Unlu Sokak 19; 011-90-0384-271-2800; cappadociacavesuites.com; boutique-ish.

Restaurants
●A’laturca Restaurant – Goreme center; 011-90-0384-271-2882; alaturca.com.tr; classic Anatolian food in antique-decorated setting; setting better than food.


MUSTAFAPASA
Hotels
●Gul Konaklari – Sumer Caddesi 1; 011-90-0384-353-5486; rosemansions.com; boutique hotel in pair of restored, Greek mansions.

Restaurants
●Gul Konaklari – Sumer Caddesi 1; 011-90-0384-353-5486; rosemansions.com; outstanding traditional food in two dining rooms, Atina and Selanik.

Sights & Sites
●Fairy Chimney Rocks – Uchisar-Ürgüp-Avanos triangle valleys (between Urgup & Sahinefendi, around Cat (Nevsehir), in Sogani valley (Kayseri) & Selime (Aksaray); cappadociaexclusive.com/geological.html; interesting rock formations formed as result of tufa layer erosion.


ORTAHISAR
Hotels
●Hezen Cave Hotel – Esentepe Mahallesi Tahir Bey Sokak 87; 011-90-0384-343-3005; hezenhotel.com; modern boutique hotel in cave; beautiful and romantic.


UCHISAR
Restaurants
●Elai Restaurant – Eski Goreme Caddesi; 011-90-0384-219-3181; elairerestaurant; smart modern Ottoman and Turkish cuisine.


URGUP
Hotels
●Esbelli Evi – Esbelli Sokak 8; 011-90-0384-341-3395; esbelli.com; stylish boutique with cave suites and terraces overlooking valleys; includes breakfast.
●Sacred House – Karahandere Mahhallesi Barbaros Hayrettin Sokak 25; 011-90-0384-341-7102; sacred-house.com; among most highly regarded accommodations.
●Serinn House – Esbelli Sokak 36; 011-90-0384-341-6076; serinnhouse.com; 5-room boutique with cave and stone suites that offer wi-fi.

Restaurants
●Somine Restaurant – Cumhuriyet Meydani 9; 011-90-0384-341-8442; sominerestaurant.com; excellent flatbread pizzas (pide) and casseroles.

Shopping
●Galeri Yunak – Yunak Mahallesi; 011-90-0384-341-4325; galeriyunak.com; among region’s most respected weaving galleries.

DENIZIL PROVINCE

PAMUKKALE
Sights & Sites
●Hierapolis-Pamukkale – Pamukkale (3 trains run each day from Izmir to Denizli & overnight train leaves daily from Istanbul (Hydaerpasa Station) at 5:35pm, arriving in Denizli about 9-10am next morning); 011-90-0258-272-2077; whc.unesco.org/en/list/485; naturally terraced thermal springs dating as far back as 2^nd Century BCE; formed by calcite in water, hot springs look like stunning white clouds; ruins impressive, too.

ERZURUM PROVINCE

ERZURUM
Hotels
●Renaissance Polat Erzurum Hotel – Palandoken (Kayak Yolu Uzeri); 011-90-0442-232-0010; marriott.com/hotels.

EDIRNE PROVINCE

EDIRNE
Hotels
●Rustempasa Kervansaray Hotel – 57 Iki Kapili Han Caddesi; 011-90-0284-212-6191; edirnekervansarayhotel.com; edirnekervansarayhotel.com; historic building (Rustem Pasha Caravansery) designed by 16^th Century architect and engineer Sinan.

Sights & Sites
●Selimiye Camii Kulliye – Babademirtas (Mimar Sinan) Street; 011-90-0284-225-1120; selimiyemosque.net; UNESCO World Heritage Site; designed by Sinan.

KONYA PROVINCE

KONYA
Hotels
●Dedeman Konya Hotel – Isparta Beysehir Yolu (Selcuklu); 011-90-0332-221-6600; dedeman.com; luxury, 18 floor hotel with fitness center.
●Hotel Rumi – 5 Aziziye Mh. Durakfakih Sokak; 011-90-0332-353-1121; rumihotel.com; midnight blue walls surround central tower.

Restaurants
●Kosk Konya Mutfagi – 66 Menguc Caddesi; 011-90-0332-352-8547; koskkonyamutfagi.com; outdoor seating in trellised rose garden; known for baby okra soup.
●Sifa Lokantasi – 29 Mevlana Caddesi (main boulevard); 011-90-0332-352-0519; town’s most popular lunch spot.

Services
●Tarihi Mahkeme Hamami – Mevlana Caddesi; 011-90-0332-353-0093; fully operating bath since 15^th Century.

Shopping
●Surum – 2 Yeni Sille Caddesi (Selçuklu); 011-90-0332-257-0700; surumsekercisi.com; exquisite 1926 chocolate shop.

Sights & Sites
●Mevlana Museum – Karatay, Selimiye Camii Park (Mevlana Alani); 011-90-0332-351-1215; Rumi Shrine; turquoise-tiled, cylindrical tower.
●Shams ud-Din Shrine – off Hukumet Meydani Square; in lovely, unmarked mosque.
●Tile Museum – Alaeddin Meydani; 011-90-0332-351-1914; in 11^th Century structure.

MARDIN PROVINCE

MARDIN
Hotels
●Akadlar Café Aile – Teker Mahallesi, 51 Sokak 5; 011-90-0482-213-4741; atmospheric, friendly spot on lower level of beautifully restored house.
●Zinciriye Otel – Medrese Mahallesi 243, Sokak 13; 011-90-0482-212-4866; zinciriye.com; elegant rooms in restored mansion.

Sights & Sites
●Mardin Muzesi – Cumhuriyet Cadde; small but well-curated collection (archaeology and ethnology), along with contemporary artworks.
●Sakip Sabanci Mardin Kent Muzesi Dilet Sabanci Sanat Galeresi – 1 Cadde Cumhuriyet Alani Merkez; 011-90-0482-212-9396; city history and culture display; gallery downstairs displays contemporary art.

ORDU PROVINCE

UNYE
Restaurants
●Sehrazade – 397a Hukumet Caddesi; for grilled hamsi (sardines).

SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA

GAZIANTEP
Sights & Sites
●Zeugma Mosaic Museum – Istasyon Caddesi; 011-90-0342-324-8809; zeugmamosaicmuseum.blogspot.com; tremendous collection of Roman mosaics.


HATAY
Antakya
Sights & Sites
●Antakya Archaeological Museum – Cumhuriyet Meydani, Gunduz Caddesi 1; 011-90-0326-214-6167; antakyam.net; collections spread through 7 rooms and 2 halls, arranged according to where artifacts found; among most famous mosaics is “Megalopsychia Hunt Mosaic,” large mosaic pavement dating from 450-75 CE, discovered in Yakto village near Daphne, especially celebrated for its border, which depicts major landmarks and daily activities in ancient Antioch and Daphne; lovely garden with Roman period sarcophagi, building stones, water jars, and other objects, as well as mosaic from Church of Seleucia Pieria.